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There's another one on the car I'm selling, and it's connected to a roof and the other side.:)

So I would assume that it would flow water now that the pump actually resembles a pump. Make sure to flush the hell out of the block, and unfortunately with that much corrosion you might wind up with a leaky freeze plug.

Iv'e decided I don't need my spare power tailgate if your interested. It needs work but window part is fine.

Is that the bumper that you got from me? On the wagons I thought the wrap around part was shorter.

As for the PCV valve just clean it up with some carb cleaner so that the ball moves good and call it good as that's all it does is let the crankcase burp vapor. You can only do this with the older metal ones not the newer designed to be replaced plastic ones. If you have a washer to fit with...

I used a master from a early 70's full size wagon with disc brakes, 4bolt mount, and a large piston size. I paid $35 for it new. I looked in the back of the book at the master pic and diagrams till I found the correct mounting pattern, piston size, and for me disc up front and drum out back...

Might I suggest that you work on the master and lines before paint. Just in case you spill some fluid on your brand new paint. That and the fab work at the drivers side frame area where the brake T is.

Yes sir that's mine.

It's a /6. All you need to do is mount a gas can on the roof with a line feeding the carb, and drop a lit match in the carb while crankin it over and it'll run. I'm glad someone picked up that wagon. And I had my heart set on trying to talk him out of the luggage rack.

The fitting looks normal, there is supposed to be some movement to allow it to swivel. But of course if it leaks, then that's different. I think there is a o-ring inside there so quit yankin on it. As far a the valve covers go how deep are the scratches? are they clear coated? If they are...

You were only planning on running off the front carb correct? But maybe that throttle cable was meant for a Australian car where the pedal is on the other side of the car. Or he fibbed as that cable is for a tuna boat B or C body.

I have a poly-graphite kit from PST. I got one of the big kits, and they got it out to me quick. I noticed a difference in the ride as being a little bit more responsive, but that could also be from just having bushings where I'm supposed to and not having everything metal to metal. And also...

Have you thought about mounting the tach on the hump under the dash? Outta quick sight, and still usable?

Seal that flange real good as it will trap moisture, and cause the same problem again. In that type of area I would but weld it to not cause a water trap.

Hey MeMike the early a's used the same K-member for either the /6 or v8. That's something they should of stuck with in my opinion. The biggest deal for the swap is the center link, but with a rack I don't know.

Good luck on the drivers side exhaust manifold. There wasn't much room with the v8 one even though it squished down a hell of a lot. It's going to be nice with that FI and Od.

What? you've never heard of putting a sock up front to make it look bigger? Where have you been all these years?

Real nice clean wagon, and even with paint. Are the rear quarter window gaskets new? If so where can I get some, and how much were they? The gaskets on my dart wagon are short on life.