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why bore it any more than you absolutely have too. Leave as much in those cylinders as you can, uless you have a good supply of blocks a cheap good machinist. Just my 2 cents.

Keith black & wallaceracing.com have good compression calculators

punch your numbers into one of several compression calculators available on the net & you will have your number. You should have no problem running 10:1 with aluminum heads & premium fuel. You can actually run higher depending on camshaft. What are your plans for camshaft. If you don't have one...

the 484 cam will give you a slight lopey sound but is a geat cam as I have used several of them in different engines & it is very drivable on the street. If the engine is dynoed be sure to get a printout to see where your powerband is & you may want a smaller stall converter for street-strip. as...

The 484 lift cam version will have enough vacuum. I would go with that one

I would puth the headers in place & leave them loose as it will give you a little more leway putting the transmission in

If you are planning to buy heads see if you can find a nice set of cast iron W2's. Will make more power than edelbrocks. If you must have needle bearng rockers, harland sharpe's, jessel, or T&D are the only ones out there that will last. 3 or my frineds have 416 motors ranging from 556 hp...

Don;t forget to check your radiator cap. needs to be able to built pressure to keep from boiling also. Just a thought that I didn;t see mentioned above. I do agrre with getting a good gauge. There is no factory gauge out threre that I would trust. Good luck!