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Some say that it is an Achilles heal but I have two 67 factory big block a bodies never had an issue with the idler arm. I know some people have stated that the k-frame can be reinforced at that point. Honestly I think it is an over exaggerated issue. Carl

67 big block k-frame only has one location to bolt idler arm to it. 68 & 69 big block k frames have a bolt through design that bolts up at two locations. I don’t know if this carries over to small block and slant six k frame?

Thank you for the responses. I ordered the correct ones from PST.

This is the replacement. Just too big.

I’m in the process of replacing my front factory sway bar bushings with the PST replacements I ordered and discovered they are too big. I measured my front sway bar keep in mind factory 67 383 gts. It measure roughly at .870 inches thick. My polygraphite PST replacements have an inside...

I thought the bars were 894 and 895 for my car. I have a 67 GTS and I’m pretty sure that they were never replaced until I changed them. I though they were different based on the numbers stamped into them. I thought 894 and 895 were .89?

Rick Yes it believe what I did was tighten down on the lifters which were low on oil vol until they bottomed out. I’ll be sure to look at the number of threads showing after following the correct procedures. 2-3 being ideal for the adjustment. I also want to thank everyone that has shared...

Thanks a ton everyone for all the info. Just to be clear if I was on cylinder one TDC on compression stroke I would adjust the intake lifter when it is bottomed out on the the lowest point of the cam. This is evident when the exhaust lifter is all the way at the top and just starts to drop...

Thanks you everyone for all the feedback. I believe I have a much better understanding of how things work. If you look at the second pick you can see the upper rocker hold down that has been machined by Mike at B3 racing. I had the geometry kit made by Mike now my rocker roller tip is right...

Jake I half some questions to what your response was. I was told an easy way to adjust lash on rockers is tighten rockers down on pushrods until you can’t spin them by hand. You do this with all the rockers as you spin the crank around 90 deg at a time until you have been around at least 2...

RustyRatRod I should of been clearer. When I say used lifters I meant I’m putting the lifters back in that I was using with the other pushrods and 915 heads that were on. I didn’t see a reason to buy new hydraulic lifters if the old ones were fine to use.

I’m in the process of installing my custom length pushrods and Harland Sharp Roller Rockers onto my 383 with upgraded edelbrock rpm performer heads. I think there are a couple problems I’ve run into where I could use the expertise on the boards. First I had custom pushrods made because my OEM...

I’m at the point where I need to reinstall the damper on my 383 after making some upgrades. I used a puller to get it off with no probs. Should I just pony up and buy the correct install tool so I don’t damage anything? I have also been reading and many say to lightly grease up the end shaft...

I have a factory BB 67 Dart and it’s a 4 speed. The tri-y headers drivers side will not fit unless it is modified for a BB 4 speed car

Both those darts are sweet and hook up nice. Thanks for the video.

The 67 idler arm is more expensive than the 68 or 69 but I think people are making more out of it than need be. I have both k frames in my two cars. One has a 67 k frame and one has a 68 k frame. I don't know how inferior the 67 k frame is but I drive my GTS dart pretty hard and not in just a...

I like valvoline vr1 high zinc levels and don't need zinc additive when you run it.

I believe big block a body's came with a solid fan with spacer. If I'm not correct I'm sure others will chime in.

I should mention that the car is raised up about 12" on jackstands at 4 corners. In front under lower control arms and in back under rear axle. It isn't leaking, maybe occasional oil residue around some of the bolts but I've never been able to make sure the bolts are torqued to spec.

I need to get to all my oil pan bolts to make sure they are snug. If was thinking I could put a floor jack at front edge of motor, loosen the two engine mounts, block it with a piece of wood to not damage block and raise motor carefully to get to all oil pan bolts. My concern is how high can I...

I'll have to second BB-Dave. I'm not sure if the 69 440 M code cars had Chrome Covers? I know for fact all 383 a bodies built between 67-69 had chrome.

Actually the pan has 893 stamped into the bottom of it in big numbers. To save a big chunk of change just use some of the other pans mentioned. Only reason to get the 893 pan is for a correct resto. Carl

There are basically 4 choices. TTI headers. Schumacher headers, AccurateLtd repro manifolds and the originals. They all flow better than the originals. If you want the car to be numbers correct than go with the original manifolds but the real deal is quite costly assuming they aren't broken...

The number you're looking for is 893. The same for yrs 67-69 all BB a bodies.

Matt I sent you a PM but your mailbox is full. I had some questions for you in reference to your 67-69 Barracuda registry you have started. Could you please clean out a few PM's I was hoping to send you the message. Thanks Carl

I think you should be carefull. The drivers side manifolds changed part numbers when a 440 was put in due to the taller height of the 440 vs 383. You might have a problem with the drivers side manifold because it barely fits under the steering column on a 67 with a 383 in it. I don't know off...

The correct pan will have an 893 stamped into the bottom of the pan. That was the same pan used on all BB a bodies 67-69 except hemi. I warn you thought the pan is quite pricey at least $300-400 for a nice unmolested one. Carl

Johnrobbsmusic If I was you whatever you do don't cut or weld on the car if you can't reverse the mods. If you car is a real 67 Formula s 383 4 speed it is very desireable and worth some nice coin if restored correct. Anyone else agree with me? Carl

Many of the parts companies that make reproductions make a repo big block fan shroud for an a body. The correct repo shroud for the original 68 & 69 big block cars was part #2785614. Keep in mind that it does matter what radiator you have in terms of how the shroud will fit to the radiator and...