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@RustyRatRod

What's your idle set at? Sometimes just bumping up the idle a tad will take care of that. Of course if it hasn't been rebuilt then the bearing clearances may be an issue.

The rattle might very well be that the rockers need adjusted.

If you have a good level surface, I would think a level on the carb base would suffice. Level front to rear, level left/right.

Possible coil.

I'm confused, are you saying it does run now?

It is now. :D

LOL, I was just gonna ask if it was done.

Lol, I have a SSB/CB base unit, with a high drive linear. I was sitting here talking to someone in Utah one day for just a couple of minutes. A little later my neighbor down the road stopped me and asked me how I could possibly be coming through her organ in her living room, she said it was...

Hmmmm.....I've always heard no primer. I just painted my block and heads using several light coats of Duplicolor Hemi Orange. Be sure to use the high heat paint designed for engines.

Slant 6's can be made to run, but it takes more than a carb, lol. There are some that run 9's in the quarter.

On some of the OEM air cleaners there was a small plastic fitting with a filter built in, you obviously don't have that on that aftermarket air cleaner. That would catch the little bit of oil and any debris flowing though there. Secondly, if you find the time, it might help to pull the valve...

Sometimes it's as simple as an idle adjustment. If it's dropping to low at the point of return the light can come on.

You're fine asking questions, what Del is relaying to you is each of us really should have an FSM for our cars. I didn't for a while, and there isn't much I can't do or figure out on it. I finally bought one a couple of years ago just to have it.

You're gonna have to be a lot more specific than that. /6, smallblock, big block, 25 horse Kohler?

I hate those plastic filters, lol. OK, Lance beat me up Scotty. :D

Huh? Usually wet plugs indicates too much fuel. Or it's getting fuel and the plugs aren't getting spark.

I agree with above, waaay too big. A 750 can be too big for some V8's, lol.

See above, lol. Posting at the same time.

The aftermarket one I bought did not have the hose inside going to the bottom of the tank, just a petcock on the bottom. I simply pulled the fitting out, added a piece of tube and put it back together. It works like a champ.

I would think a small vent hole would be in order, if not it could crush a plastic tank. Mine has a small vent hole right at the top.

Lol, well you know what they say about guys and directions.

No sure fire explanation for this, I don't think. It's going to take some investigation on your part. Good points have been made.

Numbers matching and date codes are two different animals. Charrlie_S explained it correctly. Even IF the date codes are correct, it still doesn't tell you that the engine is the one that came in that car, only that it was produced in that time frame. Numbers matching will have VIN#'s on the...

Since it's a new carb, I would check the pump shot. With the car not running, look down in the carb and crack the throttle quickly. Do you see fuel instantly? Have you tried running a hose right from the fuel pump into a fresh can of gas, eliminating the tank and lines? If you did, I missed...

First and foremost, I would make sure the valves are adjusted up properly before you start. I would run the engine and let it warm up, let it cool to the point you can work on it. Remove all of the plugs, pull all of the wires (keep track of which one goes where), unplug the coil wire, use a...

What kind of spark? Is it yellow, or is it a nice blue color with a nice sharp snap to it. When you pulled a plug, is it wet?? Not all spark is the same, lol.

I'd do a rebuild on the carb as well.

Everyone should have one in the toolbox anyway.

Piece of wire with an alligator clip on each end.