Hey all you smart 340 engine guys...

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jimharvard

jimharvard

JimHarvard
FABO Gold Member
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ok..here's the deal. i bought a very nice '68 340 block that has been all cleaned up and machined (it's pictured on my gallery.. jimharvard). can you guys give me some advice:

1. will a modern stroker rotating assembly work in a '68 block with no modification .... do you have a good brand/kit to recommend?

2. any problems with running alluminum needle bearing rockers?

3. which heads would be best with a stroker assembly.. original "X" or edelbrock alluminum?

4. any suggestions on the best manifold ... i was thinking a six pack setup but a 750 double pump holley would be fine also...

5. i'm an old Hooker Headers fan (from my high school days long ago...) are there any other "modern" brands that make more hp?

as always... FABO tech forums have the smartest guys on the web... let me know what you think..

jim coster, pittsburgh
 
I would go with steel rollers over aluminum, and eddy heads, with TTI headers. Hooker's quality is terrible, and the TTI's fit way better.(I have Hookers....mine suck!)If you are going to stroke, a 360 block would have been better, but you can buy a kit for the 340. The six pack would be way cool on this engine. Hopefully, someone smarter than me will reply for you.

Billy's Motor (Small).JPG
 
p.m. me i'll give you a combination for a nice 416 stroker..as for 360's being better not if your going to stroke em'..:mrgreen:
 
I'm with the 340 being better to stroke. But good machine work will have everything live long, abuse aside. He he he.

There is a slight clearancing issue with big rod ends. I'm not to sure, but I thikn stock stuff clears. If it doesn't, the notch is small and the machinest can do it after lunch without a problem.

Do not run needle bearing rockers.

Edelbrocks are better OOTB (Should be at least) They'll port out close to each other.
The iron will work great on a lower compresion engine. Heat is retained, power is retained.

For the street, a Dual plane like a RPM, Air strike etc....
Very hot street, a M-1 or Victor

Spend the money on tti's. They'll do best.
I'd use the Hooker super comp big tubes for beastly power up top. For a race purpose, they may be worth the head expolding in fitment.
 
Honestly In my opinion if you are going to stroke it get a 360. Your 68 340 block has more value out side of your plan for it. Many guys are looking for date coded blocks for their factory projects.

Take some pics, get the date codes, and casting numbers then stick it on ebay. It will help fund a nice 360 stroker build.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Your 68 340 block has more value out side of your plan for it. Many guys are looking for date coded blocks for their factory projects.

Take some pics, get the date codes, and casting numbers then stick it on eBay. It will help fund a nice 360 stroker build.
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Yeah, I was talking to a guy a few weeks back at a car show here that was looking for a 68 340 block. I had a thread started that he was looking for one. I couple guys replied to it but I don't know how that went. I have his Email if you might be interested and if he's still looking. He's got a 68 GTS.....that he wanted a 68 motor for.
 
I need to be schooled here guys. Why would you take a high revving zinger, and make a stroker out of it? Strokers are for big torque, big cubes. Wouldn't you want all the cubes you can get, to really maximize the potential? I'm not the smartest guy on this site, but common sense seems to favor the bigger block. Maybe I am missing some facts..does a 340 have a larger bore than a 360? Seems the steel crank is a non issues with a stroker, because you will be using a new kit.Personally, I'd NEVER buy Hookers after they screwed me on mine. Quality has gone WAY down.
 
If you are planning to buy heads see if you can find a nice set of cast iron
W2's. Will make more power than edelbrocks. If you must have needle bearng rockers, harland sharpe's, jessel, or T&D are the only ones out there that will last. 3 or my frineds have 416 motors ranging from 556 hp (with edelbock heads) 580 (ported cast iron w2's) & 620 hp (ported indy heads) TTI headers are also worth the money as we picked up 20 hp on the dyno over hooker supercomps ( they fit better than hookers also) All 3 engines are pump gas motors & are driven on the street a few times a week.
 
