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The issue has always been that the factory design sends the bulk of the charging current through the bulkhead connector and up through the ameter. You can do the fleet upgrade and beef up the components to alleviate the issue especially if you really want to keep the stock ameter functional (ie...

The major issue is and always has been the fact that the oem design sends the bulk of the charging current through the bulkhead, to the ameter then back out again. You can do the fleet u

Check your pickup to reluctor gap and rotor phasing. Is it better or worse with vac advance hooked up? Had similar issues and it ended up the little tri-prong clip under the advance plate was broken!

I'd love to know what kinda voltage that's putting out at 7200rpms. Just would be curious. I've heard of them starting to drop after 4500. But everyone has different experiences with stuff

No RPM limiter on the Orange box, that's simply an advertised performance limit. The only oem style ecu with a built in adjustable rev limiter I'm aware of is the Rev-N-Nator sold through The R/T Garage. http://www.thertgarage.com/products.html That being said, the orange box would more or...

My experience was great, but everyone is different. Bill was friendly and informative and fast to ship. Product was nice. He even made me up the length of wife for the fusible link that goes from the relay to the bulkhead pigtail since my existing one was round style and shipped it for free to...

You call up Bill Evans at evanswiring.com and order a new one. I was in the same boat. My bulkhead connector was toasty/burnt terminals as were parts of my engine harness. Best decision I've made on wiring for the Duster was just getting a new one. $70 may seem a little pricey but to me it was...

I just run a length of 10-12 gauge wire with suitable 14-16 gauge piece of fusible link from the starter relay lug to the alt lug. It takes the load off the ampmeter and the bulk of the charging circuit no longer runs through the bulkhead connector/dash and back out again. Then I just hookup a...

Pull the yellow lead off the starter relay that's your ignition lead and check with key and a test light. Try in Park and Neutral. That'll rule out that. Could also bypass your NSS with a jumper and test it. Dim lights at idle are pretty common on these old cars. But wouldn't hurt to put a multi...

If you feel the need to buy a new coil and distributor then just grab em from Rock Auto! Got my dizzy from RA for $40 range and it's great. But just swapping a dizzy and coil for new isn't gonna give ya more pep. Your just replacing parts that already function correctly. If you want an upgraded...

Yea but running a wire from alt stud to starter relay stud w/ fusible link takes virtually all the charging load from running in and back out of the bulkhead connector and ameter wiring which is most of the issue. True however that a cruddy bulkhead could still be problematic but the danger of...

Had similar issue. If you test your yellow ign switch wire and it passes mustard, Pull the tape off your NSS harness and check it out, the brown wire as mentioned is your NSS wire, the other two are backup light wires. Your NSS wire has a factory "welded splice" in it. Mine was barely hanging on...

Touché! However I do believe Greg mentioned you can add a rev limiter to his setup. Still worth the upgrade and increase in performance and efficiency and decrease in number of wires running everywhere! But I digress, and will try not to get/stay off topic

Fah get about all dis overpriced MSD, Rev-N-Ator, and underperforming orange box hub-bub... http://www.classichei.com/

Hey Kyle....just a thought. See link below. I had FBO stuff on my car all last season and it was fine. But I'm upgrading to Greg's HEI conversion this season. De-clutter the engine bay AND better performance. For $150 you get plug/play HEI at less cost that Rev-N-Ator OR Don's new box from FBO...

Never mind. Got it apart...just real tight was all.

Joe - I need the whole enchilada....not just the pigtail connector (my whole harness from NSS switch to this connector is basically toast....from this connector to the bulkhead is still good) so.... I got this in the mail today, whole new harness which is great, exactly what I need...except I...

Hey guys thanks for all the replies....sorry for not checking back in sooner! I actually found what Imthink will work from Classic Industries and ordered it. Should be here today. If it doesn't work then we will gomfrom there! Looks like it should though. It's an E body piece but looks the same...

Put a multi on it and verify voltage with a buddy while he revs it! Check all the usual suspects...should be easy enough to find where/why its spiking!

After being fed up with the random no crank/no start issue with the Duster and never knowing when I'll need to jump the relay with a screwdriver I finally pulled the whole NSS harness out and dissected yrs of electrical tape down to bare wires. I've already replaced the starter relay, ign...

Maybe a better question is do you need that alternator? Are planning on running elec fuel pump, elec fans, big sound system etc? If not why not just run something closer to a stock type replacement? If so....then substantial wiring upgrades all around are logical anyway.

Take a multi and test for voltage drop at the alt, reg, ecu and across the battery terminals. Check for variations. I've had similar issues and it was a weak regulator. As mentioned are you sure it's I thermally regulated? 12 volts boarder line. It will weaken your battery Forsure eventually...

Short answer? No...not in my opinion but you'll get a bunch of different opinions on this one. I for one like the FBO ignition that Don sells. Better than the factory or even MP stuff but retains the stock type set up and it's cheaper than a full MSD set up! Dons new box eliminates the ballast...

Put a test light on the yellow wire coming off the starter relay. Have someone turn the key to crank. If it lights up the switch is good. Just an easy thing to eliminate. Good luck.....my money is on the switch or bulkhead wiring based on what your describing. Check NSS wiring too. Easy to...

100amp would probably work but just keep in mind if your cars wiring is all factory....(and old) it was not intended to support a 100amp alternator per se. I'd go 60amp unless you plan on lots of upgrades (stereo, elec fans, fuel pump etc) and the requisite wiring upgrades (new/larger gauge...

Got my issue too...great for a fellow A-body and all around good Mopar guy to get some pub!!:cheers:

Kinda what I was thinking....but all the Chinese made crap scares me sometimes. Some is ok, some is just fine, some is garbage....crap shoot. But I like the idea of self contained ECU and no ballast/ ext. ECU etc and cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay....temped to pop on one for the hell...

Cool thanks! Wonder if anyone has run the Mopar versions? Search function doesnt come up with much...

Anyone use one? Good results? Sound too good to be true...or to cheap to be any good! They are $70 on Ebay.... Link:http://store.procompelectronics.com/p-313-chrysler-318-7000-series-ready-to-run-distributor-vacuum.aspx Just wondering if they are junk? Or maybe they are good units?

Make your own...I just get some appropriately sized black wire from Summit (their brand) and multi angle boots and go to it. Easy and they fit the way I want them too...cheaper too!