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Thank you. Still haven't had time yet hopefully this week I can get to them.

thanks redfish ill give it a try this week. If both test ok plus the ivr is new (led is flashing) what would be the next step.

Replaced the ivr yesterday and cant tell on the temp side yet but fuel looks like it wants to move and does only to the empty line. Tank is full. Gauge will bump a tiny amount if I tap the window. OK what now.

Thanks joe im going to go play now.

Anybody have a link or lead where to find the wiring for a trunk release. Thank you.

Thanks red ill get a newer one. I did notice when I replaced the gas tank and sending unit the gauge never read full with the new ivr unit in. Is this related or is the sending unit off.

What are the reasons for not using the oe style. I have a couple spares I would like to try this week maybe narrow the issue.

Forgot about that. I do have a ground off the gauge panel but that's been there for a long while. Ill check my ivr I believe I have a replacement.

I believe last year maybe 2 years ago I did replace that while I was cleaning the cluster up. Things have been working good up to about maybe a month ago.

I believe last year maybe 2 years ago I did replace that while I was cleaning the cluster up. Things have been working good up to about maybe a month ago.

Ill have to check, so far all I checked is the fuse and nothing coming in.

On my 67 dart my fuel and temp gauges have quit. Nothing has been changed since they were operational. Any help is greatly appreciated.

That explains things. Thanks for the comments.

So I found the engine info tag and its a rh rotation. Still curious on the slip on cover. Maybe to keep oil off of something. In taking this motor apart its opened .060, balabced pistons and rods, painted oil valley, valve train almost new. The id tag says run min 93 octane. Must of been a monster.

I recently picked up a marine 440 and am cleaning and using what I can from it. Will the electronic dist work for auto use? Any ideas what the cover is for? It slides on and off. The pic is a spare that was thrown in for parts only the one in question is much cleaner. I was curious on the cover...

Thanks 67. I had splattering with the squareback but things seem OK with this one. Now on to the wet air filter

I've been following this and have almost the same problem just no light issue. I check the voltages and I have: Batt to Blue wire @ idle 13.50/70 2000 14.6 Case to Blue: idle 13.50/70...

Cool I wont worry about it right now. I wasn't sure as it had the mounting bracket and factory wiring on it, if anything it looked important.

The condenser to the ignition coil had the wire fall out while I was attaching things. Its the original from my 67 so its lasted a while. Is this a necessary item. If so how can I replace it or am I still good.

I just got mine to work, apparently the socket wasn't grounding properly due to age and time sitting I guess. I moved it around a little and now its good. Hope yours is as easy also.

Hey demon322 let me know what you find I'm having the same issue but on the drivers side. When I pull the socket out the signal starts working but it back and it quits. I also struggle with electrical. Good luck.

Could there possibly be a short in the socket ?

I did the HEI conversion on 2 slants one built one stock. What a difference. Will probably do it on my third.

So I went to do a quick test light check and when I removed the socket the turn signal came on after like 2 seconds. When I go to plug it back in theres a small spark between the socket and the housing then the light quits. Odd it only does it on the one side running lights are good.

I will check the voltage today yes it is the correct bulb

So I finally resolved some issues on the 67 dart. New headlight sw-cluster lights went out, found dash wasn't grounding properly so removed and ground new sw and cluster. Resolved. Replaced brakelight sw but still having an issue with the drivers side blowing the turn/brake part of the bulb...

Thanks for all the great input. I found another 67-69 board in great shape so I just used it but I am going to try the brads on the other.

I have a couple of pins loose and one that pulled out on my cluster circuit board on the 67 dart. Is there a way to reattach/stiffen them or are new boards the way to go. They are so over priced id rather fix them since nothings wrong other than.

Thanks BillGrissom. I checked with the seller and the alt is a 60 hopefully that wont add to much juice. Ill look into the bypass also. Thanks again for the help.

Got the squareback also ordered a new internal/old case VR for now. When I swap motors Ill get the GM items. So far the one piece on the bracket has worked good for me. So I'm wondering if these changes with the headlight relay also will help prevent wiring overloads, changes being the Alt...