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28-7/8" 65-67 B Body

The oven cleaner you sprayed on the engine worked a lot better than you thought it would??

My old Chrysler would do that with a worn Pitman arm (or loose mount). I'm sure any joint could do it tho.... they do love to find the most common speed the things been driven' at, like 70 mph etc.

Parking brake cables are usually right there. Isnt there one on the other side?? Bracket for the hydraulic brake line should be up in the tunnel over the pumpkin.

You assume that we assume lol. :poke: Please, drive on.....

Espo is a good choice. Air shocks are not for drag racing. You can probably toss the traction bars too.

If you buy new springs, ESPO is out your way IIRC... they can set them +1" or +2" in standard or heavy duty if you choose. Good deal, I recommend them. My self, I stand on the gas in my GTS and the rear rises about three inches lol. :poke: Really wish I had one to drive on the street tho...

Maybe once you work out the info, that tid-bit can be added to the sticky?? An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list

Special built converter for your current set-up??

Dr Diff has some conversion joints too if you don't find at Brewers.

Wouldn't worry,,,,if it's there, it should come right out once you've removed the circlip.. It'll come right out with the bar.

WOW, you just gave me a slap of nostalgia lol. I remember those on one of dad's old Mercury's, but I'm too young to remember if they were worth a hoot.

Flex Seal® Screen Door in a Boat Commercial | Flex Seal® - YouTube Let us know how it works lol :poke:

Honestly, since you said, you dont know where it leaks..... I'd find out where it leaks....every two days is bad enough that you should be able to find it.

No pix?? Well, take it out and see what flies out lol.

Rare Parts Pitman Arm 1968-1969 Dodge Dart Plymouth Barracuda 20492 - FCRC Machine 1968 Dart 383 Steering - Moparts Forums Maybe it's just pitman arm thats special, not idler??

Pretty sure i've a different part listing for the BB A's in '69 as stated in post #5..... had a bookmark somewhere for it.....

55" overall length with 20" front segment 1960-1976

Anybody video it for you?? Youtube is your friend here.

Id ask for your threads to be consolidated and stop starting new ones for the most comprehensive help on the subject.... just saying.

For looks, or launch?? TIA

Here's a rusty pic or two.... The stance of the car is much the same as the sweet yellow Demon in post #28.... and much of that is attributed to the big tire... I'm sure this setup picks the rear up slightly, but the real purpose is to allow the rear to rise when launching without topping out...

Ill get a pic or two... I looked at the block, it moves the top of the shackle centerline forward two inches (2" square block), and the shackles are now 5" center to center.... Now 5" is longer than stock correct?? So, maybe not so tough to spring them together??, and i can see where it would...

The front segment holds the wheel centered in the opening, just as the factory springs did. Surprised Im not seeing anyone else saying this but..... on my racecar which uses SS springs, the tires, which are pretty big at 29.5x9x15 and still tucked in, they retained the necessary arch and gained...

Whoa!! youre way ahead of me!

I though there was some info about this on TTI's website.... like they tell you to double check and give a link when you are purchasing headers, but anyone can go look. ***EDIT*** Footnote #39

Pitman arm was different, and could be his problem. Idler should be correct, as long as its for a '69 Dart regardless of the engine.

My '69 Dart does it, with a 187 pan. It's an original BB car, but now sports a small block "K" frame and Schumacher mounts. Your mounts might be sagging??, especially if they are biscuit mounts. Mine is solid on the drivers side, and still does it. So my solution is shim up all three and...