Search results for query: *

nope thats the job of a hot wrench and an idiot!

won't work on none threaded shaft

pitting? ha here in canada I've seen T bars with 1/8" pit marks and deeper and never seen them snap, there very high tensile steel

or take the spring pack back out and have a spring shop take some of the arch out of the springs

best bet is to take an impact gun out and take those stupid air shocks off and make sure you cut them in half so someone else don't make the mistake of using them, there junk no good for anything if your really persistent on keeping them it should have a schraeder valve hooked to it, and use a...

if its solid enough to bend just bend it out of the way to the direction you need it, save yourself $40+

go buy a set for LA dakota, mopar conversion parts are way too rich for most!

a rack requires quite abit more pressure, without the pressure the belt will chatter at low speeds and can even stop the pump mopar mucle had an article for lowering the pressure by installing (thicker?) shims in the pump. my guess is you could install thinner shims for higher pressures also...

alterKation is just fine

just pay an old time alignment guy who knows mopars to do it, then its done and if it scuffs tires its there fault not yours

I've never rebuilt mine, seals were leaking, flushed it and replaced with normal dextron III ATF and no more leaks from seals

been running it for over 10 years in my truck, and not an issue. also the plow truck uses ATF to lift the blade, guess i should drain that to? lol:fart:

I've been using nothing but ATF since I've started driving, works perfect and less chance of a leak

trial and error won't fix anything, the anwser is here; I think BillGrissom hit the nail on the head with the correct anwser. replacing belts and trying it again will just lead to another belt broke!

its illegal for shops to plug tires around here now, what they use is the best of both worlds, a patch plug

could have been in an accident that wasen't reported

take it to a body shop and have them take a porta-power to it and bend it back into shape

okay let me rephrase that; if you put 40 or so PSI in the shocks and it lifts the car a couple inches you don't think there is 300-400 pounds or more riding on the upper shock mounts? cars that were made to handle weight on the upper shock mounts had big mounts on the top and something called a...

nothing appears stock there, theres tubes running under the car looks like a tubular K frame

oil them with something like vegtable oil as not to deteriorate the bushing

air shocks suck and our cars are not meant to have the weight of the car sitting on the shock mounts

alot of 1988 to 1993 trucks had front sway bars

there should be at the very least a 1/4" thick plate bent and welded to the upper crossmember

search the web for lowering springs, there a coil or so shorter then normal ones spring shops usually specialize in leaf springs but its worth a shot

buy lowering springs and the proper shocks, the ride will be the same or better then you have now if you try and lower it redneck style it won't handle good at all and may or maynot get the stance you want; it could sag worse after awhile and be too low

incorrect, spring rate is different for a 6 cylinder to 8 cylinder engine. don't believe me? put a v8 in where a slant came out of and watch it drop! also the springs differ from D-100 to 150 and 250/350 there all of different size and spring rate on a side note don't put slant springs in...

tack the mounts in place enough to hold the engine, then put it on a trailer (without starting it) and go get it professionally welded

thats a slant 6 K frame; I can tell by the raised mount on the Left (drivers side)

the problem is if your using an impact on a fixed nut you best not be the one taking it back apart, it almost always beats the crap out of them especially if they have been there for 30-40 years

if your door is sagging its most likely the door hinges need new bushings and pins