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Awesome numbers on that engine. That is going to be lots and lots of fun!!! Did they give you the specs on the engine? What heads intake cam ect?

Its not too difficult to make the a-body cars handle with mostly factory parts and maybe a few aftermarket (sway bar's ). I would get a copy of the "Performace Handling For Classic Mopars" by Tom Condran. Its an excellent book that explains how to update your suspension with factory parts to...

What is the distance between the center of the perches on your new rear? The distance they need to be moved can be calculated, as A-Body's need them 43" apart.

Before I rebuilt my suspension I had a similar problem. I can't say for 100% certain, but I though it was due to the completely worn out lower control arm bushing(s). I know the strut rod and t-bar center the lower control arm, but my bushings were almost all gone. Its hard to check them with...

http://www.bluezombieparts.com/ also sells suspension kits for mopar. I used "Just Suspension" for my Duster suspension rebuild. Blue Zombie only sells American made stuff, so you know you are getting good parts.

Here is a pic I took before I rebuilt the front-end in my duster. The front of the T-bar was seated just enough to cover the flat part of the flat hex end of the bar. And the other end was a little farther in than the clip notch.

You could also get the mounts and other areas from a junkyard car. Im sure there are some parted-out cars with good mounts out there.

C-Body Tie-Rods and Adjusters are a easy and direct swap/upgrade. They are bigger and stronger. I think .89 (383 Bars) are the largest for A-Body? Some racers like the /6 bars (.83) as it gives more rise on launch.

Your MMV, but I have POR-15 coated my floor-boards to prevent rust, and ended up having to redo them after they still rusted . I did all of the prep steps they say to use (marine clean,then metal ready, then POR-15). I have lots of parts coated with POR-15, and am now afraid I am going to have...

I would replace the ball joints and tie rod ends at a minimum. There is no sure what to get all of the sand out.

I soaked my UCA bushings in Kroil, they came out with ease with the tools from American Muscle. Although, now that I look back, I should have just saved the trouble and bought tubular upper control arms.

I also have KYB's on my Duster. I really like them. Did you have problems with them on your car?

They make the car nice and stiff. I installed mine in my Duster and the difference is night and day. With a convertable I would think you need them even more. I think Mopars should have come with them from the factory in the first place!

FYI, the the outer tie-rods should be "Right-hand" thread, and the inners are ""Left-hand" thread. , SO by turning each adjuster sleeve clockwise, adjusts the toe "in" on for that side. This is the info from the suspension book. Hope this helps.

The performance handling book says the following for A-Body: Slant 6 Diam. .83" Rate: 92# 2-bbl V8 Diam. .85" Rate: 101# 4bbl V8 Diam. .87" Rate 110# 383 V8 Diam. .89" Rate: 120# I can post the part numbers for the factory bars I have in this book if anyone needs it. They are stamped...

Well it's done! Everthing got squared away and the ride is awesome. The steering wheel is straight for the first time I've owned the car. It drives awesome and I want to thank you all for your help. I used the allignment settings that the Performance Handling book recommends (I gave them to the...

Thanks for the input everyone! I really dont like the look if my car sitting so high in the front like that. When I set it back down the front was higher than the back, so I put a little air in the shocks in the rear to even it up. I know this will kill the handling more though. What I really...

I rebuilt the suspension on my duster and set the ride height. The car looks like it sits much higher than before. I am going to get it the allignment set this Saturday, and need to know if I have it set close enough or not. The difference in measurement between the lowest point on the torsion...

I got the other side welded. I got GOOD penetration on the weld. I took it slow to be sure not to heat it up too much. All the suspension parts except for the shocks are installed and ready to go now. I just need to finish rebuilding the calipers and install them with the new brake hoses (oh and...

UPDATE: I got it in! See PICS!! I am happy now. I will weld the other ball joint, this one is tight to spec. The other one holds good, just not to spec, I think it will be fine. I will go tubular arms a little later (or maybe buy them just-in-case) so I have some spares I can put on...

Thank you for the reply's. By RMS, did you mean reillymotorsports.com ? I think I will order some of the tubular upper arms and just put everything back together next weekend instead of this one. The bushed ends are the correct ones for a street car correct? Will the tubular arms be fine for...

I am putting my front suspension back together after putting in new rubber bushings (74 Duster). I have the passenger side done , but on the drivers side, the upper A-Arm doesnt fit back on the car very well. The passenger side went in as I expected it to, but the drivers side seems like its...

Only bummer with the torsion bar removal tool: Headers get in the way. This may not be true for all headers, but I bought the tool, and it wouldnt fit anywhere because my TTI headers were in the way. But as long as you are removing the engine it should be easy!

Does anyone know what size bolt and nut are used to attach the lower ball joint to the lower part of the spindle on a 1974 A-Body (Duster)? What grade bolt is recommended? I tore down the old suspension and am at the stage of installing the new lower ball-joints. The old bolts were rusted, and I...