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This, that's what I did. It does require a double flare tool.

Have you opened the bleeder so the pistons can compress?

Have you tried pulling the shoe slightly toward you when trying? In other words, toward you a little then press toward pin. Double check that bar that is under the wheel cylinder. Double double check that your E brake cable has enough slack, if it's even a little too tight you'll be fighting...

I would check the e brake arm and make sure it's at rest, check the cross bar make sure it's right, but to be honest not sitting tight like what is shown is common when replacing shoes. Does it compress to the pin when you press the shoes together?.

Curious, is this passenger side?

Can you post a pic of the whole assembly?

Why do you need a new one?

Distribution block/proportioning valve.

I just made mine when I did the swap. A pretty easy task, I went to NAPA and bought two lines that were long enough cut and bent them to fit. If you have a double flare tool for brake lines, easy peasy.

How about axle end play, is that set properly?

What did you set the pinion angle at?

At what?

When I switched from a 7 1/4 to 8 3/4 mine was short as well. Get under the car and back off the adjuster, that's what I did, and they fell right into place, then I adjusted it up.

Sounds like the system may be full of air.

@Mopar92 That ^^ is something to check if you haven't already. Have someone work the pedal while you watch to see if bubbles are in the MC.

Huh?

Did you, before assembly put the shoe in the drum to see if it was hitting on the entire surface. It 'sounds' like the drum may be out of round a bit and the edges of the shoes are hitting and the center is not. Hence the better feel when you have the E brake set.

Replace them, you can do it, it's a simple process.

Post a pic of the inside of the block.

Hurst here as well, no issues.

Yeah, I think you're right. Mine is around 13-14 (absolute minimum for power brakes), and my brakes don't feel exactly right. I'm swapping over to manual.

Put a vacuum gauge on it and see what she is pulling. You might try adjusting for a tad more too.

With the exception of the toggle switch (I use a momentary contact switch) that's exactly how I have mine. It should work. I guess it's possible you got a bad unit.

Can you explain exactly 'how' you installed it?

I wanna say 3/16 ths.

So you want to activate the roll control so the rear brakes don't engage, correct? If that's the case the outlet for the rear (out of distribution block) go into the "in" on the unit, then "out" to rear brakes. You would need to activate the unit before stepping on the brake pedal keeping...

Do you have a compressor and an angled die grinder? If so, you could try to smooth that surface down some on the drums where the shoe is rubbing. Use some coarse pads, smooth it down some and try it again. The rubbing doesn't seem to be too awful bad from the pics.

45 ft lbs with the suspension loaded.

No issues with cleaning them up and painting them. Just be sure that they are for an 8 3/4, my guess is they are not.

If I were a betting man, I'd say those are for a 7 1/4 rear. He doesn't say in the ad (at least I didn't see it) what size they are.