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How about C-bodies? I could've sworn his 73 Fury had one as well.

I remember helping someone with their door in the 90's right after high school. He wanted to replace his door on his 2 door 1973 Plymouth Fury. We took one off of a 1974 Fury in a salvage yard, man that was fun loading it in to the back of my old ramcharger. Those things were not light! But...

Here's what I used and they all work. Razor blades or razor scrapers. Very fine steel wool with windex or aclohol/water mix. Acetone (with plenty of ventilation). I usually do this as a last wipedown.

I used the following with great effect: As others suggested, razor blades & lacquer thinner. For the more stubborn areas I CAREFULLY used Acetone.

A single stage solid color isn't too bad. It's easy to lay on and simple which can be a good thing. A clearcoat will add a little more gloss and depth (especially important with metallic and pearls). A good clearcoat will add UV resistance as well not a big deal with white. Reds, oranges and...

Hmm... Good to know, I have 2 gallons of EC200. I wonder how this stuff is. To the OP, the one thing I really liked about TCPglobal is they have an OEM color library.

TCP global is alright but I typically go on www.autobodytoolmart.com and use their Kirker products. I've had really good results with them. Kirker typically sells their paints in 3/4 gallons then you buy a quart of activator/hardener (single stage) or reducer (two stage then clearcoat) I haven't...

You're talking about overspray correct? Or are you talking about rubbing/polishing compounds? Is this urethane enamel paint? If so, once the paint has cured, you can use denatured alcohol and wipe it off. If that doesn't work you can use lacquer thinner (again this is risky as some urethane...

Need more inspiration! So I can get started on mine! :worthles:

Nice... I'm going to paint mine soon as well. Kind a brown/copper pearl color. From Auto body toolmart. (Kirker paint brand). About the same price per gallon. Yours look very good.

There are single stage and there are 2 stage paints. Single stage is pretty much paint on and then dry. You can buff it for a glossier finish but it will still not be a crystal finish nor will it have any "depth". Trade off is that its cheap and easy to use. 2 stage is two part, more in common...

First off make sure you have a thick enough clearcoat for this. I at least use 3+ coats, I first start off using 1500 grit, then I use 2000 grit to sand down runs and orange peal. Once the area is smooth and level (but will be like a chalkboard finish). Then that's where I start buffing. Start...

Hope this helps: I am not sure this is fully 100% accurate. Should be Dang close.

Any updates? I'm looking to eventually get Fiberglass hoods, and from the looks of things this place is one I'm going to avoid.