Idler arm question - again

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rebeldart

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I'm trying to rebuild the front end from a a '73 Swinger, don't have the old parts so nothing to refer back to. I ordered an idler arm from Rock Auto and when installed into the "carrier" on the K-frame, there was about a half inch of slop where the bushing (2 1/16") slid up and down on the bolt within the space - so I picked up a TRW one from Advance today - same thing only slightly longer for whatever reason (2 3/16"). The "carrier" or "gap" measures 2 7/16" and doesn't look bent - I'm about to ask PST to measure for me and send it if it's right - but I'd rather have Moog or TRW - what gives ?
 
rebeldart said:
I'm trying to rebuild the front end from a a '73 Swinger, don't have the old parts so nothing to refer back to. I ordered an idler arm from Rock Auto and when installed into the "carrier" on the K-frame, there was about a half inch of slop where the bushing (2 1/16") slid up and down on the bolt within the space - so I picked up a TRW one from Advance today - same thing only slightly longer for whatever reason (2 3/16"). The "carrier" or "gap" measures 2 7/16" and doesn't look bent - I'm about to ask PST to measure for me and send it if it's right - but I'd rather have Moog or TRW - what gives ?
Click to expand...

Did you install the flat washers on top and bottom of the idler arm? Mine was the same way, you have to use the 2 washers.
 
I'll be double checking tonight - heard I could add thicker washer(s) if necessary. What threw me is the difference between the Moog and TRW - strange.
 
I did the same on my 73..much research and found that I need the 1/2" wide rubber gasket that goes on it. It came with my Rockauto part.
 
My bad - since I'm starting from bare K - I can't find a decent pick of the assembly. Looks like washers do in fact go INSIDE the "carrier". I just assumed they went outside under the bolt head and nut (seems like they'd be there as well (?)
 
I was gonna say there are 2 washers that go inside then slide bolt thru, Wasnt sure it's been awhile since i took one apart....Hope that's problem solved.
 
'64 Cuda said:
If it takes washers, couldn't you use different thicknesses to move the arm up or down to help eliminate bumpsteer?
Click to expand...

Yes on the passenger side. BUT you'd have to have a bumpsteer guage setup to know to move it up, down, or just leave it. If you do the passenger side only the driver side will move the opposite direction around the pitman arm pivot(ball joint stud)

So you have to move the pitman arm of the other side of the center link close to the same amount. You can't move them too independent because the idler arm is only a plain bearing designed to be level. It's not a ball joint like the pitman it. So you can't twist it much. Both side need to basical move up or down together for the most part.

The MP Chassis book suggest putting fender alignment spacers under the steering gear to rotate it so the pitman will end up moving up and down.

On the circle track race cars I work on, we run sperical rod ends and you can just put spacers on the inner or outer tie rod ends. That way each side is independent.

Here is Carroll Smith doing bumpsteer on Sam Posey's Trans Am Challenger in 1970:

1RaceTAAlign.JPG
 
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