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I use 2" lowering blocks with my 002/003's and the frt perch flipped over 275/60/15 MT ET streets, It gives a decent wheel alignment in the front. The higher the rear generally sits the Less (negative) Camber ya get in the front. Ya want a bit of positive camber....

Ya $400 is Pricey for 2 upper ball joints. $250 incl Parts is more inline.

Well, Ya found a welder and a welding machine! But, I'm on the other coast. I was planning a trip at some point to meet up with Waggin (curtis) sometime in the future. How fast you looking to get it done?

Bushings are all the same 70-76' a-bodies. The UCA's from a 74 will work fine, just make sure you get the large upper ball joints.

Ryan - Pm Me! I have the Special Tools and the Press to get the Job Done. I'm Palm Bay exit 173 off 95. No Charge ! Though I work better when I persuaded by a six pack of beer :toothy10:

Far as I understand it Pete, you just need an open ended lugnut with a certain amount of threads showing to stay Legal for NHRA. How many threads you need showing, I'm not sure. I was told by a tech inspector, "To Lose" the Chromed ones I have, replace em with open ends n I'd "Be Fine"... With...

Need I mention, that torsion bar is now Garbage since you have heated it, I't will be Brittle and I suggest you NOT Reuse it.

Pm Me with the legnth I may have one laying around, Eric

Jim, I know what your talking about, you just need to center it all, so to speak. If the control arm and k frame are right side up....... There's the 1"x1" lower bracket that the bolt threads thru.. Just need to be generally centered before assembly, then there's there the Elephant ear the bolt...

I was gonna say there are 2 washers that go inside then slide bolt thru, Wasnt sure it's been awhile since i took one apart....Hope that's problem solved.

I'll see if I have an old one layin around to measure for you tommorow. Stay Tuned...

A bit late, but you couldda warmed em in an oven or hot water to make them abit more pliable/strechier...

Easiest is with the special tools available. I bought them from Mancini Racing. The pivot shafts came out easily but even with the "special tools" I wound up , pounding, cutting, chiseling the outer shell out of the lower control arms. I cut a slit with a 3" cut-off tool at 90 degree intervals...

You should be fine. I am running 275/60/15 on 15x8 wheels with 4 1/2" backspace. 73 Duster, Stock 8 3/4 and I still have 1/2"-3/4" tire/spring clearance. So you'll have plenty of clearance.

If you plan on removing K frame as well as the t-bars you can simply.. set frt of car on good jackstands, put wheel chocks in frt of rear tires... unbolt k frame while supporting it on a jack and slide whole k frame w/ lower arms n t-bars forward. A tow strap around the k frame n my pick up...

Rocco..... I'm Exit 172 off I-95. Cocoa Beach is roughly 40 mi north of me.

Rocco, 1st Question is what is the intended use for the car? Lots of options.. with plenty of opinions .. with $ Spent... By the way ... Palm Bay Here :headbang: Judging from the pic thats an Awesome car!! I like :blob:

IMO ya made the wrong tire choice. Should have used 275/60R15's. The rims and spacings are correct. Plan A .. Different tires Plan B .. Roll the lip, not cut.. Rolling it will add strength to the area. Plan C . IMO the best...Re-arch, replace leaf springs so they sit 1-2" higher.

Actually Yes......, BUT it involves removing the engine, disconnect LCA from spindle, then unbolt k-frame, "Pull" the K-frame forward using a tow strap and vehicle. Supporting the K-frame with a jack, making sure the car dosent fall of the jack stands. I did it that way bacause, I didn't have...

Mine were stubborn, to come out as well.. SO, After undoing the tension on the bars. I supported the Kframe with a jack, undid the 4 bolts, lowered the k frame couple of inches, attached a tow strap to the k frame, other end to my truck and gave a gentle tug till it slid off the bars n fell to...

Cant see the drivers mount, but it looks exactly like the one I'm using for my 360

Yeah , That's typical factory welding of a K-frame, I just pulled one and it didnt look much better. Weld splatter n stuff everywhere, nothing you cant clean up with a 4"-5" grinder and a DA Sander.

Jim, Whats the RMS Website? I was considering a set of magumforce arms. Maybe not now...

:thumbup: Yeah , but isn't it just easier to spend the $ and weld em'/ get them welded by a pro.. The 1st time??? Why spend all that time and effort drilling holes and bolting them in when welding them in has the same effect, if not better. Long run you save time and $. I'm thinking Swingerman...

That would be a mistake to bolt em in and go back later and weld.. As, you'll never get the metal as clean as you can now. Try n weld it later, almost guarantees a pourous weld. Sand blasting at a later point would probably work, but it also makes more work, nevermind the mess. Be Patient...

I wound up welding them in AFTER I drilled and bolted them. :banghead: Luckily I had given it some fore thought and cleaned the metal just in case. Just weld em'

Well I have a set of stock axles, just wondering if it was worth the upgrade/expense to a set of Yukon's or such. I'm thinking the car may see 550HP on Nitrous.

Ouickie question .. How much HP/Torque can a stock 8 3/4" axle take? Thinking of going Yukon/Strange/Moser with out the green bearings. What's the best axle for the value? The Yukon's?

How about slipping some shim stock between the spring perch and spring. It will work like a lowering block. Not sure if would affect anything else though :scratch:

Actually, I was talking about the Tool to remove the LCA Bushing and the tool to remove the LCA pivot shaft. I bought both, but havent used them yet, maybe today since I'm held up on building the cage. I've never had to use the tool for the torsion bars, mine came out easy.