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'65-67 Mustangs use the same pistons and rebuild kits, sort of. There are early and late Mopar dust boots. Mustangs only used the early boots. There was a time when rebuild kits had four of each. Some kits these days only have the early boots (or at least last time I looked). I bead blast...

They should. Those are slightly modified 65-67 Mustang rotors...

My GTS still has drums all the way around. It will not see the streets again without discs...

F-body lower ball joint is vastly different than the A-body unit. Just buy the joint new.

Get the spindles, rotors, and calipers. You will also need a disc brake master cylinder and prop/combo valve.

Backing plates are the same except for the missing bolt hole. BUT, I should have two extra sets that will fit if there's something truly oddball with your setup. I'd take $50 for a pair plus shipping.

The most readily available big bolt brakes will be found under an F/M/J (Apsen/Volare/Fifth Ave./Diplomat/Gran Fury/etc.). Basically any car with the transverse torsion bars should have 10x2.5 rear drums. The 11" brakes are fine, but parts are harder to get and they are heavier. That hasn't...

Nope. My son's 67 Barracuda has the tall spindle. The car handles great.

Nope, tie rod ends will be fine.

Yes, you will hear stories about the taller spindle being dangerous, but don't believe it. You will still need 73-76 A-body upper control arms or inserts for the upper ball joint (I think Dr. Diff has the inserts).

73-up sway bar goes through the k-member and has shorter arms. The calipers can be mounted either way and the sway bar interference can be solved by using short end links if the calipers are front mounted. The location of the caliper does NOT affect brake performance or bump steer.

I have to completely agree. I can take it a step farther. I look in the wrecking yards for cars with new brakes and then there isn't anything else to buy........Makes it under $100.......

Pull a rear drum and measure whether they are 9" or 10".

Any big bolt backing plate/drum combos will work. I have found sets in the self serve wrecking yards around here with new shoes and just swapped them over.

Pictures would help.

They probably have a different piston size or are metal pistons instead of phenolic.

There may not be any difference. A check of part numbers will tell the story.

The point actually is that the bolts were determined to need to be beefier as there was obviously enough beef in the ball joint body.........

I've heard that the only difference is the size of the bolt holes. Drill them out if that's the case.

Yep, that's the location (or so I've read).

I think the adapter needs an adjustable rod. I haven't used the late master on a disc swap so I'm not too sure what retains the rod. You can pull the residual valve out of you drum master and use it. I'm surprised you can't find the 73 master in stock in SoCal. Did you try any other year disc...

Yes.

I think they hang out on Moparts (maybe Dr. Diff or ??)

The hydraulic side of things should be fine since you already had disc brakes on the car. There is a company that sells a tapered sleeve to be able to use the large bolt spindles on the small ball joint upper arms.

Andy, pedal feel is fine with the "small" rotors and a 73 disc brake master. I'm not a big guy and I don't have extremely strong legs, but my son's Dart is no problem to bring down from speed (highway speeds). I agree for road racing more brake is a good idea.

Power brakes are completely unnecessary in an a-body. I have had to birng my son's Dart down from 70mph with a blown front tire and had no trouble. I have never tried to fit power brakes in any of my big block builds and I'm not about to start now.

The K-H discs are great, BUT probably the weakest point is the THIN rotor. No way to fix that either. They also don't need power brakes. My son was autocrossing his 383/4sp Barracuda with them until he cracked a wheel center on the home-built 15x10 SBP wheels. That was the only reason we...

Since you should be going with rebuilt calipers, this won't apply, but when just replacing pads use a c-clamp to get the pitsons back down the bore so that new, thicker pads will fit. Bleeders point up. Make sure you get the right size brass seal washers for the banjo bolts (the bolts that...

The calipers and pads are retained to the caliper adapters by two small steel plates held on with one small bolt, each (two per side). The caliper then just slide off. Might be a little tight, just use a small pry bar at the bottom. If you can do drum brakes, you can do discs (AND wonder why you...

No. They are completely self-adjusting IF the seals aren't stiff AND the hoses are free-flowing. Use a little grease (I like lithium, but others use different grease) on the sliding surfaces.