Complete LA 360: What's it worth?

-
M

MattP

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2012
Messages
259
Reaction score
13
Location
Baton Rouge
I bought the Dart with a freshly built 360 installed. The Dart ran 12.9 at 104 with this motor in front of a 727 with a 1.9 60'.

I plan to drop a new gen Hemi in the car and will be pulling this motor. I really don't know what it's worth.

From top to bottom
Holley 650cfm with vacuum secondaries
Weiand Intake
I'm looking for the cam specs but it's fairly aggressive.
Stock stroke with flat top pistons at 10.5-1 compression

Motor has around 7000 miles on it.


I'd like to sell it complete from carb to oil pan , but I'm not sure where to begin on an asking price. Can you guys shed any light? I'll answer any questions I can.
 
without any real knowledge of whats in it, i believe alot of would'nt really be able to give you an great opinion or number, i'd be interested in taking a chance on it from you if the number makes sence, if you decide to sell shoot me a PM with your number you think its worth!!!!!!
 
I'll see if I can get the motor specifics. I had them stored on a private message, but they got wiped out.
 
How hard did you beat on it? Be honest in your transaction, you'll get a fair price!
 
When I sold my old 340 on Craigslist recently I posted a short video showing the engine running, no smoke out the exhaust, no water in the oil, no oil or bubbles in the radiator, etc. Better yet, sell it while it's still in the vehicle. Be honest with any potential buyer and you'll get the most money. That being said, without any receipts for parts or work been done, it would be a core to me. $500-750 depending upon how well it ran on the test drive.

Edit: I know it may be apples to oranges because you know your engine runs good, but here is a desirable 73 360 on my local CL complete for $175

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/4431235523.html
 
Well, just the carb and intake should be worth an easy 250. Now, if it has a good set of complete heads on it (X ?, J ?, 2.02 360 heads ?, mild porting????), the heads alone can bring an easy 250. If it has been bored with good pistons, and the cylinder walls look great, the cam, timing chain, water pump and all are there, that has to be worth at least 300-400. I would say 800-1000 would be a fair asking price, because someone would have a very hard time trying to buy a 360, bore it, put heads, intake, carb, and cam kit in it for that price. Especially if it is in the car and the buyer can hear it run, see the oil pressure, watch the heat gauge, I would think 1000 bucks carb to oil pan should not be hard to get out of it
 
318willrun said:
well, just the carb and intake should be worth an easy 250. Now, if it has a good set of complet heads on it (x ?, j ?, 2.02 360 heads ?, mild porting????), the heads alone can bring and easy 250. If it has been bored with good pistons, and the cylinder walls look great, the cam, timing chain, water pump and all are there, that has to be worth at least 300-400. I would say 800-1000 would be a fair asking price, because someone would have a very hard time trying to buy a 360, bore it, put heads, intake, carb, and cam kit in it for that price. Especially if it is in the car and the buyer can hear it run, see the oil pressure, watch the heat gauge, i would think 1000 bucks carb to oil pan should not be hard to get out of it
Click to expand...

+1
 
If you have receipts for all parts and work done, you might could get a good bit for it, if not, then 300-500 at best.
 
318willrun said:
Well, just the carb and intake should be worth an easy 250. Now, if it has a good set of complet heads on it (X ?, J ?, 2.02 360 heads ?, mild porting????), the heads alone can bring and easy 250. If it has been bored with good pistons, and the cylinder walls look great, the cam, timing chain, water pump and all are there, that has to be worth at least 300-400. I would say 800-1000 would be a fair asking price, because someone would have a very hard time trying to buy a 360, bore it, put heads, intake, carb, and cam kit in it for that price. Especially if it is in the car and the buyer can hear it run, see the oil pressure, watch the heat gauge, I would think 1000 bucks carb to oil pan should not be hard to get out of it
Click to expand...

-1

a K for a 360 is hard to swallow unless its built to a degree with receipts. Its just not that expensive to build a mild 360 with your own parts and work for under a grand. parting it out may yield more cash as noted.
 
The best way to sell that Matt is to keep it in the car. Get as much additional info as you can and at least let a prospective buyer see/hear it run. A chance to drive/ride in it.....even better. If it's gonna be a ready to bolt in engine, and you have some time to wait, i don't see why someone wouldn't give you a easy 1k+ for it. People with $$$ are out there for a good drop in hotrod engine, if you have the time to attract them.

