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Thank you very much, FABO people! Your replies contain so much valuable information. I really appreciate it, and will be referring to your replies in the future.

I'm painting antique cars (on which a base/clear would be incorrect), farm implements and shop equipment with single-stage urethane. I sure wish I knew of someplace that offered good prices on decent-quality paint. Probably this would be an online store rather than a bricks and mortar one(?)...

I've been spraying quite a bit of epoxy primer, and I had thought that spraying lacquer thinner or acetone between uses would suffice to keep it clean inside. That was wrong. The epoxy paint did build up inside the passages of the gun, despite spraying lacquer thinner each time after I used...

I forgot to ask: would you boys recommend wet or dry sanding for the scuff-up?

Oops, so maybe I didn't read the technical data sheet for the Nason Ful-Poxy epoxy primer carefully enough, but I'm noticing where it says, under "Dry Times", that "Ful-Poxy can be recoated at any stage of cure". Doesn't this mean that, rather than scuffing up the old primer, I could instead...

Thanks for all the good information. Yes, barbee6043, it's the underside of the car and I'm going to top coat it with some PCC industrial semi-gloss black catalyzed urethane (single stage), so I'm not all that concerned about how it looks, so I think I'll just use the red Scotchbrite pads, call...

I painted the underside of one of my Mopars with Nason Ful-Poxy 491-12 epoxy primer and then, dangit, life intervened and I didn't top coat it in a timely fashion (48 hours)! To make matters worse, the surface of the underside of the body is very irregular, with many flutes and louvers pressed...

I think the body man wants to finish the underside with Delfleet One over DP90 epoxy primer. Does that sound right? I can double-check with him if you think I got this wrong. The finished look is very shiny, and non-original, but the argument is that the Delfleet preserves the body much...

Have you ever used Delfleet to seal the underside of your car after abrasive blasting, and if so, how did you like it? Think it will last for a long time?

I hope you guys don't mind if I bump this thread up again. Thanks very much for all of your replies. Can anybody refer me to someone who can cut, shorten, modify, etc. these moldings for me? Thanks again.

Thanks, I understand now that it is probably anodized aluminum. These body moldings for a '70s Mopar dually are totally NLA. Would you guys please take a look at these pictures and give me your opinions?:

Remember these, off '70s and '80s Mopars? Can these be repaired by brazing with brass rod?

Please forgive me, guys, if this question is rather clueless! I'm a newbie to auto glass work. I'm replacing the rear window on my '70s Dodge that has locking-strip type rubber. I intend to use 3M 08509 glass bedding compound to seal the rubber to the body. Where should I place the bead of...

Heck yeah, I'm interested, Bob. I just meant that I would follow everyone's advice to check the hinges, to see if maybe they had caused undue strain on the striker post. But yes, I am in great need of a replacement because it is different from other Chrysler products and I can't find one!

Thanks a lot for all the advice, guys. I'll do what you suggest.

If I just want to remove light surface rust and dirt from sheet metal parts that I have already stripped, prior to priming them, what is the best kind of Roloc disc to use? What disc should I use to make the metal clean and shiny without scratching it too much? Bristle disc, flat disc or edge...

Attached is a picture of the driver's door latch post on my '77 B200 Sportsman SE, which I have owned since new and is in pretty good shape. The latch post is composed of the inner post, a thin plastic tube over the inner post, and a thin wall steel tube as the outer part of the post. My inner...

More on Mopar front door window installs (courtesy of ImperialCrown on allpar.com): You've got to follow the correct order of installation (assuming everything, including weatherstrips, is removed from the door): Lube up the window's end channel that is mounted permanently at the latch end of...

Just suppose that some guy [(not me; I would never do a thing like that) yeah, right!] sandblasted some fenders and then Life Got In the Way so he didn't prime them right away, and they picked up surface rust from sitting around. Would you sandblast them again, go over them with a Roloff disc...

"Any decent glass shop can cut you one." I have looked into that in the past, but the glass shops around here seem to charge an arm and a leg to cut a rounded piece of glass. I don't know if they charge so much is because it is really a difficult job, or if they are playing me for a rube.

"Getting the glass out to replace just that is kind of a PITA. Super easy to break it." The glass is already broken, so removing the pieces with a heat gun to melt the silicone glue is pretty easy.

The glass is somewhat unusual in size (5" x 7"). There is a company called "K Source" which manufactures many aftermarket exact replacement door mirrors and mirror glass, and sells through the major outlets such as AutoZone and O'Reilly's. I wrote them, and they seem to have very good customer...

I'm trying to find either a replacement door mirror head, or just the glass, for a Lil Red Express or a Warlock truck, where the glass is rectangular and measures 7" x 5". Would anybody know where to find this? Thanks a lot.

2,635 lbs. for a 60-62 Valiant V-200. That's gotta be the lightest(?) Maybe some day I'll take my '62 to the strip and get some time slips.

The usual problem that people run into with Mopar vent window/window glass cars is that in order to remove the window glass you have to first remove the divider bar, but to remove the divider bar you have to first remove the window glass! The answer is to remove all the hardware attaching the...

1977 Sportsman SE B200 with a permanent fiberglass camper top. The interior of the fiberglass top is "lined" (finished smooth and glossy). I would like to glue wood cleats to the inside of the top and screw the front panels of the cabinets to them in order to strengthen the way the cabinets are...

I am just about to start replacing the trim on my '62 Valiant V-200 resto-mod which was recently repainted. I never did like the way the trim dug into the paint the last time I installed it, so I was thinking that maybe this time I would install plastic edge trim on the pieces whose edges come...

I had a body shop paint the car because I am not that good at paint and body work. They used Sikkens paint, and I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. It is a lot better than my earlier 20-footer job. They also installed front end braces and front and rear torque plates that tie into...

On some Mopar vehicles the front window removal must be done a a certain sequence; i.e., roll the window all the way down. Remove all the fasteners on the divider bar so it is loose. Pull the top of the divider bar up and to the rear, until the divider bar won't go back any further. This...

http://autodiscountfasteners.com/ They have all the plastic clips. Some of the Mopar clips that you may be interested in are numbers: 11354 6003632 6003147 6003219