Doesn't want to go...

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SwingerMan

SwingerMan

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Got my new TCI 727 install completed and took the car around the block on its maiden voyage last night. It seems like its not wanting to go in drive the car revs but it accelerates slowly. The kickdown was adjusted per the FCM using a drill bit to lock it into place. Could not having enough TV pressure casue this? The torque converter is also new (2400-2800 stall). I thought about lengthening the rod at the carb to see if it would help but if something is wrong I don't want to take the chance of damaging the new tranny. I am going to give TCI a call Monday but I figured I would pick you guy's brains also.

Thanks
 
Sorry but I gotto ask to make sure you've rechecked the oil level and it's fine right, baring that I wouldn't touch anything more till you've talked to TCI. Warranty issue.

Terry
 
TCI,is not known for quality products..good luck with it...
 
Are you sure the linkage is adjusted correctly and it's fully engaging each gear? I know from experience that the symtom you explain can happen from slightly misadjusted linkage.
 
I am going to double check the linkage again tomorrow but I shifted the lever at the trans to each gear and matched it with the shift rod to the column. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Your throttle pressure valve (kickdown) adjustment won't cause this. Check the shift linkage like 63dartman said. If it's not that I hate to say it but you got a lemon. It could be something as simple as they put the valve body together wrong which would only mean you have to drop the valve body and fix it or it could be as bad as they screwed up a seal (or left one out) in one of the clutch packs.

Do first and second gear work right and the problem is only in 3rd gear or does it slip in all forward gears? How about reverse?

I have read quite a few posts where TCI transmissions were problems.
 
I just tried it in drive and I want to wait until I talk to them tomorrow before I try anything else. The tranny was tested before it was shipped and I have the dyno sheet it would be the pits if its the trans itself. Hopefully I will have some answers on it soon I am itching to get her back on the road! Anyone know if a bad converter would cause this? It's new but I was thinking maybe it could be defective.
 
You may know this but I'll mention it anyway. Are you checking the trans. fluid in neutral or park? You need to check it in neutral. If checked in park it'll read full but it's really not anywhere close to full.
 
readjust the kickdown rod by lengthening it like you were going to do until it works correctly. it's not getting enough line pressure to fully engauge 3rd. you won't hurt your new trans by doing this.
 
The service manual will state "poke a drill bit in this hole" which really only serves as a helper to keep parts from moving while adjusting from trans up.
The manual doesn't say "Remove that drill bit now." before completing the adjustments from there forward. The novice may not read between the lines.
 
bOb shingler said:
readjust the kickdown rod by lengthening it like you were going to do until it works correctly. it's not getting enough line pressure to fully engauge 3rd. you won't hurt your new trans by doing this.
Click to expand...

Sorry Bob but I respectfully disagree. There is no way the throttle pressure (kickdown) linkage can cause the trans to slip like he's describing. The throttle pressure valve doesn't regulate line pressure but instead works in conjunction with governor pressure to determine shift timing. You can totally unhook the throttle pressure linkage and it will still shift through all gears. It will shift at very low speeds and possibly flare up when going into 3rd gear but it will shift into all gears. Once in 3rd it won't slip.
 
TCI shipped me a bb 727 that had nothing but park and neutral, was gone 6 months to be warientied. total crap inc.
 
Back When I Was In High School I Was Trying To Rebuild Auto Transmissions (unsuccessfully I Might Add) Anyway The Last One I Built Worked Perfect Except It Would Not Shift Into 3rd. I Took It To A Trans Repair Friend Of Mine And We Took It Apart And Found That I Had Forgotten To Put The Plastic Washer Between The Nput Shaft And The Output Shaft This Left A Pressure Leak So It Wouldnt Engage The 3rd Gear ... Or So Im Told .. We Put The Washer In And It Has Been Running Great Ever Since (approx 14 Yrs Now)
So I Dont Know If Your Trans Has Ever Had 3rd In Which Case This Is Irrelevant .. But If Not It Was Probably Just An Oversight When Assembled...
Just My 2 Cents Hope It Helps..
 
440SCOUT said:
Back When I Was In High School I Was Trying To Rebuild Auto Transmissions (unsuccessfully I Might Add) Anyway The Last One I Built Worked Perfect Except It Would Not Shift Into 3rd. I Took It To A Trans Repair Friend Of Mine And We Took It Apart And Found That I Had Forgotten To Put The Plastic Washer Between The Nput Shaft And The Output Shaft This Left A Pressure Leak So It Wouldnt Engage The 3rd Gear ... Or So Im Told .. We Put The Washer In And It Has Been Running Great Ever Since (approx 14 Yrs Now)
So I Dont Know If Your Trans Has Ever Had 3rd In Which Case This Is Irrelevant .. But If Not It Was Probably Just An Oversight When Assembled...
Just My 2 Cents Hope It Helps..
Click to expand...

This remark is not intended at you Scout because I know back then you were a high school student and still learning but this applies towards a professional mechanic.

Anybody professional who leaves out a part like that should be scourged.

The end play should always be checked and adjusted accordingly. A part like the missing washer between the input/output shaft would cause excessive slop in the assembly so it should be caught before the trans is final assembled. Also air pressure checks should be performed before the valve body is installed so you will see if all the clutch packs and servos work correctly. If these measures are followed the chance of a failure is nearly zip.
 
Thats a bummer about the problems with the new tranny. I will be following this thread, as I also bought a tci 727 a couple weeks ago, but am going to install it this weekend. Is it common to have problems with tci transmissions?
 
Thanks for all the insight guys I will finally have some time tomorrow to see if I can get this figured out. I will keep you posted.
 
fishy68 said:
This remark is not intended at you Scout because I know back then you were a high school student and still learning but this applies towards a professional mechanic.

Anybody professional who leaves out a part like that should be scourged.

The end play should always be checked and adjusted accordingly. A part like the missing washer between the input/output shaft would cause excessive slop in the assembly so it should be caught before the trans is final assembled. Also air pressure checks should be performed before the valve body is installed so you will see if all the clutch packs and servos work correctly. If these measures are followed the chance of a failure is nearly zip.
Click to expand...
I AGREE BUT WOULD NOT DISCOUNT THIS AS A POSSIBILITY....
 
I got my tci in, havent driven it yet, as I need to finish running the cooler lines ect. Headers sure make it hard though. I am going to cross my fingers and hope it works later this week.

Any good news Swingerman?
 
I have an update for you guys...its not the transmission that is causing the problem. A couple of months ago I swapped to LBP Yukon axles using 73 and up 10 X 2.5" rear drums.

After checking the car over we noticed that when you're standing on the brakes and pressing the throttle the driveshaft was still turning and that the rear end was making a whining noise (previously thought to be coming from the trans). Well I pulled the axles out and found that the axles were not going into the splines of the 3rd member all the way (only about 5/8").

I now have the 3rd member removed and I am going to take it to a local shop to make sure it was not damaged. The axles I am using are 28" w/green bearing and I have removed the thrust block from the chunk. Does anyone have an idea as to why the axles wouldn't going in all the way? I thought it may be that the bearing are not pushed all the way on, other than that I am not sure. Thinking about just getting the stock axles redrilled and using those instead. Thanks for listening.
 
pretty sure dayco makes the tci converters, you could have saved over $100 buying the dayco.
 
im assumming your using a cable type shifter, you may need the $40 box that jegs sells as by locking down lever trans doesnt know when to shift
 
not enough meat to redrill 4 inch pattern to larger size. very dangerous
 
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