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I have a Firm Feel Stage 2 PS box in my '70 Duster, it's great but if I did it again I'd go with the Borgeson. Too bad it didn't exist back in 2008, that was one of the first upgrades I did to my car.

It would be interesting to see some FEA on these systems. Looking at pics online I like the HDK setup the most since it uses a strut rod for the LCA like factory and the K-member looks beefier with more triangulation than QA1 or RMS and uses square instead of round-profile tubing. I doubt many...

I don't have a problem with coilover conversions, I just feel that they aren't for me. I like building stuff myself and learning along the way. I also like the unique feel of torsion bars and I get a kick out of knowing I'm driving a car with suspension that was designed 60 years ago but has...

Good point, I have both a 318 crank and 360 crank, I'll weigh them and see if there's a difference. Depending on when those numbers were published it could also be due to earlier 318s having the low-rise single-plane intake while 360s always had dual-planes which have more complex shapes and...

Huh, idk maybe... reminds me I need to renew my gold membership.

It's one of the big rectangular ad blocks on the right side of the website, second one down for me...

Good man, sounds like you got it all covered!

Make sure the driveshaft yoke sits the correct distance into the transmission tailshaft housing after putting those springs in! If it now sits in the right place that means the previous owner didn't lengthen the driveshaft after putting in those 22" front section leaf springs and the tailshaft...

I was initially going to say that seems like a better setup (rigidity and space) but after reading this maybe not... There were probably good reasons Chrysler engineers originally put the steering box where they did with regard to steering linkage geometry. The flatter steering column angle...

It's not enough of a difference that you'll feel unless you push your car to the limits and even then it's still not much. Upgraded suspension will make far more of an improvement. When I went from iron to aluminum headed 360 in my Duster I think I had to adjust the front ride height down by...

Skosh chart is intended for radial tires... I'd shoot for -0.5* camber, +2.5* caster and 1/16-1/8" toe-in, "Typical Performance Street" row in the chart.

Is it 4x4 or 4x2? If 2WD then to an extent yes you can go by the skosh chart. By 1985 the factory specs should be pretty close to that anyway. 4x4 will have front leaf springs which don't offer the same adjustability. My '72 D200 is 2WD and the current alignment is very "neutral"; little to...

These guys didn't use the strut rods to adjust caster, did they? That's not what they're for. Also if you adjust them at this point you will need to get the alignment done again. One tire a full inch in front of the other leads me to believe the strut rods are way off. The hard pulling to...

So that's why one of my aftermarket pivot pins was super tight. I was dumb when I installed it years ago and instead of dressing down the pin a tad for a semi-tight interference fit, I ram-rodded it into the k-member with the nut and now it's really stuck in there. Some day I'll have to get it...

Got me curious so I looked it up, proof load (max tensile load before permanently deforming) for a typical Grade 8, 9/16" bolt is 21,800 lbs. Grade 5 is 15,000 lbs, Grade 2 is 10,000. I'm sure the loads can get pretty high under hard braking with big brakes and wide grippy tires but I feel...

Kinda don't blame you tbh, it would seem that way since he quoted you first but that's the downside of this format. If we were all standing around chatting in person it would probably be a different story. I've had poly LCA bushings and PST adjustable strut rods on my Duster for years, at...

There's a difference between "thumping your chest" and over-explaining things in an effort to cover all the important details under the assumption that some people reading may not already know all this stuff. A person can spend a bunch of time and effort trying different things to figure out...

Glad you got it sorted out! Not that it really matters now since you are happy with the way it is but you could easily get the caster cranked up over +4 degrees and it would start to feel like a modern car.

There you go! Not sure I'd go so far as to say bolt-ins are worthless but welding structural members on a car chassis is definitely the way to go. I made my own subframe connectors for my Duster out of 3/16" wall thickness 2"x3" steel box tubing and 1/4" steel plate, iirc. One afternoon to...

I have 1.14" bars in my Duster and I'd say they're a bit much if the OP isn't trying to hit the track or do serious canyon-carving AND he'd need some wide low-profile performance tires in the front to take advantage of them anyway over smaller bars. IMO he's probably better off with 1.03-1.08"...

Magnum Force is garbage quality, don't buy any of their stuff. QA1 tubular arms wouldn't be a bad idea, iirc @BergmanAutoCraft sells them too. Nice, glad those mods worked out for you! I agree on better shocks, I like those KYBs for controlling wheel bounce on trucks and SUVs with high...

For the offset UCA bushings look for Moog K-7103 Moog Chassis Parts K7103 Moog Control Arm Bushings | Summit Racing The rubber LCA bushings already come in the Super Front End Kit from PST but if you go that route then don't bother with adjustable strut rods. They also sell the LCA pivot pins...

Honestly for me working with factory-style rubber LCA bushings is more of a pain than going with poly. As long as the poly bushings fit snugly into the outer shell and the LCA pins fit snugly into the bushings you're good to go, also be sure to use plenty of the special silicone grease for...

I've had poly LCA bushings in my Duster for about 8 years and 15,000 miles. I've also had adjustable strut rods for about 6 years and 10,000 miles. They're just as reliable as rubber, more so if you lubricate them once in a while. It's unfortunately a controversial subject because some guys...

I strongly disagree on not using adjustable strut rods if he's going with poly LCA bushings. I've tried the latter without the former and it didn't work well (dynamic alignment issues). @72bluNblu can give more details on this. Basically comes down to the dimensions for factory strut rods...

It'll be a very noticeable improvement when you get some decent caster in the front end. It'll be rock-solid at freeway speeds whereas stock bias-ply settings make it feel like it wants to go any way but straight lol.

OK great, that'll help me sleep at night whenever I get another A-body to put them in lol. I don't think they were indexed, I got them in 2010 IIRC and I had them in my car for about 7-8 years so I don't think they had time to sag much. Good point about work hardening too, you're right that...

Sorry if I'm hijacking a bit but I was a dummy and didn't label the 1" Just Suspension bars I took out of my Duster a while back. Is there a way to figure out which side they're supposed to go on? I know if I end up putting them in another car with the sides swapped there's a good chance...

If by standard he meant early 1970s specs with bias-ply tires, it sucks lol. Search for the "Skosh Chart" on here and that will get you in the right direction. Basically you want as much caster as your upper arms can provide (usually max around 3-4 degrees) and a small amount of negative...

In theory if your current ride height is where you wanted it and you knew your current alignment was good you could just measure from the ground to a spot on the k-frame or fender and adjust to that point with the new bars. When was the last time it was aligned, and what kind of specs did you go...