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Don't know much, but I would think to make sure the rotation is correct? Didn't some marine engines run in a different rotation, when two engines were used?

Glad you got it running.

Since you're taking it in, no worries. But when troubleshooting you only do ONE thing at a time..... when these cars don't run in the run position, it usually is ballast resistor, like 9.9 times out of ten.

Agree. But only if you still have points distributor. Don't believe, look it up online. Cheap, prone to going bad, ALWAYS carry an extra one.

Just do one thing at a time and eliminate it. Unless someone here knows for sure exactly what it is...... Troubleshoot it.

That's good! If there are no defects/melted plastic then that should be ok. Also the comment about the NSS is another thing to check out. It's a matter of elimination. Start with the easy stuff like connections. But get a plan, and go through it one by one.

Bulkhead connector is notorious for going bad. Might be that. Reason I say is it sounds like what my old '71 Swinger used to do. Previous owner hacked the wiring, and it did not like that. Hopefully for you it might be something more simple. Keeping my fingers crossed!

Or the bulb itself is bad...... I know, I know. Simple and some may think smart ***, but it is still in the loop.

CCA per CI is what I was told in the past. The past being before all the added demand on electrical system with AC, stereos, pw/pl and so on. My 71 with a 318 got a 640 CCA one, forgot what brand. Was a 5 year battery, bought in late 70's, never needed another one as car was totaled in 89. I...

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/listview.aspx?Product=A&Sub=C

No horn, dome lights, brakes, anything? Anyway, listen to 67dart273. One of the better informed electrical guru's. I had a bad bulkhead connecter on my old 71 Swinger. Everything would go blank if that came loose, but you could see where the connector had overheated at one time. My best advice...

Did you check the fuse first?

I will say this, 67Dart273 is the MAN when it comes to electrical problems. You will learn a lot from him and RRR.

It has been my experience in the past that when the windings go bad in a starter, through age and or heat, they draw more amps. IF you want to, take the starter off and have it checked at a parts store. Hopefully you have another car.

Personally, I would rewire it with either OEM for the Pnp ease, or go to a Painless or other company and do it better then OEM. But that's partially cause I don't know much at all about the wiring on these cars.

If you don't mind Ebay, try this. Cheap and easy to hook up, eliminate the ballast resistor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Chrysler-SB-318-340-360-Ready-to-Run-Electronic-Distributor-Vacuum-Hei-/171569357509?fits=Year%3A1970%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3ADart&hash=item27f254a2c5&vxp=mtr

Might be a difference in MaH, or milli amp hours. I am probably wrong, so maybe a tech whiz can tell us.

LOL, glad you got it figured out. That's the main thing! Still easier to work on these old cars than the newer ones.

Or, if you don't like it you have good taste, if you do like it you have bad taste. I don't like it either. It's going to get broken from rocks and other debris. But I'm over 30 so what the hell. LOL All in the eyes of that person. Now, how in the hell can you tell intent from what was...

Ok, reread it again, and I see what you did. Now I will back off and say no more. Good luck, hope you get it going!

Try jumping across the terminals of the resistor. My bet would be the resistor. If it does not run when you jump the resistor ITSELF, after releasing the key, then could be the condenser in the distributor. Do you have a point set/condenser distributor? But if it starts and then dies when you...

Knows his stuff, thats for sure. Just don't ask about Windows OS..........LOL

Graphite, as is used for door locks, is what I used. That and some WD40 to help it slide down the sheath. I noticed they sell aerosols with the graphite in it, but that might be messy unless you are careful when you spray.

This was true with my 71 Swinger. The 'hot' wire would lose connection to the interior, and everything would be dead, would have to jiggle it to get it to reconnect. Once new bulkhead connector installed all good. Hey, I was early 20's, give me a break. LOL

Good! Quick easy happy ending is always the best.

Also, ignition points or electronic ignition. With points ignition if the condenser is old and quits, same thing happens. Please try to give more information. Like points or electronic ignition, when was the last time it was tuned up? Also, did it just die, leaving you stuck, or slowly fade...

Not an electrical wiz by any stretch of the imagination, but you could have a short somewhere. Starter solenoid on the wheel well maybe?

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Yeah, bdusted440 is right. Year One has the harnesses and the junctions so its plug and play. Still factory so there is still that issue. But if you're an electrician, Painless or some other way may be better. Its for you to decide. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

I like the Skip White I got from eBay. Cheap, good customer service, and it works. You just have to bypass the ballast resistor. I would suggest buying more modules for safety sake. Basically plug and play.