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^ Agree 100%. I've been using Proforged Tie rod ends and have been really happy with them. The Moog stuff I used before lasted only a few years. Speaking of which I'm about to replace the Pitman arm which is Moog with Proforged pretty soon. The Moog Pitman arm I'm using was installed in 2013...

Hardly any difference. I changed to: Aluminum heads Aluminum intake Exhaust Headers. Went to 73 front bumpers (No more bumper shocks). There was hardly any change in steering feel or ride, the ride was still squishy no matter what. (I'm sure the 40+ year old torsion bars didn't help at the time)...

Or "squishy" torsion bars. lol But yes, I agree on the QA1 control arms over magnum force, QA1 also makes some decent shocks. Bilsteins from PST | Car & Truck Suspension Parts | Performance Suspension is also my top choice.

Since you have a 74 as well. I may have digital copies of the TSM (technical service manual) for you.

Apparently not. Oh well, maybe he'll get a "Permanent Vacation" from this site. Great Aerosmith song BTW. I used KYB shocks in the past. They were 'ok' they did all right with stock torsion bars. Soon after I upgraded the torsion bars to PST's 1.03 in. ones. I had to change the front shocks...

That's a spiffy lookin' Duster... I'm diggin' it. This is giving me some ideas.

*Sorry a bit long* Here's a list of what I've done thus far, Keep in mind it does get expensive especially if you're buying it all outright. I bought pieces here and there over a period of 4-5 years. After doing all of this, the handling has improved significantly. I daily drive my duster like...

I'm not too experienced with early A-bodies. Mainly 70 - 76 A bodies, I've done a little with my buddies 68 Barracuda but that's about it. (67-69 Barracuda is possibly my next car if I can't find a decent 71-74 Satellite). But I'll do my best, I believe that early A's have narrower k-members...

70aar... Is correct! So as an update I am thinking about converting this car to power steering. From the looks of things the new K-member does offer a little more room, however the headers are going to be a problem possibly. Will update once I mock things up.

Here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-52313 Motor mounts I went to here: '67-72 A-Body Products * I bought these: A67LA (340/360) * Or if you want spendy and fancy you can go with: A83L (340/360 for Poly-Locs)

Yeah only saving like between 6-7 lbs I think, not much. The reason I got this was I could'nt find a decent K-member for a good price. They were all wanting $150-200 here locally. I did try getting one out of state which did not work out. And plus I'm a novice welder with a POS flux core. I will...

I didn't have a problem with my steering box. But again mine is a manual one and yours looks to be power.

Yeah these are "free" Hooker Comp headers. Eventually I'll be getting better headers.

Of course, according to my wife. I can't purchase any more aftermarket stuff for the Duster for awhile. I mean a long while. As she would say: "You spent the Duster allowance for the next year." That's ok I can get creative with scrap metal and jaunts to the local salvage yard. :thumbsup:

Handles much better! A little better ride as well, a little stiff over bumps but that can be mainly due to the KYB performance shocks. But then again this is not a Cadillac, nor do I want it to ride like one. I can still drive 3+ hours in this thing pretty comfortably. Solved a bunch of...

Well. I went ahead and did it. I purchased the QA1 Tubular K-member. I got tired of constantly fixing the original K-members welds. It also doesn't help that I have a cheap 15 yr old Craftsmen welder to deal with. So I pulled the trigger and bought the setup from Summit.

The 2800lbs spring will be fine. Remember, although you car weighs 3100lbs most of its weight is going to be in the front. Now for racing and constant hard launches that might be a different story.

:shock: Wow... Really? I see a disaster waiting to happen with that one... :banghead: :shock:

Well, I attempted to weld it yesterday. So far it looks like it holds up well I put all my weight on it and tried to see if it would budge or shift. Nothing. Although the welds look like turds. I used the craftsmen flux welder with Lincoln flux wire.

I'll take it, you have a PM.

I estimated $48.71 in shipping using UPS ground. So not too bad. I don't know your exact location so I guessed Zip code 47501 to my zip code of 84015. I used the weight 35 lbs to estimate.

Well... I can try and get another K-member. But I do have a slight problem, all I have is a craftsmen flux welder. I do not have a good MIG welder. My welding skills are at a novice level. What would be the most economical solution for me? I can try and reinforce another one with my boogerish...

Well... I might have a solution... I have a motorcycle I haven't sold yet. I don't ride hardly anymore after my last accident. So I'm going to sell it to pay for the aftermarket K-member and tubular upper control arms. It's a 2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic it should more then pay for the...

There was so much play in LCA's. I'm assuming this had something to do with it? It also could be that the LCA bushings weren't replace in time last year. (I drove for almost a month with bad LCA bushings with the new ball joints before replacing the bushings) Yeah I know... Bad.

That's if I can find one locally or close by where shipping won't kill you. The salvage yards here only have the slant 6's. I know there are slant 6 to V8 motor mounts for $159. If I can talk them down to below $100 I'll be good. But unlikely.

Well I was driving on the freeway today when all of a sudden the duster started handling wonky and wandering erratically, like if its alignment was off somehow. After driving back home. I tore into the front suspension. Yep upper ball joints are gone and the lower balljoints are not looking to...

Talking about this guy? (circled)

I believe you can buy axle shafts with a 5X4.5 pattern that will fit into the unit. Not sure if you knew this or not: The early Dakota's (1987-90-91?) had 5X4.5 bolt patterns as well. And there were quite a few Jeeps that have the 8 1/4 as well with the same bolt pattern. Here, hope this...

And if the PS box doesn't have one in decent shape, you'll need a pitman arm as well.

This website is pretty helpful too: http://www.wwnboa.org/birdsuspensionrebuild.htm Although it is for a superbird it's still pretty much the same concept.