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why not get one that matches what came off the donor car?

they make a tool for that. I believe you can get it at Napa. Here is a link on Amazon to one like mine...

cool, glad you were able to get it fixed!

I had a DeSoto do that, one of my front wheel cylinders would suck air back in past the seal... it never leaked fluid out, just sucked air in. I would pump the brake pedal once with the bleeder open and then close the bleeder and they were fine all day, let it sit overnight, and had to do the...

I run dot 3 in my daily drivers... if it is going to sit over the winter, I wold put silicone fluid in it.

....the race is really tight i even tried to hit it out to replace it with the new one....but the old ones are stuck in pretty good....so i didnt feel any grooves or ruffness so i left the old ones in and put new bearings.... umm if you are replacing a bearing ALWAYS replace the race along with...

air will not normally do that, air in lines normally gives you a mushy or no pedal and then as you pump it, you will get a firmer pedal... then take your foot off for a minute, and no pedal again. This sounds like master cylinder or a leak somewhere.

as was said above, sounds like air in the lines somewhere. first bleed master cyl, then each wheel starting at the wheel with the longest brake line working to the shortest. IF you pump it a bunch, do you get a little pedal? Normally if master cyl is bad, it will be leaking.

just a thought, with both ends of the long front to back line disconnected, can you blow air through it? Or is it possible a piece of something got stuck in the proportioning valve?

I have seen some older drums riveted onto the hub.. worked fine with stock steel wheels (had a recess in the back of them) but on my aluminum slots without the recess machined in the back, the wheel would not sit flat against it. I ground the heads off the rivets and fixed it. As was suggested...

if you have several sets of LBP still on cars, I'd go that route in a heartbeat. I paid 250 for my setup a couple years ago... glad I did, it stops much better!

not all the 10" studs are RHT. My 69 had 10" drums and LHT on the left side.. I was going to keep it stock as long as possible too till I took it into the local tire store, and told them it was LHT on the driver side... I was assured no problem... they came in a bit later and told me they broke...

what redfish said X2... you should not bend the flange if you just hit the stud and support the flange. That would be better than just whacking it with no support.

as a side note, on the upper ball joints, the larger ones (newer style) are about 1/2 the price as the smaller ones....

I recently did that swap on my 69 barracuda. Unbolt the 2 bolts from the inside of the upper control arm, separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, disconnect the rubber brake hose where it connects to the steel one. You need all of the parts that are now loose. (do not need the...

it sounds like you are replacing the rubber hose? If so, have you tried heating up the siezed pieces a bit? sometimes a bit of heat does wonders.

When I converted my 69 barracuda, I also found that the lower ball joints were different and I needed to use the newer ones that matched the spindles. So, when you get the parts off the donor car, get the lower ball joints as well so you get the proper bolts that hold the bottom of the spindle...