I'm currently selling my W2 top end. They are the long valve econo heads, 2.02x1.6 valves, comp beehive springs, manley 11/32 valves, fully ported, edelbrock victor intake, smith bros. 3/8 pushrods, MP 1.6 rocker assembly, and I have a new comp solid flattappet cam (264-264 @.050) that would work well with that stroker.
I also sell Scat rotating assemblies. My web address is www.immengines.com.
I'm asking $2500.00 for the whole top end.
Brian
[email protected]
 
I run jesel rocker arms in my daily driver for almost two years now with no problems. Norris also makes great rocker arms and I would put those on before harland sharps. I've only seen stroker kits with chevy rod journals that didn't need the block clearanced, all the rest have needed it but there is always a chance you don't need to. As for heads that just depends on how much you want to spend. Edelbrocks are the cheapest because they are assembled and don't need different headers, rocker arms or manifolds. I like the W2s or large port commandos but the price is alot more if your not starting from scratch. You can get a rotating assembly from just about anybody these days but the cheap ones are forged in and sometimes machined in china and have quality issues. No matter what you buy I would have EVERYTHING checked by your machine shop before putting it together. Good luck on your build.
 
street demon said:
I've only seen stroker kits with chevy rod journals that didn't need the block clearanced, all the rest have needed it but there is always a chance you don't need to. As for heads that just depends on how much you want to spend. Edelbrocks are the cheapest because they are assembled and don't need different headers, rocker arms or manifolds. I like the W2s or large port commandos but the price is alot more if your not starting from scratch. You can get a rotating assembly from just about anybody these days but the cheap ones are forged in and sometimes machined in china and have quality issues. No matter what you buy I would have EVERYTHING checked by your machine shop before putting it together. Good luck on your build.
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Couldnt have said it better.
 
wow... well... once again... FABO rules when it comes to tech talk... you guys are awsome....

a little voice in my head keeps telling me not to abuse this pristine "6-18-68" 340 block that i just dragged from california to pittsburgh on roadway express. one 6k missed power shift and that museum piece might turn into a boat anchor. i was trying to recreate the car i had in high school... 340, 4 speed, factory manual cam, high rise, double pump holley, hooker headers, 391 gears. i've got a good car to start with being a real s car... but the more i think about it... if i really recreate the original '68 i had, it may just be too valuable to go out and thrash the way i did 35 years ago. the 69 big block car presents the same problem. maybe i ought to just restore the 68 and 69 back to stock and buy a third one (slant 6 fastback from a back yard) to just build then destroy. i really take this collector stuff seriously and want to act responsible with these old cars that are .... in many ways ... fading away like WWII Marines.

you guys have given me a lot to think about ... thanks again..
jim coster, pittsburgh
 
street demon said:
I run jesel rocker arms in my daily driver for almost two years now with no problems. Norris also makes great rocker arms and I would put those on before harland sharps. I've only seen stroker kits with chevy rod journals that didn't need the block clearanced, all the rest have needed it but there is always a chance you don't need to. As for heads that just depends on how much you want to spend. Edelbrocks are the cheapest because they are assembled and don't need different headers, rocker arms or manifolds. I like the W2s or large port commandos but the price is alot more if your not starting from scratch. You can get a rotating assembly from just about anybody these days but the cheap ones are forged in and sometimes machined in china and have quality issues. No matter what you buy I would have EVERYTHING checked by your machine shop before putting it together. Good luck on your build.
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I agree with Moper.
Very very well worded. Excellent post!
 
69383gts4spd said:
If you are planning to buy heads see if you can find a nice set of cast iron
W2's. Will make more power than edelbrocks. If you must have needle bearng rockers, harland sharpe's, jessel, or T&D are the only ones out there that will last. 3 or my frineds have 416 motors ranging from 556 hp (with edelbock heads) 580 (ported cast iron w2's) & 620 hp (ported indy heads) TTI headers are also worth the money as we picked up 20 hp on the dyno over hooker supercomps ( they fit better than hookers also) All 3 engines are pump gas motors & are driven on the street a few times a week.
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1 question, what tube size was the Hooker Super Comps?

Otherwise, yet another very good post. The high end (Read...$$$$) rockers would be fine for use. I said no in a errorish way. Why? Because many people look at cheap $100 roller rockers with needles and alllmost allllways come back with a destroyed engine. You never mentioned which brand of rocker.

Quality...Pay more now instead of alot later when your doing it twice.

W-2's are nice heads. I myself would like to spend some money on LP Comandos myself.
 
Your right, once stroked...........

If one is super serious about racing one, bearing size has a play. But in the street, it's small.....
Patatoe, Patotoe
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LOL
 
I don't think 99.9% of racers would even see the difference in bearing size.

You like that spelling don't you. I took 6 years of High school English to learn that.
 
He he he, yea, made me giggle out loud. Bearing size has an effect, but you'll never feel it with the butt dyno. LOL.
It's an "All out" thing.
 
as always... very entertaining and informative stuff....

hey .. i don't have any kids but me and "the babe" do have a house full of animals... i put one of the chinchillas pics on my gallery... he's not getting keys to either of the cuda's when he turns 16...:0(

jimharvard
 
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