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When I was getting my fuel/temp gauges working, I was careful with the ammeter connections. They're tight and clean; I did that work less than a year ago, and I was able to look at them under the dash yesterday. They're good. I don't know if I mentioned that in my backlog of text so far.

I just replaced the switch and lock because the old one was loose, so we can rule that out (since the voltage drop got no worse and maybe a little better). I also rewired IGN. 1 from the switch out to the VR and ballast resistor. I really think the only thing left in that circuit can be the...

A Power Probe is pretty neat. I hook it straight to both battery terminals, and then the probe itself shows the voltage at any point it touches. I don't think it does ground differences, so I use my multimeter for that in the way that you explained. With the Power Probe, I can also power up...

OK, I made a few more checks this morning. First, the battery is at least 6 years old, and I think it might be starting to get weak, although I haven't been driving the car a lot over the last week. Second, I'm not getting any significant voltage difference between the battery negative and...

The ammeter always reads in the middle (just a touch to the right of center, actually) after a few seconds of startup. I'm sure I've checked the grounds, but I'll check them again next time I'm out there messing with it. I believe today that I checked the battery voltage going into the...

There are two separate connectors through the bulkhead on mine. I'm pretty happy with 14V at the battery with the engine running, so I'll probably let it ride for now. Maybe I'm used to GMs and Fords, but I think that's within specification.

I've done some more playing around. I ran a new section of 14 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the bulkhead connector, and I ran new wiring from the bulkhead connector to the ballast resistor and the voltage regulator. Here are my new numbers: Key on, engine off: Battery: 12.2V VR...

Thanks for the detailed replies, Mattax. I bought the car from Wildcat Auto Wrecking, so anything in its history is possible! Some wiring looks like it might have gotten hot in the past. I checked the alternator stud with the engine running, and it held at about 0.2V above the battery. The...

Hello everyone, I've been fixing what isn't really broken today, and I have a few questions, just for the sake of my own education. I replaced a worn ignition switch, and I took a few voltage readings at various places. Here is what I found: Key on, engine off: Battery: 11.8V (this ranged up...

Thanks, that's exactly what I need. Now I just have to figure out why the blower won't work, all the while someone's been in there rewiring stuff because the air conditioner's been removed.

I'm doing some troubleshooting right now and I've run into a roadblock... My air conditioned '65 Dart has an intermittently working heater fan. I have the dash partially torn apart, and have determined that I have no power going to the fan switch. I DO have power at the vacuum switch that...

I'm using one in my slant six. It runs a lot better with about 13* initial, and I think I've limited it to 31 total with stock springs. I'm running a stock emissions vacuum canister with something like 16* of advance, so I don't want a quick curve since I already get a touch of part throttle...

I'm jealous!

My Skylark and Firebird run 12* initial and about 11* vacuum advance, for 23*. The Mustang runs 15* initial and 8* vacuum for 23*. I think the Firebird would much prefer ported vacuum, but there's no port on the carb for it.

Three of my cars use it, three use ported. Usually, the factory carb has a port for one or the other, so I don't always have a choice. Some cars seem to like it, others get nervous. One thing I do know: there's no right or wrong here. You have to test both and see which one the car likes better.

I've always liked points, but as mentioned above, I think their quality is diminishing. I have a 20-year old Pertronix in my Mustang and I just converted my Skylark two years ago. I keep a spare of each in their trunks just in case, just like I keep a spare orange box in the Dart.

I'm pretty paranoid about stuff like that. I have two spares in there already. I also threw the old distributor in the back and ordered another orange box for a spare. :)

I put the orange box setup in and it runs great. It always ran pretty well, but it idles smoother and runs cleaner going down the road. Worth the money so far!

Got it...I just ordered the kit with the box, harness, and ballast resistor from Jegs. I will definitely throw the old distributor in the parts box in the back of the wagon. If it all works out, I may just get a spare box for it. Thanks!

Duh, never mind...figured it out. Sorry!

I threw the Dart on the old Sun machine last night, and I think my old points distributor is worn. I have a tight electronic distributor that came with the engine ('74 225), and I'd like to throw it in. Obviously, my two options are HEI or Mopar... If I go Mopar I'd like to keep it simple...

I now have a dome light! It looks pretty good and works on both doors (but not the rears, interestingly...I never noticed that there are no door switches back there). There's one thing crossed off the list!

OK, all this is moot. I was just not observant enough...there is a cut wire taped to the headliner that I somehow missed. Now we're getting somewhere.

Oh no, the nice headliner had already been installed...unfortunately, someone had run off with the dome light. When you buy a car from a salvage yard, I guess you can't be surprised when it's got some problems. :)

When I bought my Dart from Wildcat Mopars, it came with a nice headliner but no dome light. Well, now I have a dome light and its attached wiring harness, but I have no idea where the wire goes and how I'm going to feed it through the headliner. Any ideas would be much appreciated...it's a '65...