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That makes sense.

Here's my question. If you look at the picture that I took you will notice that the one on the right is a colded than the left. The heat number on both number 12. You can see in the photo that the numbers are the same except for the hex head. I would really like to know. Thanks................Ted

Thanks guys. I got it fixed.

Unfortunately I'm without the old to compare it to. That would have been great if I had it. Plenty of threads on the screw. It seems to be very narrow in the switch it self. I'm wondering if anyone here has had a issue like this one in the past. Ted

Hello. I'M having a problem with a new signal part. As the photo shows it doesn't go all the way down. Has anyone had this problem. If so what did you do to fix it. Thank you in advance. Ted

Why did you remove your first respond?

Is there a 1974 book that has a visual view of this part. I know is was bad and its no good but I want to remove it without causing a big issue. Thank in advance.........Ted

Just to let you know I'm selling a cd ignition. [FOR SALE] CD-1 Daytona Sensors Ignition System Ted

Check this guy out. He's got all sorts of stuff for those machines. Paramount About Us Ted

No. I'm running on a motor plate. I would suggest using the bracket kits from A-R Engineering. Denso 60 amp kit, small blocks | AR Engineering

Here's what I'm using. Denso # 210-0106. This is from 1987-1991 Toyota 4 runners. Ted

I'm no expert but from what I understand you need a 12 volt supply to one of the fields in order for the charging system to work correctly. I apologize if I've just opened up a can of worms. Ted

If you have a later style alternator (dual field) one of the fields gets switched 12 volt power and the other goes to the electronic regulator. You can tap into the one that gets the switched power. That's how mine is. Ted

I do not know anything about the Pertronix wires. I'm running a set of Jegs house brand 8m.m. wires on my unilite. Their kit comes with both straight and 90* ends. I used the 90's. So far I'm happy with them. I hope this helps.............Ted

You might want to talk to the guys at FBO. They do a lot of distributor rework and they are familiar with Pertronix. FBO Ignition, Distributor tuning and Carburetion Professionals, FBO Ignition systems, Ford Ignition, Mopar Ignition, Ford Distributors, Mopar Distributors, Ford distributor...

This is really good info. I'm planning on ordering a Bare Bonz kit for my Demon in the next few weeks. Did you install any type of relays for your headlights? Thanks......................Ted

You can pick up a vac. gauge at the auto parts store. They're not very expensive. It's a real handy tool to have in your tool box. it's a big help when you start to tune your carb also. Ted

If you own a vacuum gauge use that to set your initial timing. That will give you a good starting point. Here's how it's done. Hook your gauge up to a non ported manifold vacuum source. Then advance or retard your distributor until your get the highest reading on the gauge . Then turn the...

Getting back to the original question. For those of us who still run a ballast. What is the best method for choosing a replacement? Thanks................Ted

Pretty cool video! Something just came to mind. When I bought this car last year The wireing in the engine compartment was awefull. So I set out to tidy it up. While I was doing this I noticed a wire running outside of the harness down to the starter relay. I could tell that it wasnt factory...

OK, I'm going to have a chance to work on this thing this week. But I have a few more questions. After I splice the 2 yellow wires together can I eliminate the relay all together? If so where do the other wires go to, and can I eliminate them as well? I'm attempting to clean up my engine...

Thanks for the help guys!!! That ugly thing has been driving me nuts since I bought this car. Thanks again..................Ted

So you're saying, I can just splice the 2 yellows together and I'm good to go. Correct?

Can someone I.D. this relay. I do not see this on my wireing diagram. This is on a '74 Dart Sport. It was originaly a 6 cyllinder with a/c if that helps. Thanks in advance.................Ted

Do those diagrams from Clasic Car Wiring show the a/c wireing too? Ted

This was really strange. It turned out to be a blown fuse. I was getting low voltage right to the main power feed to the dash gauges. I followed that down to the fuse box and found the fuse had 12 volts on the feed side and only 5 on the other side. I've never seen anything like that before...

I'm having the same issues right now on my Dart. I'm reading only 2,5 volts on the blue wire that goes to the sending unit. Is this a correct voltage reading or is it really low? Thanks in advance..........Ted

I was just reading about this today on the Mad Electric web site. Installing relays and a volt gauge in stead of the amp meter is high on my to-do list now. Ted

There are halogen tail light bulbs available that are a direct replacement. They are part # H1157 made by Eiko. I have them in the tailights on my bikes and they are twice as bright as a standard 1157 bulb. Plus they only cost around $5.00 a pop! I looked into the LED replacement bulb and like...

I could use one for a '72 Demon. Thanks.............Ted