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I've had really good luck with the yellow top duralast batteries. They've lasted longer than any of the factory batteries that have came in my new vehicles and longer than the red optimas I had. Here in AZ where it's over 100 for about 4 months straight, my duralast batteries even outlast the...

Still need to turn the key on to unlock the steering wheel and turn on ignition. Might as well turn it that extra 1/4" to start.

Sounds like a ground issue. As for the parking lights not coming on with the headlights; on some models, they don't by design. Not sure if that is the case for your car or not.

You could just go with a CD changer and/or XM/Serius system. Then all you would need is the controllers up front and not have to worry about mounting (depending on the kind you buy). I agree with Abodybomber that it's hard to find a set of 6X9's that sound good. I guess if you ran a sub for...

Cool idea. I've always thought it would be cool to use the stick grip control from an F/A-18 as a shifter. All the switches on it could control stuff like NOS, line lock, or whatever you wanted them to control.

I agree with ^^. The cables that come with the kits aren't all that great. Just get a Summit or Jegs box, then run your own cables. The cable for welders works well- it's a lot more flexable and has less resistance than the ones that come with most of the kits.

You should be able to. A soldering iron is around $10 at Radio Shack, and the flux core solder is another couple bucks.

Ok, got it sorted out. Combination of problems; 1.) Ground wire to Volt Meter was on the wrong terminal, 2) Wire to fuel gauge came out of connector, and 3) Had the wrong sending unit in for the temp gauge, so it was reading way high. It's good now. Only problem is that I got a GM Fuel Gauge...

Ok, got that worked out, but now have another problem. The oil gauge seems to be reading high, but it's mechanical, so I don't see how that's possible. The gas gauge is pegged out at full, and the temp gauge shows close to 200 when the key is turned on. Should I have a voltage regulator or...

Is it the thick blue wire that's between the thick black one and thick gray one that are in the connector along the steering column, or is it the smaller blue one that was in the plug that plugs into the back of the stock instrument cluster?

Check the pick-up plate in the dist.

Let me make sure I have this straight: Connect the Black and red wires together, run the blue wire with white tracer to the gage, and the other lug on the gage is grounded. right?

Thanks!! I'll check it out tomorrow (if I can move my legs). Do you think I screwed anything up, like the gauge?

Then that's probably my problem. I hooked it up the same as the stock Alt gauge. How should it be hooked up then?

The gauge is hooked up. I knew from prior experience that it would have no power without that hooked up. I just thought of something...I don't think I hooked up the ground for the gauges, but IIRC, the Amp gauge doesn't get grounded, just gets the wires from the alt.

I made a custom cluster of Autometer Gauges for my duster, and now there's no power to anything. The volt meter is hooked up, so it's not that. I really haven't looked too deep into it, been busy and lazy. Any ideas?

I put the red top Optimas in 3 of my cars, including the Barracuda, one time about 8 years ago. None of them lasted any longer than an Autozone battery, in fact, the one in the Barracuda only lasted about a year before it stopped holding a charge. I'll never waste my money on them again...

The timing curve settings were a little confusing. I had crackedback and Brian at IMM Engine help in figuring out how to set it up. The rev limiter is a dial inside the cap, so you can easily change the rev limiter without the "pills" other rev limiters use.

I have one on my stroker. It seems like the rev limiter is a little low (ie, if you set it at 6500, it kicks in more like 6300). You can also set your timing curve on it. I like it and recommend it for the price, since you don't need to run a box with it.

I've seen where people have ran the wires for the headlights up inside the fender, going into the fender from the back by the door jamb.

I just found the instructions for Autometer. It screws on just as the stock cable does. Is it worth the extra $$ for an electric one?

So does the unit on the tranny hook in to where the speedo cable would screw in and still use the plastic gear, or does that whole housing get replaced and it reads from a gear in the tranny?

My stock speedo is a POS. First it didn't work, I got it working, but it reads 75 when I'm doing about 40. I'm going to change all the gages, and was wondering the advantages and disadvantages of electrical and mechanical speedo's. Also, where does the signal for an electrical one come from?

Thank you

Bump...how about the ground and routing?

I like scientific. It's the best way to make things make sense. Thank you.

I can see it both ways as far as routing inside or outside. Inside, if something does rub and you get a short, you risk catching the interior or the car on fire. If it's routed outside, it's less protected, but if something does rub through and short, it's probably not going to burn the whole...

I'm relocating my battery to the trunk ('74 Duster)and have a couple questions. 1. Where on the battery box should the vent tube go? High, low, or does it matter? 2. Ground; I know normally, you would ground to the frame, but since it's uni-body, couldn't I just ground it anywhere on the...

Bring the Mrs. along. It's a family event. I think Friday was the first night but I missed it. I usually take my '64 out. Might take my '74 Duster there later in the summer.

Nice '66 seabee. Plan on bringing it to Cruisin' Grand in Escondido, or is that too far north for you?