High Impact

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devo

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Hi guys just wondering if some of you older painters would explain the process of the what would happen in the factory paint production line in the early seventies.Why you ask?
MY aussie A body valiants factory colour is sunfire yellow which is very similar to the American lemon twist,top banana which id like to go for.The products PPG,dupont right?so does this mean no clear coat?just shoot the colour then buff?Any imput would be great thanks guys.
 
There are single stage and there are 2 stage paints.

Single stage is pretty much paint on and then dry. You can buff it for a glossier finish but it will still not be a crystal finish nor will it have any "depth". Trade off is that its cheap and easy to use.

2 stage is two part, more in common with metallic and pearl finish paint although solid colors can be used. First its the color coat and then you spray several coats of clear coat to give it gloss and depth, and then you can make it shine even more by wet sanding and buffing it.

In the 70's to early-mid 80's I believe they used Acrylic Lacquers. Okay stuff just not durable, but scores of colors.

Nowadays they use acrylic urethane enamel. More durable, great color choices, but not cheap! There are good quality ones and there are ones you avoid.

I've used HOK, Nason, PPG and Omni with great results. All I've painted was motorcycles so far. My next endeavor is going to attempt to paint my Duster, going to experiment with Kirker or Summit autobody paint.

CAUTION: Be careful with Urethanes if you are going that route! They have a chemical catalyst called Isocyanates, deadly if you breath enough of it in or if enough of it gets on your skin.
Just ask me, I know. I thought just painting without a mask for a couple of minutes to touch up an area wasn't going to hurt me. (hey, I was young[er] and stupid, thought I was invincible). I had to go to the ER to get that crap out, and put me on the nebulizer. I walked in shivering as I had a fever of about 103-104, tunnel vision, and a headache from hell.
 
http://m.autotraderclassics.com/article?id=223616

ATC: How can one find which paint companies make these colors?

M.B.: PPG, in my opinion, has one of the best interchange libraries for matching factory paint codes. For instance, I just opened the book to a random page in the AMC section and looked up a 1963 Rambler with the paint code P1 Classic Black, then to the right of it is PPG code 9000. Any reputable shop can then color match to that code, then you have to make sure it matches the vehicle or what it originally looked like if you are doing a total overhaul.


ATC: Are these interchange codes only for PPG paints, or are they universal?

M.B.: Primarily it’s set up for PPG products, but the nice thing is if want to use any other painting systems this is a good baseline. Most other manufacturer’s colors, such as DuPont, Global, or Sickens, can generally be interchanged off the PPG code.


ATC: How can one find which companies reproduce period-correct paint?

M.B.: If you mean the “original” look, then it’s more in the skill of replication of sheen than [using] “period-correct” paint. Considering changing environmental laws and EPA mandates, most of the paints, lacquers, and enamels used decades ago are no longer manufactured. So it not only becomes a color match, but about the shop/painter having the skill to replicate whatever look it is you’re after. Like creating an orange-peel or low-luster sheen, as none of the really old paints had a real high gloss to them. That’s the kind of stuff most people do either for NCRS, or as a standard replication of the original paint. Also, remember even with a vehicle that still has its original paint, it has faded after being subjected to years of environmental abuse and probably won’t be as it was 30-40 years ago–so matching that may not be somebody’s idea of “original.”


ATC: So is paint/color matching subjective?

M.B.: Absolutely! For instance, the factory could paint [a series of] cars the same color but have them come out differently, based purely on paint runs. There are many variables that affect the way a color appears on a vehicle, such as nozzle size and ambient temperatures. We have a yellow 1973 Cougar in here–when we look up the paint code the factory lists two different yellows with two different mixtures. So even back then, they realized they had issues. However, the most subjective factor in all of this are people’s memories, which can diverge wildly from even the most faithful representation of the original color and finish. The key is to communicate what you intend to put on their vehicle, and make sure it matches their memory.


ATC: So in essence, you’re using modern tools and materials to replicate original paint finishes.

M.B.: Yes, because even if you could find it you just can’t use 30-year-old paint. Just look at house paint that’s been stored for just a few years, it turns into a gelatinous mess. It is the same with automotive paints: even unmixed they still have a very finite shelf life. The trick is to first match the color, and second–especially on a concourse restoration–is to use the technique that best replicates the original sheen/finish of that car.
 
Hey their,ive used a base coat with 2k clear coat system before and seems to work well however this was a metallic very close to plum crazy.Now obviously top banana or even go green are solid colours and would you be best to use the 2ksolid colour system without the clear coat and buff?did the high impact solid colours roll out of the factory with a clear coat?
 
oh and Tantibus -74 you sound very lucky their must have poisoned youre system quiet bad im guilty of doin silly stuff like that myself.
 
There was no clear coat of any kind, on any color, in the '60s-'70s. Two stage paint with clear coat didn't become widely used until the late 1980s.
 
Ok thanks 69 340 GTS,thought that was the case.So if you were to go solid high impact non metallic, 2k no clear coat or base coat 2k clear coat?
 
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