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Got any photos of what you did?

Yes, sir, you can.

I was able to order 4 of them, no problem... Received them a couple of days ago!

Ordered 4, thanks for the link!

I think I would pull the timing chain off and set everything back to where it is supposed to be using a degree wheel and then go from there making sure the distributor is phased correctly, the reluctor is right side up, the plug wires are in the correct order and on the correct plugs and it is...

Here's what I think is happening: I think you are have the damper set to your timing mark but you are NOT on the compression stroke. So then when you line up your distributor, it is actually 180 degrees off. You can confirm you are coming up on the compression stroke by removing #1 plug and put...

when you say that you had to advance it to 40 degrees to make it run, which way did you spin your dist. to achieve that? clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Just to make sure, Is the damper set at 13 degrees BEFORE top dead center? I would probably set it more like 18-20 degrees before TDC, and then rotate the distributor until the rotor lines right up to the #1 plug wire tower. at that point the reluctor should also be lined up to the magnetic...

Maybe the dumbest question yet, but since this all started after you swapped out distributors.... Do you have the damn plug wires in the right order? Asking for a friend. Time to start posting some photos! 4 pages now and my bet is that it has to be something fairly simple. Maybe your timing...

So, when you had it at TDC and both valves were closed, did you also check to see where the rotor was pointing to in the dist. cap at that point and position?

I'll bet that "loud clunk clunk clunk" from your first post was the noise it made when your timing chain jumped a tooth. I think you really need to use an actual piston stop in the spark plug hole to precisely verify your true top dead center.

@yellow rose - Can you explain this part more?

Dumb question maybe, but are you absolutely certain that you don't have the new distributors 180 degrees off now? Maybe that's why it will only fire once you turn it 40 degrees...

That's the combo I'm using brand new Billet dist but the 6AL and 2-step is pretty old and works great with my 340 stroker.

I did mention that in the first post. I scraped it clean and bolted it to the front top of the intake. That should be good, correct?

Thanks! Looks to me like I should be good to go if I hook it up the way I have it then. Just need a full 12 V signal to the positive side of the coil during cranking/start. Of course, i will clean it up and do a better job with the connections. Then will check for spark and proper timing before...

Hello again, Some of you know that Jake (my girlfriend's 14 year old son) and I picked up a used 440 that we plan to clean up and put in his Dart. It came from a '78 Dodge RV and we also got the wiring harness from that RV. We plan to fire it up on the engine dolly in the next day or two after...

About $72.00 1992 DODGE DAKOTA 5.2L V8 Starter Motor | RockAuto

I've painted and/or clear coated a few of them over the years, and never any problems with paint or clear on the coated windings.

I did the same thing a few years ago! 15 bucks and it works awesome on my 340. I found mine on a mid-90s full size Dodge Van

I ordered a set of the Digitails for my 67 Barracuda... You must have one or more members' posts blocked who are/were discussing the Digitails here in your thread, or something...? Trailbeast replied first with a link to them.

I think I am ordering a set for my Barracuda... I'll let ya know how it turns out!

Those look pretty slick. I assume I could use the '69 inserts in my '67 notch taillights with little or no mods...

I just finished installing a M&H harness in my 67 from Year One. Very happy with the fit, plugs and overall quality!

Like others said, Make sure the actual switches have a ground to them and test again.

In my '67 notch, I did the MAD bypass, then I converted my old amp gauge to a new volt meter using the guts of the new volt meter and mounting it into the factory amp gauge location. Works great

Cable is most likely kinked, bent and/or needs to be lubed up properly. I would start by inspecting that first.

check all the connections???

I currently have my slots welded up so that my initial is running at 30-32 degrees with total at 36-38. No pinging and this seems to be where it is happiest and idles best. I forget what the slot measurement is but it aint' much! I think I ended up around .330 or .320. I've got a couple of...

8 initial + 26 = 34 total (at least that's how it works with the factory electronic dizzy)