Aluminum vs cast iron cylinder head suspension effects
- Thread starter n00blike
- Start date
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Hardly any difference.
I changed to:
Aluminum heads
Aluminum intake
Exhaust Headers.
Went to 73 front bumpers (No more bumper shocks).
There was hardly any change in steering feel or ride, the ride was still squishy no matter what. (I'm sure the 40+ year old torsion bars didn't help at the time)
In regards to handling, did feel like it was slightly less wallowing in the corners to me, but that was all. (I mean that's the best I can describe it). But again that could also be due to the old torsion bars.
But that all changed when I went to bigger torsion bars (PST: 1.03) and went to QA1 front suspension goodies. Then everything changed dramatically with better handling and a more "planted" ride.
I changed to:
Aluminum heads
Aluminum intake
Exhaust Headers.
Went to 73 front bumpers (No more bumper shocks).
There was hardly any change in steering feel or ride, the ride was still squishy no matter what. (I'm sure the 40+ year old torsion bars didn't help at the time)
In regards to handling, did feel like it was slightly less wallowing in the corners to me, but that was all. (I mean that's the best I can describe it). But again that could also be due to the old torsion bars.
But that all changed when I went to bigger torsion bars (PST: 1.03) and went to QA1 front suspension goodies. Then everything changed dramatically with better handling and a more "planted" ride.
Moving to a larger torsion bar can vastly improve the handling of your car. I just went from OE bars to PST 1.03's and I have a lot less body sway without the ride being harsh. Good investment.
This might be a stupid question, but are the ends of the larger torsion bars the same size as the smaller ones?
They fit exactly like the originals. Only the bar diameter is different.
I went from iron heads and water pump,slant six torsion bars,and worn out front shocks to alum heads and water pump housing,bilstein shocks and 1.03 torsion bars. Ride is so much better. Tighter and far less body roll in turns. With a front sway bar it would likely be perfect.Now I just need to figure out which leaf springs for the rear.
All this on a big block in a 72 Duster.
All this on a big block in a 72 Duster.
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How much weight difference do you think there is? I'd say about as much as a fat Jack Russel. You'll never know it.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
That's a FAT Jack Russell!
A big block with aluminum heads, intake, water pump and housing is pretty close to small block weight.
Ok, a fat German Shepard. Bout 150 pounds give or take.
Wonder what the cost per pound is to remove that weight?
A lot.
If it helps the ride, who cares!
I’m a cheapskate. I could probably skip a few cheeseburgers and lighten up my ride a lot more cost effectively…..
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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or just put some ballast in the trunk ............ that's a joke,btw.
I got my 68 Barracuda down to about 3200 pounds and 52% front weight bias with almost no effort. Well the dual 3" exhaust was 72 pounds IIRC. and the rear seat was nearly as much, lol. Lightweight alloy wheels makes a pretty good difference, two of those 10inchers weigh about as much as one rally wheel. The alloy-cased 4-speed with a GVOD, weighs about the same as the iron-case 4-speed did, all by itself. I swapped out the ancient factory buckets for a pair out of an RX7, that weighed next to nothing.
Yes to an Alloy top-end, and yes to a lightweight rad.
But I kept the P/S and P/B
The Spare-tire well is packed with tools and spare parts. I've only ever had one flat tire since 1998.
I got my 68 Barracuda down to about 3200 pounds and 52% front weight bias with almost no effort. Well the dual 3" exhaust was 72 pounds IIRC. and the rear seat was nearly as much, lol. Lightweight alloy wheels makes a pretty good difference, two of those 10inchers weigh about as much as one rally wheel. The alloy-cased 4-speed with a GVOD, weighs about the same as the iron-case 4-speed did, all by itself. I swapped out the ancient factory buckets for a pair out of an RX7, that weighed next to nothing.
Yes to an Alloy top-end, and yes to a lightweight rad.
But I kept the P/S and P/B
The Spare-tire well is packed with tools and spare parts. I've only ever had one flat tire since 1998.
My 72 Duster with iron heads and water pump housing on the 440 was 3145 lbs. When we get it back over to the shop We will weigh it again.
The new torsion bars are heavier and we added subframe connectors . I just don't remember if the 3145 was before or after that work.
I figure a 3100 lb big block car isn't a bad recipe for performance. I am used to 4000lb B bodies and 4500lb C bodies so I hope it performs well in spite of the mild motor in there at the momemt.
The new torsion bars are heavier and we added subframe connectors . I just don't remember if the 3145 was before or after that work.
I figure a 3100 lb big block car isn't a bad recipe for performance. I am used to 4000lb B bodies and 4500lb C bodies so I hope it performs well in spite of the mild motor in there at the momemt.
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MopaR&D
Nerd Member
It's not enough of a difference that you'll feel unless you push your car to the limits and even then it's still not much. Upgraded suspension will make far more of an improvement. When I went from iron to aluminum headed 360 in my Duster I think I had to adjust the front ride height down by like 1/4-1/2" with 1" torsion bars (at the time, now running 1.14" bars) but the car felt the same in normal driving. The real trick is to move the weight to the rear more than just removing it from the front.
Ha! Put some blocks on the pedals and scoot the seat back! That way, I don't need to stop eating ice cream.
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