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Replace that single master ASAP. Someone was nice enough to give me a set of front 10 inchers, and it made a huge difference, yet if your car stops really well currently, then just update the master cylinder to a safer unit. 67+ dual master cylinder (iron) or get a newer aluminum 4 bolt unit...

What mc is that from johhny?

Hey all, Looking to replace my front pads (kelsey hayes setup) and find ceramic as well as organic OEM material. Any recommendations on the two? I hear ceramic last longer but are harder on the rotors heat wise...

They are definitely not as common as normal drums, and might help with heat, from what I read. I have only ever seen them on 8 3/4's. Darth vader hats! Save em for someone with a restoration 8 3/4 jobber

They are not slider calipers, they are fixed, from what I was told. So yes the pads are locked into place

Are the balljoints in good shape? (tight) These do work with 14 inch wheels btw Either way, I paid 300 for my kelseys as they were in good shape and the car never stopped better (65 valiant) I would get em, as you can always resell later if need be, and they are fairly easy to rebuild if they...

Yes I have 4 posts currently.

I am contemplating getting an aluminum master, maybe one from an 80s diplomat (new unit). Would I need to change the pushrod or will the stock one work on an early a-body? thanks!

Do you need adjustable pushrod or will the stock length one work with the diplomat/ARengineering adapter?

Doesnt sound like a good idea...Might have to do with some cars being lug-centric and some hub-centric

anyone running a newer aluminum unit and happy with it? mine is also from master power

I put a late sixties disc brake master in my 65 and its huge, even though its new What is everyone else running for a disc/drum master cylinder? Im considering going aluminum

bumnround-I know johhnydart posted some pics of his and they look super nice-somewhere on this site, and they are most likely KH rebuilt by raybestos as I doubt they would repop something like this but you never know...

Here is the site, he listed it on moparts http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors_plain.php?vtype=1&vmake=43187&vmodel=51637&vyear=51691&vdetail=51692&cPath=1_43187_51637_51691_51692_51693&dv=100509&ad=direct 2 rotors for $76 plus free shipping... If it ends in 63005 its probably a wagner...

Route the brake line coming from the rear of the car, to the front bowl the master cylinderer I used a union for the front brakes which then runs to the rear bowl of the master cylinder Adjustable prop valve I mounted on the inner fender, and can adjust my rear brake bias as much as I want Cant...

brake fluid crossover tubes can be had from finelines, etc for about 20 dollars for the complete kit (both sides)

Ta-Da! http://store.r1concepts.com/Items/Item.aspx?sck=58966368&SKU=emf03080%20-%20121.63005&caSKU=emf03080%20-%20121.63005&caTitle=DODGE%20DART%20DEMON%2067-69%20Brake%20Rotors%20-%20E-Line%20-%20Front

Well im almost positive its the drum...cuz i switched the bad drum from the left to the right...and it does it on the other side front end is completely rebuilt with brand new moog parts Its odd though...when I swapped the bad drum with another used one from a local mopar guy..it does the same...

Ok...need some help..I broke off the little weight on one of my front drums so my after market rim would fit...yet this caused a clunk when i pressed on the brakes...yet they worked So i switched the drum to the other side...and it does it on whatevevr side that drum is on! So...i bought a...