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I used the Autometer setup, pretty easy swap. I had most if thr gauges from previous vehicles so the cost wasn't too bad. Prior to that one I had found a gauge panel that didn't have holes in it and made one with the speedo centered, I had the tach mounted on the dash at the time.

Did you get a complete package with the gauges too? I bought just the panel, since I had most of the gauges laying around already. Maybe that's why I didn't get any.

I've got one in mine, I used Ultra Lite guages that I had laying for it. No complaints. It doesn't come with provisions for turn signals or high beam indicator, so you'd have to get some lights for those. Edited to add a pic, not the best pic, but you can see the indicators I used.

My console top plate was in rough shape, so I didn't mind cutting some holes in it.

Same here too, Some of th dimensions weren't making sense on my floor, so I just worked backwards to figure it out. Put the shifter in first and then found where the console needed to be and went from there.

Looks good, this is an awesome project!

Well, the speed nut or Pal nuts my local Ace had didn't fit. #6 was too small and #8 was too big. I ended up grabbing some #8 spring nuts and they fit perfect. Thanks for the help!

It's an old top plate, most of the studs are there, I think 2 are broken. I'll take it with me when I go look for some, my local Ace has a great selection of stuff like that. Thanks for the offer Grampscamp, I'll see what I can find locally. If I strike out I may take you up on it. I'm...

That's a good idea. My earlier reply was supposed to say 1/8" diameter, which I believe is a #6 screw.

I measured the studs, looks like 1/8" speed nuts should work.

Is that what they are? Awesome, easy enough, I'll grab a box of them, thanks!

I'm looking for the nuts needed to secure the console top plate to the console base. I tried some random small hardware I had on hand and nothing fit. Are these something I can get at a hardware store, or am I out of luck? I don't need factory original ones, just something that works.

You could also just click the "WATCH" button at the top of the thread. Only mentioning it in case you didn't know. :thumbsup:

A console with a bench seat? How does that work?

That's not bad at all, thanks.

They appear to fit pretty good, but can you still see out of the back window? They look really tall. How does the top of the seat compare to the height of the package tray?

My Ultra Lite seties gauge has the correct ohms. It's been working with the stock sender for close to a decade.

Thanks, I might look into those. I have the Alpine power-packed too, so it's pushing 50 watts x 4 channels, I had a buddy that works at Alpine in speaker development spec all the components and speakers for me, but I'm underwhelmed with the 6x9s.

Nice clean install! How the bass response from those speakers? I went with a set of Alpines and there is less bass than I was expecting. I'm not looking for much, but more than my phone puts out would be nice. Lol.

I'll be doing this soon as well, my car has a manual trans tunnel in it, so I don't have the auto shifter for measurement references, does anybody have the measurements to one of the brackets from the 4 speed hole, or off the firewall or floor under the back seat?

I run a Grant wheel similar to the Momo that you posted, it has a soft feel to it. I replaced a woodgrain Grant wheel that was already installed, so it was a direct swap, but I think you'd just need their basic install kit.

I made a 3d printed adapter to mount 3.5" speakers to that defroster duct. I have the two 3.5" speakers in the dash, two 5 1/4" in the front doors and two two way 6x9's in the rear deck. It's powered by a Bluetooth alpine head unit and an Alpine Power Pack to get 50 watts RMS per channel...

I bought a beat up stock one for cheap and made a new top plate with some cup holders.

I cant help you with the brackets, I didnt use the factory ones. But I just have it attached in the front and the very back and it seems fine. I did have to shim the shifter up about an inch off the tunnel to get the stick high enough to not hit the opening when all the way forward or rearward.

I used the standard B&M quicksilver one. My car didn't have a console, so I bought a junk one and put a piece of aluminum on it for the top plate. The shifter hole is in the same one as stock, but I don't know if the console is in the correct location, I just mounted it where everything fit...

I'm pretty sure my original IP is the same as yours. But as an FYI, that panel can be found for $215-250ish and standard sized gauges fit in case you wanted a different style than what they offered as a package. Painless Wiring sells a gauge wiring kit, but I'm not sure if the layout fits...

I have that IP installed in my Duster, everything fit perfectly. My factory dash was the same as yours. I bought the panel from Autometer. I got it on ebay from a bout $220, and then put my own gauges in it. I wish they were a little fancier looking though.

I used the Autometer setup, I had most of the gauges from other projects anyway.

Made my own top plate

That would be great if you could!