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If the carb is flooding the needle and seat may have trash in it, the floats may also have taken on fuel or they are just out of adjustment. It's not abnormal to have some leakage at the throttle linkage bores especially on a 30+ year old carb. Get a kit, rebuild it and check the floats to see...

I used the thick FelPro gasket paper and just tapped it out with a small ball peen hammer. It's old school but works just fine even today. A little practice and you'll be a professional. Pics to follow of my W5 tunnel ram set up with 2 750's. Sounds absolutely awesome and the the throttle...

Where's the fun in that?

Since I just purchased a tunnel ram I've been looking at linkages myself. Jegs has some reasonable priced stuff for both inline and sideways mounted carbs.

I'm sure the issue is fuel related, that is really all there is on a diesel. As stated check and change your filter first. There were issues with the stock lift pumps, There are retrofit kits from Mopar to put an electric pump in the tank like the newer ones have and bypass the stock lift pump...

It's main problem is the fuel bowl is too small. Fine for just a street car but not for racing, you can run them dry.

Just like a parts guy. That piece of chrome trim too long to fit on the shelf? No problem, just fold it in half. lol

Hmm, never saw a Benz on fire though. Mostly just Fords.

How come Fords are the only vehicles to come equipped with these devices? Could be that they are the only ones most likely to catch on fire? Have you extinguished a Ford lately?

Well there's your individual throttle body injection system, I'm sure it's not cheap and the one shown is for a small block Ferd.

You can get custom made individual stack electronic injection for just about anything these days. I can't remember the name of the company but I saw the ad in National Dragster a little while back. Casting heads for $300? Well maybe if you work at or own the foundry but machining them is the...

The 2.2 turbo cars were all multipoint injected. There were the early throttle body injected cars from 83-85 non turbo with a single butterfly throttle body but that system sucked out loud. It was total garbage, I don't see ever getting eight of those junkers to work all at once on one engine in...

I would personally love to go this route but again I can't justify the cost for the outcome. My buddy uses a Mega Squirt on his Dakota stocker TBI. We actually were able to tune it as well. lol

Since mine was a race only car I didn't use a filter, just an air cleaner base with foam glued to it.

No you can't use copper, you can buy a 20 or 25 ft coil of aluminum line from Jegs. They also have AN fittings with hard line adapters that will make your connections without using a lot of braided hose. Try to stay away from the rubber hose.

I did this mod on my 360 with W5 heads. I don't think it runs any cooler but it cools down faster. Mine is a race only setup so that's important to me because my engine doesn't like to be above 160 when I leave the line. I ran my hoses into the crossover below where the t/stat would be. I run...

"nitrophyl" Geez, it's hell getting old. :)

Sounds like you have a newer lean burn carb. Are those wires hooked to a solenoid on the back of the carb top? If so it's a bowl vent to keep the fumes from escaping into the atmosphere while the engine isn't running. So that needs to be hot and ground with the key on. Having said that I...

You can port a carb, if you know what you are doing. This could yield extra CFM's for you. Or better yet, just buy a bigger carb. I'd recommend the 850 Speed Demon. The naysayers will chime in with That's Too Big but remember the Thermo Quad was even bigger then that and it was put on stock...

Moparmal has some good info there. Also check your cable, they can start to fray internally and cause it to stick. As for the stalling and stumbling you may have sunk float(s). Those phenolic floats are known to take on fuel. If just one is sunk you can tell the difference in weight...

The blue pump is different than the red pump. You absolutely need a regulator with a blue pump, not so with the red. I run two blue pumps with 19 psi springs in them. Two regulators both set a 9 psi. with my Demon carb. Never had a flooding problem.

You shouldn't need the regulator at all. I'd leave it off or if you want to hide it mount it to the outlet of the electric pump. The mechanical pump does not require or need a regulator. In fact the red pump does not need a regulator either.

Yes you need to sort them out. In my experience though the larger carbs have improved low speed drivability. The exact opposite of what the current thought is.

Personally I'd just use the electric pump, you don't need the mechanical at all. I use two Holley blue pumps, one for each bowl.

I think I would wrap the pump in some sort of rubber insulation though as just laying on the tank floor is bound to wear a hole in it.

It's supposed to be totally sealed from the passenger compartment and the fuel cell has to be vented to the outside, preferably through the trunk floor. Don't quote me because I can't find my rulebook right now but I believe the spec is .040" aluminum or .032" steel. You can seal the edges...

I've been thinking of converting my car to alcohol for some time now. The initial cost is kind of high though.

These were around when the available heads were very limited in performance terms. Now that there are so many good flowing heads out there you could probably make a case for its use. I'm sure I could adapt one to my W5 heads and I wouldn't mind giving it a try but I sure can't spend the kind of...

When ever I see one of those old Holley spreadbore carbs I think scrap pile. I never had much luck with them. I much prefer a Thermoquad.