line lock not releasing?

-
diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
34,097
Reaction score
42,992
Location
michigan
so i installed my line lock today
cut the existing brake line, used flare nuts to mate the line into the lock, pretty straight forwards

as i was driving though, i noticed the brake pedal would get harder and harder, and something is preventing the fluid from returning to the master cylinder

i checked to make sure it was installed in the right direction (decided to put them on the front brakes after all)

i swapped polarities on the wires (even though they said polarity doesnt matter)

now, did i just get a bad solenoid?

i can feel the difference in brake pedal with it on or of BUT with it off, there is still too much restriction to allow the wheels to spin freely and i can feel the brakes dragging...and smell it too
 
So in from the master is the top port and out to the brakes is the bottom port?
Either way it shouldn't stop the fluid if it's not activated.
Like you said, pretty straight forward.
 
TrailBeast said:
So in from the master is the top port and out to the brakes is the bottom port?
Either way it shouldn't stop the fluid if it's not activated.
Like you said, pretty straight forward.
Click to expand...
Yes sir, just like that
I did notice the flare nuts I bought are open ended (no Ridge to catch the tube on) but I dont see how that could be an issue
 
diymirage said:
Yes sir, just like that
I did notice the flare nuts I bought are open ended (no Ridge to catch the tube on) but I dont see how that could be an issue
Click to expand...
curious. did u use flaired, or inverted flairs ? not that it would cause ur problem. sounds like u have voltage seeping thru the ground wire to me, "if" u have it installed in the right place in line. where is it in relation to the splitter block ? or does a 74 have a splitter block, not familiar w/ that year.
 
i just checked again, and it is still locked up (she sat overnight, and didnt bleed back or release)

i called Jegs and ordered a new line lock, but do you guys think i just got a bad part ?
i can hear it click when i put power to it, and again when i let it of

i did notice some of you use relays to power the line lock, but the directions didnt mention that, and even with all wires disconnected, it didnt seem to release
 
famous bob said:
curious. did u use flaired, or inverted flairs ? not that it would cause ur problem. sounds like u have voltage seeping thru the ground wire to me, "if" u have it installed in the right place in line.
Click to expand...

niether, i used "swaglock" flare nuts
same thing you would use on the nylon tubing when running a mechanical oil pressure gauge, only made out of stainless steel

i considered the voltage seep, but i did not disconnect the ground wire, only the positive
i will disconnect both wires and check back after i drop the kids of at school

sstubeadapter.jpg
 
Sounds like a bad unit if no voltage is going to it and it is still restricted prob the solenoid return spring is weak or something similar.
 
65wgn440 said:
Do yourself a favor and get rid of the compression fitting and double flare the line !
Click to expand...

whats would be the benefit of flares over the fittings i have now?
the ones i have now are rated at 10,300 PSI
 
diymirage said:
whats would be the benefit of flares over the fittings i have now?
the ones i have now are rated at 10,300 PSI
Click to expand...

Don't worry about changing the connections as they are plenty up to the job as long as they are good and tight, and I have to agree about the unit being bad. (you could bench test that once it's off)
On my 73 I have it right out of the master cylinder like you saw in the pic I posted and have zero problems with it.
 
ill bench test this one tomorrow, after i replace it
what exactly am i looking for?

obviously when it is closed when it should be open, thats pretty obvious, but could it be not opening enough?

i called in last night to Jegs, they are sending a new one out today, which should be here tomorrow

other then thinking about it, im gonna let it be for today (as in, not getting my hands dirty)
 
I was told by a local (Ohio) parts rep that those fittings are not DOT approved for small diameter brake line use. Wall thickness, using for repairs on old line, loosening/re-tightening failures, were a couple issues I think he mentioned. Not always just about burst pressures. That was maybe 1-2yrs ago, though, maybe things have changed.
 
diymirage said:
ill bench test this one tomorrow, after i replace it
what exactly am i looking for?

obviously when it is closed when it should be open, thats pretty obvious, but could it be not opening enough?

i called in last night to Jegs, they are sending a new one out today, which should be here tomorrow

other then thinking about it, im gonna let it be for today (as in, not getting my hands dirty)
Click to expand...

