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If you're only lowering it an inch, you can do drop the front by turning down the torsion arms a little, and get some lowering blocks for the rear. If you use wheel spacers, you might need longer studs. Or you could get wheels with more negative offset. Get an alignment when you're done

If the control arm bushings are shot, it's almost impossible to get aligned right. Check those (upper and lower). edit: just reread and noticed it's been rebuilt. Double check it. Or maybe as mentioned, your alignment guy doesn't know about the eccentric (?) keys on the UCA's.

Depending on how much they "sag", you can "clock" them a notch to get it to sit higher. Kind of hard to explain, but you need to have the front jacked up so the LCA's hang totally free and pull the t bars out. Adjust the adjustment bolts all the way out and get the adjuster tab so it's all the...

How are the bushings on the control arms? If they are shot, it will sit low. I'm using /6 bars with my small block and have enough clearance. The original 318 bars were shot, and I couldn't get it to adjust high enough, but part of it was the bushings, which I replaced at the same time. I...

It should be slightly down at about 3 degrees. If you plan on drag racing, go down a little more to 4 or 5 degrees.

The ones he is selling don't go under the hood, they are fenderwell area similar to the ones in your pic, but they only go to the shock support, not all the way up to the front, and they wouldn't go all the way inside to tie into the cage, but I'm sure he could do that.

Looks good. Are you going to get BadDart's inner fender braces, too?

Can someone explain how unclamping the rear of the springs helps? Here are a few launch pics of mine. I had one launch last time out that hung them about 6-8" but didn't get pics.

I'm running SS springs on my Duster. The important thing to get them to hook is your pinion angle and since there is a little more arch on them, the angle of the rear hangers (shackles) might need to be adjusted. I had to put 7/16" solid aluminum spacers on the front perches to move the...

I talked to a guy at a local shop who rebuilds shocks. I was asking about some Rancho shocks for my truck, and he told me not to waste my money. They had Bilstiens for my truck for quite a bit cheaper than the Rancho's. He explained to me that most of the aftermarket shocks are actually...

Check the LCA bushings. I was having similar problems and found that the LCA and UCA bushings were shot. I replaced them and the strut rod bushings and that solved it.

They were energy suspension, but some were black and some were red. I don't think I bought the whole kit at once, so I just bought what was on hand. Since all the original rubber was totally destroyed, it made a huge difference.

If you use the grease that comes with the poly bushings, they don't squeek, at least the ones in my Duster haven't yet. I've also used white lithium grease on them in the past, and never had the squeek that everyone talks about. I think that only happens if they are installed dry. I haven't...

I moved mine back 1/2" by making 1/2" thick aluminum spacers for in front of the front spring hangars. With only 1/2", The stock studs to the leaf hangers were long enough. If I had gone any Thicker, I would have had to put longer studs on.

Might need to get a whole lower control arm. I don't think a lot of people separate them. There are plenty of other years that would work (for the block and bolt), but I don't know them off the top of my head. Hopefully someone can chime in. They shouldn't have been using an impact wrench...

I got the ones for my Barracuda at JC Whitney quite a while ago. I think I got the ones that were supposed to lift it about 2", but they lifted it more like 4", so I took one or 2 out of each side and ended up getting the stance I wanted.

I'll figure it out when I take the ps out. If it looks like it will need forced, I'll get an adapter.

Can you elaborate? Not a good idea, or what?

Thanks guys. It worked and didn't get sloppy. Seems like a good solid box. Now for an install question; someone told me that the steering column is collapsible and some can be pulled out when converting to manual steering so I don't need a new column or adapter. True or not?

Is the adjuster the one with the locknut and screwdriver slot?

I Just got a manual steering box for my Duster. There doesn't seem to be any slop, but as I turn it stop to stop, it seems to have some binding or stiffness in the middle of the turning range. Since this would be about where it would be with the wheels pointing straight. I'm not sure if it's...

Looks like maybe someone welded it there because the arm had so much adjustment done on it to get the alignment right that the rubber bumper was missing the arm, so the plate extends the surface for the bumper. That's going out on a limb, but I can't think of anything else it would be for.

I recently discovered that mine had been installed on the wrong sides. I replaced them for peace of mind

The poly strut rod bushings are a little tough to get seated properly. Might want to check it out, but I don't know if they would cause a clunk. Seems like it could.

I figured the passenger side would need cranked up more, too. My driver side is cranked about 3 threads from being tightened completely, but the passenger side is less than halfway in. Weird how that works, but pettyblue said his are the same way. I'm sure there's someone around who knows...

I've since replaced the strut rod bushings and LCA bushings. Gave the gas a little blast the other day, and there's still vibrations, but not as bad. I'm waiting on a reply from another forum member on a set of /6 torsion bars, and once I get them, I'll get it aligned. If it's still doing it...

I used 2X3 and they are similar to Bigslim's, but mine were a bit simpler, I just cut the top section out at the rear to slide it over the rear rail. I also notched the sides so I could bend them to the angle to fit snugly on the rear and then welded up the notches.

I saw somewhere that drag torsion bars have 90 lb/ft, and /6 bars have either 100 or 110 lb/ft, and I think the 110 rated ones were also in 318 cars (so probably what I have). Would a set of the /6 bars be good for drag racing? Engine is a small block, battery is in trunk.

If they are reversed, can I switch them back, or will I need to get another set?

Great. I hope the other one isn't a right hand one also.