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I've posted elsewhere but since it's a Dart thread. 1970 360 / 727. Good for mid to high 12s and a lot of fun cruising around. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QJQBf3SnEs&list=UUj5I0Pyo674HZYspkgb3Vaw&feature=share

At the track a few months ago. Lined up next to a new camaro SS in my rough looking 70 dart. Spectator on video actually said something along the lines of "Why would you even bring that out here". I got the jump when the light dropped and held the lead through the traps. Felt nice knowing the...

I received some info from the seller. Going in my permanent file. Wiseco flat tops, 10.5 compression, Mopar purple shaft cam 517 lift Gold Crane Rockers 1.6 Ratio Limited I know but it's what I have so far.

Lots of good replied in here. I'll work on getting the particulars. I'd rather keep it than sell it off for $500. It would cost me well over that to replicate it. It's been down the track about 4 times. Other than that it's a weekend street car that sees full throttle about as much as you'd...

I'll see if I can get the motor specifics. I had them stored on a private message, but they got wiped out.

I bought the Dart with a freshly built 360 installed. The Dart ran 12.9 at 104 with this motor in front of a 727 with a 1.9 60'. I plan to drop a new gen Hemi in the car and will be pulling this motor. I really don't know what it's worth. From top to bottom Holley 650cfm with vacuum...

This is the guy I've seen posted in every front spoiler thread on FABO. http://www.spoilersbyrandy.com/Pages/default.aspx http://www.spoilersbyrandy.com/Pages/7072DartDemonspoiler.aspx

Welcome to Fabo man. I used to fool with the import stuff before getting into domestics. I've been messing with mopars for about a year now. What type of suspension are you looking for? Solving a problem or just making it better? What particular improvements are you trying to make. You'l find...

If you do the mechanical first you won't scratch the new paint while you're wrenching on it.

Try uship.com You bid the job out then choose your carrier based on reputation and price. I just had a Dart shipped from Ft Lauderdale to Baton Rouge for under $600 and the process was easy.

I'll be down again this year.

Witnessed an incident as a small child that made me cautious for life. Motorhome overheated while on the interstate. The mechanic of our group popped the hood and attempted to open the cap to let the pressure off. It blew off and covered him with scalding water. Lots of cold water was poured...

Nice vid. Sounds good and looks like a fun cruiser. Do all of the 727s have a delay when you bump to the next gear?

The sending wire is connected well. And I've grounded the sending unit with no impact.

I'm gonna try a 33 OHM resistor and see if I can make the needle point straight up. If it does then I'll go swap the temp sender out.

This is the part. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/WT127.oap?pt=01392&ppt=C0033

Yes, I just touched the ground to the bigger part where the wrench goes. Then when nothing happened I moved it up to where the sending wire was connected.

Grounded the outside of the sender "where the wrench goes" to the neg batt terminal. Nothing. Moved the ground to the signal wire and it pegged. It's looking like a bad sending unit or one that is for an idiot light like mentioned above. I can google it if not, but does anyone know off hand...

Good idea. I had just looped a piece of wire around the threaded stud the wire running to the gauge hooks to and grounded that on the negative batt terminal.

I'll pull it out tomorrow once the block has cooled off and try that. Thanks for the heads up.

Came out of the box already wrapped with it.

correct Grounded the wire and the gauge pegs. It's been idling since I wrote the first post. Gauge hasn't moved.

Just went out and grounded the sending unit and the gauge pegged. Letting it warm up for a few minutes and see it the gauge moves. Thoughts?

Title says it. All of my other gauges work, even fuel. Water temp is dead though. Figured I'd swap out the sending unit and problem solved but it didn't go that way. 1. Found out that when you take out the old sending unit coolant will flow out making a nice puddle in the intake. :-( 2...

Thanks Zak. That kind of info is what I was looking for. It gives me an idea of what will and won't be done on this car to keep it around the 10k mark. I feel I got a pretty decent deal on the car at purchase so I have a little room to improve it.

Sounds like body work and paint are out then. It's good enough and will be the most expensive thing. Thanks for the input guys. Sounds like this one needs to stay in the 10-12k range. That gives me a good idea of a budget and what can and can't be done.

I was thinking more of the 12K to 15K range. If it went through paint I'd bump the price to 15k to 18k. I can see it just touching 20k with the Weld RTS wheels added on to paint/body. Is this reasonable?

Long story short I put too much money in my last project and while it was fun I'd rather not do the same with the Duster. I've been looking around at for sale ads trying to figure out value the car might have, but I'm not seeing much to compare it to. The cars either seem to be rusted out...

I started a list. I'll just have to take a pic.

About 7k rpm with the tires barely hanging on to pavement.