Search results for query: *

Put a 1/2 inch bolt and nut through the existing hole (that has a plug in it), align it, and weld it.

Early (1975) ODs had iron cases. This one is most likely an OD. It is out of an F-body and WILL fit an A-body with the proper corresponding parts (Bell housing). I had some leftover parts and built a small bearing A-body overdrive in an iron case. Sold it to a buddy of mine for his original '68...

I don't think that was available when I had my last 18-spline (early trans, missing bearing retainer). I got good money for the trans without it, though. My son still has the A-body 18-spline that I built in the early 90s.

Small bearing 18-spline front bearing retainer is not really available (might find a used one, but...). To build an A-body 18-spline you need a 308 bearing case (I've used an iron overdrive case) and all of the 18-spline gears and the 18-spline bearing retainer. AND, a different bell housing to...

I don't think it's the same one (I seem to recall blue, but....). The one I saw was in Dinuba (middle of nowhere) and was very rough (by California standards).

There were also some 273 four speed GT's built. I don't think I even looked at what this one was. It wasn't for sale, but disappeared shortly after...

There were quite a few, but one of the rarest is one that I looked at back in the mid 90s. It was a convertible with factory air (at least I think it had air). The console was gone, but the Hurst stick was still there.

Every OEM shifter I have had did NOT have a hole in the reverse lever. It had to be eyeballed. I have also found that my son's 18-spline likes to be adjusted one turn off the pin nuetral. It probably compensates for some worn parts in the gear box, but it just keeps on keepin' on so we won't...

It's not difficult to do, but it is a bit of a Chinese puzzle. Read the manual a couple of times and then tackle it. Most parts are available from Passon or Brewers. They may even have a manual for them.

I have always used the brass stop rings in the trans, unless they are in really bad shape. Clean it up, check the clearances. It's not a bad idea to replace the bearings and seals. You can do all that for under $100.

Yes, it was built in Oct. 1970. Oct. 1971 would be a 1972 model year tranny.

No, you can't use mismatched parts. If you want to keep the small bell and flywheel then you will need a custom 10" clutch set.

To upgrade the clutch to 10.5 you need to change the bellhousing along with the flywheel. This may require a modification to the engine side bracket for the bell crank. That's what I did back in 1982 in the 66 Barracuda that lilcuda has now. The clutch lasted, but my fab skills were not that...

And, the reason to do this swap is to make it an easy swap into a car with a small hole bell housing.

It is very easy to make a standard small bearing 833 into an overdrive. You just use the small bearing and front bearing retainer from the 1:1 box. All gears and the main shaft need to swapped. Use the cluster pin from the 1:1 box. I did this with spare parts back in the early 90s and the guy...

I'm going to guess the "18" of the first number is really a "1B" which would make it a '71. The other number PP833 3409 is the model number of the trans and the date it was built (10,000 day calendar or something like that).

OD (fourth) will be the noisiest gear in the trans (besides reverse), especially if the trans has a lot of miles. And, yes you are lugging it badly with the rear gears. I would also check for wear around the cluster gear pin. That will make for a noisy trans, too.

I also suspect slipping clutch. The adjustment might be way off.

Yes on the 66 small output shaft. I found that out the hard way in the early 80s.

That's a late model fork. You need an early fork. Brewers or Passon should have what you need.

You need to keep adjusting the rod until the pedal returns all the way, but you still some free play between the throwout bearing and pressure plate.

There's actually quite a bit of leeway. Here's a pic of the cutout in my old Dart. This will show the location of the shifter.

I've never installed an aftermarket, but the gap is there because they copied a late piece. Just get a piece of sheetmetal and form it to fit.

It'll only fit properly in the correct location. Lay it down and spray paint around the edge. Cut about 1/2" inside the paint line. Then screw it in place or weld it. I like screws.

The best fit is an a-body four speed. You want to avoid the early ones (both with the Ball and Trunnion u-joint and those with the 904-size output shaft).

Additives won't help long, if at all. Yes, you need to take the trans all the way apart to replace the reverse o-ring.

/6 cars had the 9.25" clutch. 273s had a 9.5" clutch.

That's out of a VERY RARE car. Less than 50 built.

It's funny Lee didn't make any comments about how BAD the clutch linkage was on his 66 when he got it. YES, it was the one I put the bigger clutch in.................My fab skills have improved ever so slightly in 25 years.

When I had my 66 Barracuda I installed a 130-tooth flywheel and a later small block bell housing (in that case it was aluminum). With those parts you can install a 10.5" clutch (easier to find, too). You will probably have to fabricate some linkage parts, though.