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Dropped off my engine at the dyno place today, to get hooked up and ready to run tomorrow AM, so....I could give my entire focus to this problem. After reading all your posts again and again, I took a look at things and I THINK I might have found it! I think. The first pic is just a shot...

Decided to check and make sure my calipers were sliding ok and not getting hung up or anything. What I found is bothering me. I took off the pads, reinstalled the caliper to check the range and ease of slide. A little rough, but not bad. Re installed the pads and found that installed and...

Thought I'd shoot you guys a pic of my dist. block and one of the whole set-up. The rotors are 10". Piston diameter is 2 1/4. Pads seemed a bit odd. The outer pad is worn at least twice as much as inner. Seemed odd with only 3-4000 miles on them. Also, it just seems like 10" rotors aren't...

Well, my car's pretty light. 3209 with me in it. I THINK my master has a 1 inch bore. It's a Raybestos #mc36406. It's the second one, so far. I do have a Russell prop valve to the rear. Also I think EBC's Yellow Stuff pads are NOT ceramic. I have to get this sorted out. I just spent a...

Well, I guess this is a "revisited" post, sorta. Hope someone can finally help me sort this out. 4 years ago I did the Scarebird front conversion on my 71 Demon 340, which had the factory big drums up front. The conversion went on fine and thought I had no problems.....until a deer ran out in...

The Raybestos is the one I'm looking for. Rock Auto probably has it, but they don't show bore diameter on all of their MC's. I also heard somebody makes a 7/8 bore. That would be the ideal one for me.

I need a small bore(under an inch) master cyl for disc front and drum rear. Anybody have a part number? I tried a couple places and only found a 1 1/32 bore. That's what I got now and it just ain't cuttin' it. No power brakes, so I need all the pressure I can get.

Nobody? OK. Which master cylinder will create more brakeline pressure, a small bore or a larger bore?

Hi guys. As some of you may remember I did the Scarebird front disc conversion on my 71 Demon and had some "mushy" pedal issues. Well, all your advice finally got me a nice firm pedal. The problem is, the car just doesn't stop very well. Might not notice it unless a green light turns yellow...

Well, FINALLY got a decent pedal. Bled and bled after installing and adjusting a rear prop. valve and the pedal feels ok now. Not rock hard but ok. Stops ok too. Now, my dash brake light is on. Everything ok.....I;m guessing it's something with the distribution block throwing the switch on...

Looks just like abodyjoe's pic. Raybestos #MC36406. What's the diff between mine and MC36426? Went through the whole bleeding process again after installing my rear proportioning valve and things feel better, but still not that great. The car stopped better with the old drums up front. Sumpin'...

I'm pretty sure I bought a disc/drum master. I know it was a 71-73 Dart cylinder. You tellin' me they even made a Dart with 4 wheel discs?

Think I got it all down, guys. Gonna try everybodies suggestions tomorrow night. Might as well plumb the rear proportioning valve in before I try for the perfect bleed. I'm gonna start fresh, with Revhendo's instructions. Hope it works. Had to trailer it to get lined up today....all good...

Ahaa. Now I read an old post that says I have to bleed the distribution block/proportion block.....whatever you want to call it, seperately before bleeding the lines. To get specific, the guy said "bleed the dist. block and get it centered" before bleeding the lines. Get it centered? Makes...

Man! You got me real confused now. Sounds like you really know your stuff! Wish I could comprehend what part of the line you're saying to crack open. You mean the bleeder?

Scarebird. Nice set up. All my lines are brand new and connected correctly. Bleeders all face up. Bled a bunch of brakes in my old life.....I SHOULD have a nice pedal feel by now. I'm wondering if I should re-bleed the master cyl and start fresh from there. I recall bench bleeding it with 4 guys...

Finally drove my Demon around the block after installing a manual front disc conversion and found 2 problems. Hope you guys can help me out a bit! I installed a brand new disc/drum master cyl and also a disc/drum distribution block. Thought all would be fine. Apparrantly I'm wrong. Problem 1...

I got mine from The Right Stuff. Good people to deal with, in my experience.

I only bought the one kit they offer for 10" drums. Marc at Scarebird wouldn't give me a definite yes or no on the Cragars. He said "probably". He's really a good guy and busy as hell. Name a car built since the 50's and he's probably got a kit for it. I guess it's hard to know all the details...

I needed a master cyl anyhow, so bought a disc/drum type, and a new disc/drum distribution block. Should be good to go....Soon! Did a new stroker this winter, which turned into a front susp rebuild, which turned into a rear susp and then frame connectors and so on.. It's been on jackstands...

Yeah, that's a nice kit too. Very similar to the Scarebird. Thing is..I wanted to stick with my Cragars AND be able to put the Ralley's back on if I sell to some "original" guy someday. Had to stick with 5x4 or spend a ton on new wheels.

I bought the whole kit for 485 bucks.Comes with everything including drilled rotors. Bolts, hoses, clips...the whole shebang. Coulda save a hundred bucks or so chasing all the parts my self. Install is a piece of cake. Starightforward brake job. I don't know yet how it'll stop......I ran into...

With a beefy stroker going in and a front suspension rebuild, I decided to go with the Scarebird conversion. I figured it was the only way to keep costs down and I really wanted to keep my Cragars. After laying in the garage a couple months, I finally got everything "mocked up". Thought I'd...

Wow! That's a gret deal. I woulda went with SSBC myself, but wanted to run the Cragars I have. I coulda used wheel spacers but that's a no-go at the strip. The tech guys can smell wheel spacers around here. Great deal, great product... you oughtta be smilin' like a butchers dog.

I was wrong. Year One doesn't even have one.....SOMEBODY'S gotta know where to get one.

Anyone know where I can find one of these, without taking out a loan? As you can see, mine is seriously wounded.

Finally got my rod out of the MC. NOW the question is......do I need something to keep the rod in the new master cyl? Oh. Yeah. What about my MC to firewall seal? Since mine is cracked, do I need a new one? I can't figure out why there's a seal there anyhow. Year One wants a fortune! This...

I will definitely let you all know exactly how much and how well I like it. I already went for the "wheel kit", which includes everything. Nuts, bolts, bearings...the whole she-bang. I really didn't feel like chasing odds and ends. I'm in for $495 PLUS 25 bucks for a junkyard master cyl and...

Wonder how many guys got that one. Gonna try all mentioned methods in about 10 minutes.......so if and when I get it out, do I have to beat it in the new MC?

OK. I give up. I can't get the thing out no way no how. It's sitting in my vice right now. I'm hopin' some damn fairies come yank it out overnight. Is there some trick or something?