With the lock disconnected or off, you should be able to blow through it both directions with near zero resistance.
 
TrailBeast said:
With the lock disconnected or off, you should be able to blow through it both directions with near zero resistance.
Click to expand...
I tried blowing through it when I first installed it, there was definitely some resistance (hard to tell how much, but more then "near zero" for sure)

65wgn440 said:
I was told by a local (Ohio) parts rep that those fittings are not DOT approved for small diameter brake line use. Wall thickness, using for repairs on old line, loosening/re-tightening failures, were a couple issues I think he mentioned. Not always just about burst pressures. That was maybe 1-2yrs ago, though, maybe things have changed.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, I can see how someone could use these to splice a broken line, and how that would be an issue
 
Bad Sport said:
Can you explain exactly 'how' you installed it?
Click to expand...
I cut the existing brake lines coming out of the master cylinder, going towards the front brakes
The sections of the line that was still attached to the master cylinder got hooked up to the "in" port of the line lock, the part of the line going to the distribution block got plumbed to the "out" port of the line lock

Both of those connections were made with flare nuts

I ran power from a keyed source to a toggle switch on the shifter housing to the line lock and grounded the other side to the chassis
 
diymirage said:
I cut the existing brake lines coming out of the master cylinder, going towards the front brakes
The sections of the line that was still attached to the master cylinder got hooked up to the "in" port of the line lock, the part of the line going to the distribution block got plumbed to the "out" port of the line lock

Both of those connections were made with flare nuts

I ran power from a keyed source to a toggle switch on the shifter housing to the line lock and grounded the other side to the chassis
Click to expand...

With the exception of the toggle switch (I use a momentary contact switch) that's exactly how I have mine. It should work.

I guess it's possible you got a bad unit.
 
Bad Sport said:
With the exception of the toggle switch (I use a momentary contact switch) that's exactly how I have mine. It should work.

I guess it's possible you got a bad unit.
Click to expand...
That's would put me at two for two
(I had bought a new oil pressure switch for the wife's brand X, and the silly thing broke in half during installation)
 
AJ/FormS said:
If, for whatever reason, the pedal doesn't park at the top, then the compensating port will not be exposed to the returning fluid, and hydraulic pressure will remain in the line.
Click to expand...

Totally true, but it seems he would have had that problem before he put the lock in.
Could crack the line at the master when it's in the bind and see if it lets go also, and that would answer that question real quick.
 
It looks like the pedal could move another inch or so back up (on the footpad)
I didn't have time to get in there and look closely at it BUT it doesn't seem to sit any lower than it did before I put the line lock in
 
Do you have a booster?
What returns your pedal?

The point I am working toward is this;air is compressible.
If you have an air bubble in there, it becomes a big spring, and perhaps, without a booster, the pedal will not return to its parking spot, which will keep the compensating port closed, which will prevent the pistons from retracting, which will cause the pads to drag..............
The power booster has a big spring in it,powerful enough to return the pedal.
Just put a toe under the pedal and pull it up. If it moves, there's your problem. If it doesn't;sorry to have wasted your time. But before you put me on your ignore list, go check the master cylinder for a fountain at brake release.It better be there! Try not to get fluid all over everything.....The fluid should also roil on pedal application, as the compensating port does it's thing.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Do you have a booster?
What returns your pedal?
Click to expand...
we had a plumber , replumbing a bus terminal one time, using the swedge lock fittings, he didn`t get all the ferrules in the same, and the lines blew apart sometime in the middle of the night, they were hyd. service lines. U would not believe the mess he had to clean up! barrels and barrels of the stuff. I would have used double flairs "or inverted flairs) , and I did. the factory used them !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top