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I gave mine away....................

Looks like a GM alt and bracket to me.

Hopefully you found the problems.

Float level(s), mechanical timing advance (too early?), vacuum leaks....that's my $0.02CDN...

Just disconnect the pump end of the line and I'm sure you'll be OK blowing it out. Just crank the engine when its all back together...fuel pump will prime itself eventually (30 secs or so)

Wow!!! I got something right! It's a Christmas miracle!! :lol:

I believe it's 3/32 Allen key. You turn clockwise to reduce and delay vac. advance, and counter-clockwise to increase and bring advance in earlier, I believe.

C'mon...at least the girl's cute.......

I'll give it go....1st, find "Top Dead Center"...that's where #1 piston is at the top of its stroke, and both valves are closed....this should also line up the damper mark with "0" on the scale. Now move the dizzy's rotor to be firing the #1 spark plug....insert the dizzy into the engine, pop on...

Oh, sorry...I thought your Q was about the last photo. The piece in the 1st 3 pics does look home-cooked.......

Appears to be some kind of adapter to use that cable kick-down assembly. Maybe check Lokar or Bouchillon's website.

Muffler bearings are loose..........!

Could be: 1. Choke staying on too long, or sticking on 2. Heat stove and piping removed 3. Carburetor icing. Slants and 273/318 2 bbls were bad for these.

Good plan.

I like him!!!:blob::blob::blob:

Looks can be deceiving....check it with a multimeter.

x2

Actually, according to Galen's books, it's a '66 vintage 225ci.

Well, obviously, it was cast on the 12th day of the 0 month of 1926!!!:blob::toothy7::blob:...or the 1st day of the 20th month of 1926,,,,or, finally, New Years Day, 2026!!! Sorry, couldn't resist. Actually, according to Galen's books, it's a '66 vintage 225ci.

Manufacturer Part Number: DIZF HA B 1A 20 Ford numbers

There you go, BC. Nice job. "Necessity is the mother of invention!" :-)

BC...could you weld a small nut (or possibly a short piece of pipe?...electrical conduit?) of appropriate size onto the short-shoulder screw you have, to give the curb idle screw a place to sit? Doesn't have to be super-robust as the area receives very little pressure. Just a thought.... I...

You're very welcome. Glad I could help! Take care.....

Here's a part of the factory service manual section for a BBS carb...Notice the large-head screw holding the fast idle cam...hope it helps...

This is a BBD carb, but the throttle linkage is very similar. There are 2 idle speed screws....1 works with the fast idle cam (which yours is correct), and the other is the curb (warm) idle. It bears on the end of the big screw that holds the fast idle cam. It looks as if yours has had that...

Is it the car in your avatar? If so, you're flushing alot of money, cause 4 doors' don't bring much at re-sale. I'd find a 2 dr to put all your goodies into.Best "bang-for-buck" Just my opinion....let the flaming begin!

'cept now the engine sits farther forward, requiring add'l mods. ...but , it's your car.

You're also going to have to massage the firewall to fit the rear-mounted V8 distributor, as V8's weren't available in the '63 A-Bodies. In '64, they redesigned the firewall slightly to compensate for this.

Yes. You may have noticed I mentioned too-fast of an idle as one of the causes, but advanced timing has nothing to do with it.

Unless you have the idle set way too high, its probably not the carb. Run-on or "dieselling" is usually caused by excess carbon buildup glowing in the combustion chambers , so when you turn off the ignition, these glowing bits will act like a spark and fire the excess fuel in the chambers...