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74 Duster

I have always used 3m seam sealer with good luck.

I don’t think paint will stick to it.

So what was different this time?

How did it work this time?

What temperature are you spraying at?

DP is designed to not be sanded. It will gum up sandpaper slightly. I have used it for years and never had any problems. It does not set up and harden like the K series.

I do Restoration body work part time. Materials are outrageous these days. I bought a gallon of primer/hardener for a 55 Chevy the other day and it was $419.86. Liquid gold!

Check out the price!

Attachments show error when trying to open.

They are really a one or two time deal and doing an engine bay would be too much, in my opinion. I would try a 20-30gal portable compressor and a regular gun, not a help. This would probably get you by for small stuff. Might look around the pawn shops and find one pretty cheap.

I would not recommend them. By the way, what did you do with all your cars?

I agree. Leave it till you can do it right.

Sometimes a temporary change can cause more and $ work later on!

They are great! But only as good as the operator. Now my next question is what kind of paint it the John Deere paint?

Tried all the locals. They are not really interested and they all use the same warehouse, and they are not really interested either it seems. I did find a NAGS number. DW691

Thanks for all the replies. Now the question is where do I find one?

is there a difference in the front windshield between a hardtop and a sedan? I know there is a difference in the back glass, but what about the front? I need a new windshield for a 1968 Dart 270 4 door. Any suggestions?

I have the pictures of the door. If you have a email or text number I can send them to you.

I have a pair of doors off of a 68 Dart sedan. Let me look tomorrow at the condition. If I remember correctly, the passenger was a good door, drivers needed some work, but was build able. Why are you replacing it?

Drivers or passenger door? And where in Texas are you located?

What are you working on?

Nitrostan?

I have seen rust start forming in as little as 1 hour on bare metal. As long as you treat it with a acid, or some type of metal conditioner before you prime or seal over it, no problem. Since you live in Florida, I would assume the humidity is 80-95 % most of the time. I treat any bare metal...

I have used a flange off of a 68 Dart fender to fix my Barracuda fender before.

Usually this is a indication of a misaligned latch and striker. The continued misalignment is flexing the metal and causing it to fatigue. Weld it up, and be sure to check the door hinge area and the door hinges. If you don't fix the misalignment, you will get new cracks right next to the welded...

I figured that, but thought I would ask. I ordered some once from another place and it came in folded and creased.

Rick- When you order this stuff from ya'll, does it come folded up or rolled up?

It is good stuff, workable and dries smooth. I use lacquer thinner to smooth and clean up.

They make a caulking gun seam sealer. You just need to remember that it need to be paintable. Some urethane's will not let paint stick to them.