Resurrecting old thread....Test fitted a friends factory "*614" shroud he had, on my rad....fit great, so I ordered a repro *614 shroud from the least expensive place I could find....The Mopar Shop. It arrived Friday and fits perfectly, well, with a bit of judicious grinding at the upper hose...
Alan....you didn't have to disassemble your car just to take those pics for me!...LOL!...but I appreciate it!!....:thankyou::thankyou::thankyou:
Also, a big :thankyou: to everyone else who contributed info to this thread. I'm sure it will be useful to other members as well. I'm going to go...
Exactly...If Alan confirms it fits, even with a bit of mods, I'll be going that way. I have been under the impression that '67 and '68/'69 were different enough that they wouldn't interchange.
Found this image on Google for a '68/69 shroud. Their top to bottom mount holes are the same as mine (33.5cm), but the side-to-side measurement of theirs is 1cm too small..my rad is 56cm
It cools fine, when driving around...but when sitting still, as in a long stop-light, the temp starts rising and won't go down until I'm moving again. A shroud will help the fan draw more air through the rad while sitting and idling.
Back story....been looking for a shroud for my '67 Dart, 273, and not having any luck mostly because they're made of "unobtainium" apparently, so my next brainstorm was to find '68 or '69 rad side brackets and have them installed on my '67 core and tanks. Now, they repro the shroud for '68/'69...
Also, make sure your "HEAT" or "TEMPERATURE" cable is adjusted properly. If its not completely shutting off the cold outside air, it will dilute your nice warm air with cold.
BTW, what does your temp gauge read....low or middle or...?
Whoever told you that is wrong. The thermo provides a restriction in the water flow, even when open, to allow the water to remain in the rad long enough to be cooled properly, before returning to the engine.
Aaron....I saw that thread while searching FABO for a solution. Looks good. I may do that if I can't find an orig. pin or "67Dartdroptop" 's idea doesn't work out. Not too woried about originality in there....nobody's gonna see it anyway!
Thanks.
That one appears to be a '65/66 unit with the metal pins. I'm not totally familiar with those, but after searching some threads, someone said they used the '66 metal pins in a later heater control unit. Mine has a spring clip on the center post that you remove and the whole thing falls to...
That would be a great idea! What do we need to do to make this happen?I've noticed several people over the years that have asked about this part and no-one seems to repro it. The pins have a bit of stress on them...will the parts that come out of your 3D printer take a bit of pressure?
Red.. thanks, but I broke the pin taking out the heater controls to get my dash bezel off....the cables are free. I've checked them. The heater worked fine before "I" started in on it.:banghead:
Do you have a link to your repair thread?
Well, I went and did it today....was removing my dash bezels for sending off to rechrome, and managed to break one of the heater control panel pins. They attach the control cables to the levers on the heater control panel. Anyone have any hanging around?...or are they repro'd somewhere? See pics...