expansion tank

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rdb

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Anyone ever put a radiator expansion tank on a slant 6?
 
I assume he is talking about a coolant expansion tank like some of the old Fords used.
 
rdb said:
Yes, just like more recent cars have for overflowing coolant.
Click to expand...

It's no different than doing it on any other engine/cooling system really.

How about a giant shotgun shell recovery tank? :D
The aluminum top is the cap.
 

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to be a "recovery" tank does it have to be sealed accept for the hose running into it in order for it to create the suction to pull it back into the radiator? or does it remain vented?
 
TB, that's sweet.

OP
No, if the entering hose is dumped near the bottom of the tank. I cut them off at 45*, and keep them off the bottom where the mud forms.Yes, the tank wil have to be vented.This will make it a self-adjusting expansion tank, or a coolant recovery tank.
But really , on a slanty around here,I can run the rad near 30% empty, and not overheat. So running the liquid level to just cover the cores, or a little higher, turns the top tank into an integral expansion tank.
BTW, my cooling systems, here in Manitoba are happy running 7psi. Your results may vary. The hoses last for decades.
 
tarvin890 said:
to be a "recovery" tank does it have to be sealed accept for the hose running into it in order for it to create the suction to pull it back into the radiator? or does it remain vented?
Click to expand...

I would think a small vent hole would be in order, if not it could crush a plastic tank.

Mine has a small vent hole right at the top.
 
tarvin890 said:
to be a "recovery" tank does it have to be sealed accept for the hose running into it in order for it to create the suction to pull it back into the radiator? or does it remain vented?
Click to expand...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember the radiator cap also needs to be changed when going to a "modern" (70's and newer style) coolant recovery system. But that's it.
 
tarvin890 said:
to be a "recovery" tank does it have to be sealed accept for the hose running into it in order for it to create the suction to pull it back into the radiator? or does it remain vented?
Click to expand...

The hose from the radiator needs to be under the coolant level in the tank and the tank itself needs to be vented to allow the coolant to replace the air in the tank and pull it back without restriction.

That tank I made was actually a thermos and the hose from the radiator goes into the bottom of the inner liner with fittings and rubber washers for sealing to the tank. (it sticks up a half inch inside so it doesn't recover bottom gunk)
The vent is on the inside of the tank at the top and it vents between the layers and out the bottom of the outer tank shell when it needs to vent or actually overflow the tank itself. (It never has, but it could if needed)

With a recovery type cap you could literally have a hose running into a mason jar with no lid on it, and it would still work like it is supposed to.
The recovery type cap allows coolant out to the recovery tank only when the pressure in the cooling system gets higher than the cap can hold back (12-17lbs or so) like expanding fluid with no air gap needs.
Then when the system cools down and the coolant contracts again leaving room for it in the radiator, the contracting causes a vacuum and that little valve on the cap picture I posted has a very light spring holding it closed, so the vacuum can pull the coolant back into the radiator.

The three critical points are that the recovery hose needs to be submerged in the coolant to recover it, and that the recovery hose from the radiator to the recovery tank HAS to be air tight.
AND the tank needs to be vented somewhere towards the top to atmosphere to allow the fluid to move in and out of it without causing a pressure or vacuum in the tank.
 
so a puke tank will always just be a puke tank unless you do several changes to make it a true recovery system.. tha bring the coolant back to the radiator like a late model...
 
TrailBeast said:
The hose from the radiator needs to be under the coolant level and the tank itself needs to be vented to allow the coolant to replace the air in the tank and pull it back without restriction.

That tank I made was actually a thermos and the hose from the radiator goes into the bottom of the inner liner with fittings and rubber washers for sealing to the tank.
The vent is on the inside of the tank at the top and it vents between the layers and out the bottom of the outer tank shell when it needs to vent or actually overflow the tank itself.
Click to expand...

ahh i see..just hate to see systems vent to the ground... seems better to let the system take it back...if thats what the OP is going for...
 
tarvin890 said:
so a puke tank will always just be a puke tank unless you do several changes to make it a true recovery system.. tha bring the coolant back to the radiator like a late model...
Click to expand...


The aftermarket one I bought did not have the hose inside going to the bottom of the tank, just a petcock on the bottom.

I simply pulled the fitting out, added a piece of tube and put it back together. It works like a champ.
 
You are talking about a coolant recovery tank. No it cannot be sealed. In order for the coolant to be drawn back into the radiator when the cooling system has cooled off, the recovery tank must be vented. Otherwise the radiator would simply pull a vacuum on the recovery tank and not draw much if any coolant back into the radiator. The radiator cap controls all that. It has two valves on it. One that the large spring in the center controls to open and let coolant into the overflow tank and the second smaller valve in the center that opens when the system cools off and allows coolant to be drawn back into the radiator.
 
Living and daily driving in AZ makes me want as much coolant and as little air as possible in the system.
26 inch radiator and a 1 quart recovery system and this car will go places you wouldn't ever consider going without AC.
Middle of a summer day in Needles CA, and the wife was whining, but the car wasn't. :D
 
RustyRatRod said:
You are talking about a coolant recovery tank. No it cannot be sealed. In order for the coolant to be drawn back into the radiator when the cooling system has cooled off, the recovery tank must be vented. Otherwise the radiator would simply pull a vacuum on the recovery tank and not draw much if any coolant back into the radiator. The radiator cap controls all that. It has two valves on it. One that the large spring in the center controls to open and let coolant into the overflow tank and the second smaller valve in the center that opens when the system cools off and allows coolant to be drawn back into the radiator.
Click to expand...

I thought I explained all that? :D

Oh well, sometimes hearing something differently helps people understand better.
 
TrailBeast said:
With a recovery type cap you could literally have a hose running into a mason jar with no lid on it, and it would still work like it is supposed to........................Then when the system cools down and the coolant contracts .................... causes a vacuum and that little valve on the cap picture I posted has a very light spring holding it closed, so the vacuum can pull the coolant back into the radiator.

The three critical points are..............

.......... that the recovery hose needs to be submerged in the coolant to recover it

............ and that the recovery hose from the radiator to the recovery tank HAS to be air tight.
............AND the tank needs to be vented ................
Click to expand...

^^THIS^^

There is NO reason to "run a puke tank." You can (or used to) be able to buy recovery tank kits at the parts stores and I'm sure online.

You DO need to insure you get a proper fitting coolant recovery cap to fit your radiator.
 
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