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If the backing plates are off a 1973 and up 7-1/4 with Large bolt pattern they will(and if you are upgrading the LBP). The axle tubes taper from 2.5 up to 3" at the ends where the backing plates bolt on. When I installed a 8-3/4 to replace my 7-1/4 on my Duster I re-used the 7-1/4 backing plates...

I am not certain, but I always thought the pinion/yoke attachment on 7.25 was course splined?

Did everything work out ok with the gears in the car? I am going through this exact same thing right now. This thread has some good info!!

Both cases are pretty strong. The 742 has a larger rear pinion bearing than the 489, and doesnt require a crush sleeve (the 489 can use a solid spacer and shims though if needed). Some low cost ring and pinion sets are not made for more than street use, and cannot take as much racing abuse. If...

Some searching on Rockauto.com shows that indeed the 742 case uses a different front bearing than the 741 and most likely the 489.

Additional question? Do all cases (489,742,741) share the same "front" pinion bearing? I know the rear bearings vary in the different third-member cases.

It appears the pinion nut is to spec on the yoke. Do the front pinion bearings go bad easily? I suspect the yoke may have hit the inside on the shipping crate at some point possibly.

I got the third-member out of my Duster, the pinion bearing near the ring gear is loose in the race. I can move it a little forward back side to side just by moving the yoke up and down. It looks like the nut for the yoke is not torqued enough, as there is no thread from the pinion showing...

I think I am just going to try to return it for a refund. There is alot of play in the yoke/pinion, I can move it up and down side to side by hand. This cannot be a good thing?

I bought what was suppose to be a rebuilt 742 case 8-3/4 third member. Suppose to have new bearings, rebuilt clutch suregrip and new yukon 3.55 gears. The seller said he bought it rebuilt and it sat for a year and never used it, then sold it to me. Anyways, I bolted it in this weekend, right...

My Yukons with green bearings fit fine into my old open diff 741. I did not have to remove the thrust spacer things.

I use Type F in my 727. I also use the type F B&M trick-shift stuff (its blue). Works great.

This may help with a picture of kickdown linkage: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=269752&postcount=10 Its also known as throttle pressure linkage. Depending on what one you have connected to the carb and tranny, its adjusted different ways.

Is the kickdown adjusted to the right setting? I have a TCI sizzler, and had almost too late and hard of shifts with the factory kickdown setting. I had to back it off a little to get the shifts sooner and a touch softer. No kickdown at all may cause it to be really mushy.

I think I got it going right. Indeed Kickdown is a pain. I made several adjustments, I ended up taking the spring off to allow the adjustment of the rod as much as possible, then test drove the car, shifts came very quickly (like 25 into third). Stopped, adjusted the rod some more (moving the...

I tried the first method (not 100% sure I did it right) had someone hold wide open throttle and then tightened the bolt. This I think applied too much pressure maybe? Took the car a block, wouldnt go out of 1st, so i came back. Was I suppose to remove the spring thats in front of the small bolt...

Thanks for the quick reply's!! I will try both methods after work Wed. . By backing off the adjustment, do you mean compressing the spring more, or letting it expand more on the rod at the kickdown lever? At the moment, I think I have the long spring compressed as much as can be done , unless...

I installed a TCI sizzler 727 in my duster. The question I have is, how late should third gear apply when you have the kickdown adjusted properly? I installed a 2500rpm stall also, 1st and 2nd gear feel great and shift nice. Right now, around town I dont even get into third gear as it is...

Here is a pic of the B&M external balanced flex I just put on my 360 for a 727 I bolted up about two weeks ago. Hope this helps somewhat. The larger flat part of the plate is closer to the block. Mine said in small stamped letters (hard to see almost) "engine side" on the side that goes toward...

It almost sounds like your in between gears.

I got my tci in, havent driven it yet, as I need to finish running the cooler lines ect. Headers sure make it hard though. I am going to cross my fingers and hope it works later this week. Any good news Swingerman?

Thats a bummer about the problems with the new tranny. I will be following this thread, as I also bought a tci 727 a couple weeks ago, but am going to install it this weekend. Is it common to have problems with tci transmissions?

Thats pic's funny.