Newbie needs help decoding!

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Dollar Dude

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I am looking for my first Valiant. I want to find a numbers matching car. One I am looking at is a 1964. The /6 has 2463230-8 as the block code on the left side with 1 15 64 to the right of that. The engine stamping on the right front block edge reads V 17 2 07
Every list I have seen says the block code is for a 1965 170 slant six. The other codes indicate that this is a 1964 engine. What gives?
The fender tag gives the SO date of Jan 20 of 1964 for the car.
 
Hi Dollar Dude, and welcome to FABO.

I confirm that every listing I found also calls that out as a 65 170 "G" block

/6 cars aren't usually too collectible - maybe it doesn't really matter?

John
 
Thanks for the reply. Is that the way most A-body enthusiasts look at it?
I realize V-8s are worth more, as a rule, but have always respected /6s.
I am a nut about originality and wondered if I had missed something here. Perhaps the block was replaced with a 65 and was stamped or re-stamped to look like a 64?
Or the factory sometimes pulled newer blocks intended for the next year?
 
There is no such thing as "numbers matching" in those year Mopars. Correct date code yes, numbers matching, no. Not sure, but I think they started putting the VIN number on the engine about 1968.
 
Numbers matching is used in different ways by different people.
I refer to the usage that indicates that the codes and dates stamped on the major components of a car should match available records, showing the car most likely has its original major components. The 1968 stamping of engine blocks with partial VINs was not the beginning of the use of the phrase but is one more item to check.
Haggerty Insurance has a good article on the subject.
 
Numbers matching is used in different ways by different people.
I refer to the usage that indicates that the codes and dates stamped on the major components of a car should match available records, showing the car most likely has its original major components. The 1968 stamping of engine blocks with partial VINs was not the beginning of the use of the phrase but is one more item to check.
Haggerty Insurance has a good article on the subject.


Numbers matching and date codes are two different animals.

Charrlie_S explained it correctly.

Even IF the date codes are correct, it still doesn't tell you that the engine is the one that came in that car, only that it was produced in that time frame.

Numbers matching will have VIN#'s on the engine that correlate to the VIN# on the car, therefore you know that particular engine came in that car off the line.
 
Numbers matching is used in different ways by different people.
I refer to the usage that indicates that the codes and dates stamped on the major components of a car should match available records, showing the car most likely has its original major components. The 1968 stamping of engine blocks with partial VINs was not the beginning of the use of the phrase but is one more item to check.
Haggerty Insurance has a good article on the subject.

So you ask us a question, and then tell us hows its done. Hmm. #-o

So you know,Charlie is about as knowledgeable of a guy on /6's as your going to find.

Hate to say it, but I think you have better odds hitting the lottto than finding your engine.
 
Thanks for the reply. Is that the way most A-body enthusiasts look at it?
I realize V-8s are worth more, as a rule, but have always respected /6s.
I am a nut about originality and wondered if I had missed something here. Perhaps the block was replaced with a 65 and was stamped or re-stamped to look like a 64?
Or the factory sometimes pulled newer blocks intended for the next year?

The collectors, in general, are looking for the rare/desirable variants - /6 was the grocery getter econo-model.

I'm having fun with a /6 in my '64 GT, but I'm doing a stroker small block in my '64 wagon.
Neither will ever be worth what an unusual optioned/big motor/later car would sell for, but I'm scratching my own itch.
 
The collectors, in general, are looking for the rare/desirable variants - /6 was the grocery getter econo-model.

An exception is a '70-72 Cuda/Challerger convert, with a slant six. These are even more rare then the same car with a "Hemi", but not as valuable, as is. It is worth more as a big motor clone.
 
Thanks for the /6 responses.
I look forward to tinkering with a /6 engine.
Is it possible the factory used the 2463230 block in a 64 car even though charts list it as a 1965 block? The numbers to the right indicate a Jan 15th production, don't they? This is five days before the SO date.
The V on the engine stamp indicates a 1964 block. The stamping date for that is 2 07.
I know that could be changed, but why bother on such an inexpensive car?
 
Warranty replacement? Motor replaced sometime in the last 51 years with a junkyard motor that's almost the same? Who can say?
 
I have (2)'64 GT's,one coupe & one convertible, they both have their orig. engines.
Both have casting #'s 2463430 -4 & -7(which is the station that made the casting).
I also have the orig. eng. from my old '69 dart custom HT,& the orig. eng in my '72
duster, which share the casting #'s of 2806380 -4 & -1.
The eng. I just pulled from an old 1st gen. valiant has casting#2202843,it's a 170.
The point is the engines are stamped at assy. for production in those days,and the
breakdown is,first digit is series(model year) next TWO 1st two of displacement,and
last paired group the date. A number to the far right of those would be the shift that
built the eng.,no number-1st shift, then 2 or 3 .
BOTH my '64's start with "V" then 22 (225) then the build date.Later engines also
went to 3 digits for the disp., and added a platform designation letter next,then the
rest as usual.This was done by '72,I mowed the deck on the'69,so I can't read that
anymore !:) But my auto encyclopedia stated the eng. ID stampings were changed
for the '66 model year,so..... somewhere in there. Either way THREE '64's and THREE
"V"'s says....... it's a '64 170, buy in confidence and enjoy!!
The factory wasn't in the habit of "pretagging" engines for future production,and
as my other two engines prove,castings were used multiple years and the date
isn't in the basic casting #, which are routinely revised and inserted into production regardless of model year. Cheers!!:coffee2:
 
Slant works great in a light 64. Simple, bulletproof and easy to work on. Replace the factory 1.5" headpipe with a 2.25" piece from a muffler shop to uncork it. Few more mods: shave head .090, dual exhaust, bigger cam, 2bbl intake.
 
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