HELP drum to disk break swap lower ball joint same or diffrent

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chubsgts

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68 dart had 10" drums

im in the middel of a break swap i went to install front lower ball joints and the disk break bolts do not go thru the ball joints drum break ones are smaller and fit thru ball joint but are to small for spindel i was going to reuse my drum ball joints i was told there the same???

im guessing i need disk break ones but i want to check with you guys first
i was told by a few guys there the same when i was getting my parts together im not sure if they are the same just smaller holes i may just need to drill mine out sense there brand new i hate to spend another 200$

thanks
 
im going with the kelsey hayes 4 piston 4'' bolt pattern
 
Sorry, but the K-H discs used a different ball joint than the drums. MOOG K785 and K787 for the drums and K7021 and K7023 for the discs. It's not all bad though, the disc brake ball joints are 20 bucks cheaper and available at Rock Auto.
 
thats funny locally the disk break ones are 98$ drum ones are cheaper like 70$

dame o well some one need a brand new set of moog lowers freshly painted satin black installed on car but never had a mile on them looks like ill be losing money again
 
I've heard that the only difference is the size of the bolt holes. Drill them out if that's the case.
 
The ball joints are different, Do not drill the ball joint. It has a thickness needed for the hole that is in it. Its your steering for god sake. Get the proper new parts. Remember the ball joint bolt that threads into the spindle gets a jam nut on the other end.
 
its my steering yes and drilling out the ball joint HOLE thats already there by 1 mil is not going to affect any thing strength or saftey wise if it would have mopar would have done alot more racing and beefing in that area
i have ordered my disk ball joints and when i pick them up monday i will post a follow up if there different if there the same minus the hole size you bet im gonna drill them.

im taking 1 mil off a hole witch in return is taken that number and cutting it by 4 because theirs 4 quarters or two half's what ever you want to say in a circle and do the math on material left on the ball joint the thinnest spot is still over a 1/4 inch thick
i think it can can handle a hole drill one size over

i build crash test cars and barrier impact cars for a living and run a accelerated sled for crash testing you would be surprised at the cobbled up cheap a$$ thinned down stuff the big three to to keep money ma mopar was just a little better at over building back then compared to now
 
Anyone just go to advanced auto - autozone - oriely web sites first and pluck in model years to see the difference in parts.Simple and get answers in a flash
 
Didn't your post start with "help". Its is your car do what you want. You asked, I answered. If you were committed on buying the cheaper lowers and drilling them or your old ones to save money that is your choice. Why ask for an oppinion if you are going to critisize answers you don''t want to here. Just build it as another crash test car . Seems you have the experience in this field and shouldn't need to ask for anyones oppinion.
 
I pulled some from the shelf and they are different. You will have to buy a set. I have two that are in good condition you can have. You just pay the ride. Next time don't be so jumpy at alittle advice. Steve
 

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dodge71demon said:
Anyone just go to advanced auto - autozone - oriely web sites first and pluck in model years to see the difference in parts.Simple and get answers in a flash
Click to expand...



none of these items are carried in stock and most of the time they just show a random picture or carry the same pic over from the other part in this case one drum or disk ball joints

i tried that at the store the other day and i got the same pic and two different places its a good call thou some times its just that easy
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I pulled some from the shelf and they are different. You will have to buy a set. I have two that are in good condition you can have. You just pay the ride. Next time don't be so jumpy at alittle advice. Steve
Click to expand...



steve i was not trying to be jumpy at all if it came across that way im sorry
i was just saying that i just bought the drum ones got them all painted up and installed and then decided to go over to the disk breaks and was told they were the same so i forgot about it intill the install.
I got a nice surprise when they did not work and i cant return them so instead of 200$ ball joints now its like 350$ in parts and if they were twins i cannot see why taking a mill off would hurt any thing sense they are some solid parts
 
Hey , I might as well jump in here too. NOS Mopar joints have the same forging number regardless of whether the're for drum or disc application.The early, '72- mounting holes
are 3 3/4" CL-CL The one in the picture with the pimple on the side, looks to
be a '73+. Those measure 4 1/4" CL-CL. Early drum brake joints have 1/2" mounting
holes, and those for discs are 9/16". I wouldn't advise drilling them with a standard drill
I use a 4 flute core drill, (drills much more accurately). As someone said, its your steer-
ing.
 
if i go this route ill actually put them in my proto mill or cnc and yes cut them with proper bits not just by hand with a meijer drill bit to break off inside and screw me over
good looking on them part numbers and saftey of the proper tools thou
part numbers dont lie i guess
 
Hey chubs, I feel like Im stalking you LOL. The last few repairs you are doing/did are the same as what I am doing or going to be doing. Im gonna have to take a look at the disc setup vs my old drums and see whats up. Good info again guys
 
I wouldn't drill them either; I like my steering to work. I'm not going to second-guess the engineering that went into making them as robust as they are.
 
ok well after looking at a buddys org mopar parts book from his dads dodge dealer
the part numbers are a twin from drum to disk the only change was a d added on it from what i seen
also got my other ball joints in today at the local parts store went there on lunch
and sat down with the guys there had my lunch and looked with 3 other mopar guys
and they were twins mine to disk ones all measurements were exact not close but exact
except for the spindel bolt hole.
he also had a set of new moog drum break ball joints on self same year as others
they were twins also minus the spindel bolt holes

so only difference i seen in all of this was a bolt hole and a letter added to a part number and a littel red card board circle that was on the disk break ball joint stud said
for disk breaks

to each there own and im not saying to drill yours out
i did drill mine out on a mill today and installed them no problems yet but im still building so i will let every one know where i end up in next few days
 
The point actually is that the bolts were determined to need to be beefier as there was obviously enough beef in the ball joint body.........
 
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