Good Luck, Rick
 
if it ran a 12.9 - that's a pretty stout 360 as far as I'm concerned ... not blowing oil, or any other obvious issues - seems like $1000 is reasonable to me.
 
i'm interested in it AND i'm an hour from you. not that it matters much, but what year block is it? do you have a hemi fo it now? maybe we can work out a deal, i have this available
 
Without documentation of what was done to it and when I wouldnt pay more than $500. JMO though.
 
AdamR said:
Without documentation of what was done to it and when I wouldnt pay more than $500. JMO though.
Click to expand...


x2 - less than a grand anyway. 7K with racing isn't fatal ,but it's not fresh either.
 
Lots of good replied in here. I'll work on getting the particulars. I'd rather keep it than sell it off for $500. It would cost me well over that to replicate it.

It's been down the track about 4 times. Other than that it's a weekend street car that sees full throttle about as much as you'd expect it to for cruising around on the street.
 
So it see full throttle at every stop light ?

Im picky, If I dont have proof of what was done/when I have to tear it aprt and go through everything. I wont ever buy a "done" car for that reason. After working in a body shop doing resto for a few years you quickly find out that most people cut corners.
 
AdamR said:
So it see full throttle at every stop light ?

Im picky, If I dont have proof of what was done/when I have to tear it aprt and go through everything. I wont ever buy a "done" car for that reason. After working in a body shop doing resto for a few years you quickly find out that most people cut corners.
Click to expand...
Adam, I can appreciate your concern for perfection, but if his 360 runs great, sounds great, has great oil pressure, great compression, no leaks, no smoke, heat gauge is steady, then its probably a great motor. Those small block mopars are tough, and if I were interested and the above all checked out to be true, I'd drop a grand + in a heartbeat for a drop in motor. Remember, this includes the carb too. You would NEVER buy a core 360, performance cam, carb, intake, valve springs, and all the bearings/rings/gaskets, perhaps bore and hone, pistons, etc etc for that kind of money.....
 
With my luck it would blow up a week after I bought it no matter how good it ran the day I picked it up.

I have bought used motor before but it came with a list of parts, all the paper work and a dyno sheet. I also bought it from the shop that built it and paid over $1000. Its all bout the proof.
 
It's all about finding the right buyer. I sold a 400 horse 318 a few years back for 1500. I had a list of what was done to it, a few time slips, the parts that were in it, and videos of it running. sounds like a decent engine to me for what it's running in the quarter. if you have no drivability issues with it, like overheating, or pinging on pump gas, on the street, clean it up and put 1700 bucks on it. see what happens.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you have receipts for all parts and work done, you might could get a good bit for it, if not, then 300-500 at best.
Click to expand...

AdamR said:
Without documentation of what was done to it and when I wouldnt pay more than $500. JMO though.
Click to expand...

moper said:
x2 - less than a grand anyway. 7K with racing isn't fatal ,but it's not fresh either.
Click to expand...

add me to that list. without dated legit receipts from a reputable shop i'm considering it a core that needs to be gone through.


and a 12.9 at 104 isn't really hard to get a 360 to do.
 
You would NEVER buy a core 360, performance cam, carb, intake, valve springs, and all the bearings/rings/gaskets, perhaps bore and hone, pistons, etc etc for that kind of money.....
Click to expand...


you're right, but if i did buy all that and assemble it i would know who and how it was built. and it would be fresh.
 
I agree with almost everything said here, but most of us have a knowledge level far above the average hot rodder. Take a newbie/novice for a ride in a 12sec car and then tell them they can buy that engine for a grand or so to put in there stockish 318 car.....I've done it years ago and almost made guys pee their pants...lol. You see where I'm going with this. I was always honest, but it's the main reason why I suggested Matt leave the car together until the engine is sold. That ride always sells.
 
I received some info from the seller. Going in my permanent file.

Wiseco flat tops, 10.5 compression,
Mopar purple shaft cam 517 lift
Gold Crane Rockers 1.6 Ratio

Limited I know but it's what I have so far.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top