Leaf Spring installation

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FEATHERDUSTER76

FEATHERDUSTER76

The Feather Duster is Mopar's Light Weight
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
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Location
YAKIMA WA.
I've bought new leaf springs, air shocks, shackles all the new items to install the leaf springs. In researching how to do the job what I need to know is I've been told do 1 at a time . My problem the leaf springs on My DUSTER are not A body springs they sit the axle 22" back where the correct leafs sit the axle 20" back so can I still do 1 at a time or should I do this installation in a different way NEED Your help in YAKIMA WA.
 
Get A-body springs. If not, you're looking at getting a different driveshaft and possibly not enough E-brake cable adjustment.
 
cudamark said:
Get A-body springs. If not, you're looking at getting a different driveshaft and possibly not enough E-brake cable adjustment.
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I bought new A-body leaf springs .When I bought it had MOPAR leaf springs off of something that set the axle back at 22" the new leaf springs set the axle at the correct of 20" like I have the right side off all the new parts are on the new leaf .L have reinstalled the front hanger.My problem is I cant put the U-bolt on because of the 2" difference should I go ahead and take the driver side apart so I can get the axle on the passenger side I believe I can solve the drive line and e-brake Thanks for any and all help as to what to do THANKS BILLY
 
I always do one side at the time.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I always do one side at the time.
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1 side at a time is what I was told also .the springs I have have the axle nub at 20" like the A-body s/b the springs that are on My Duster know have the axle nub at 22" i include a few pictures to show what I'm dealing with hear the numbers on the spring that is on there know BO 55 then 3722291 and there is a CHRYSLER emblem stamped and the #3485

Duster leaf springs 021.JPG


Duster leaf springs 019.JPG


Duster leaf springs 017.JPG
 
Remember to sit the the weight of the car on the springs BEFORE you tighten the shackles down... And find and use the correct torque specs for the shackle nuts - it isn't that much and if you overtighten them they shear off where the threads meet the shoulder. You don't need to know how I found this out :rolleyes:
 
The torque spec on the spring plates is only 45LBFT. If you over tighten, it will cause the suspension to bind.
 
FEATHERDUSTER76 said:
THANKS I haven't had time to look that up so that will save me some time greatly appreciated F D
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Sho nuff. Also of importance is you need to make your final torque on the spring plates with the weight of the car on the suspension.
 
Well THANKS to all for Your help. I had to take both leaf springs lose at the same time, due to the difference of the axle set back going from 22" to the 20" of A-body . Got everything together and I'm waiting on the drive line had to have it shortened $250.00 which isn't to bad I guess we don't have a lot of places that work on drive lines here . After I get the drive line in will let You know it drives Thanks again to all who had suggestions
 
how difficult is it to replace the spring eye bushings...? sorry if I hijack but its sort of on subject...:)
 
I never would put 22” springs on an a-body, back of tire will be in fender lip. I’ve always tightened up u-bolts while rear is suspended in the air, it can’t turn or move off spring and can only go in one place?! Just wait for all the headaches that’s coming up now.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
how difficult is it to replace the spring eye bushings...? sorry if I hijack but its sort of on subject...:)
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Couldn't tell You I bought the leaf springs from a private party and he had already put the bushings in. So fortunately I was spared that task
 
FEATHERDUSTER76 said:
Couldn't tell You I bought the leaf springs from a private party and he had already put the bushings in. So fortunately I was spared that task
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I have recently done them on my truck they weren't bad ,figured Id go after the dart bushings also, I used a Ball joint press, pressed the middles out then dug the rest of the rubber out, and pressed the new ones in after cleaning the spring eye real good, also used grease tolube the new ones so they press in smooth. Really wasnt bad but its still some dirty labor type stuff if there alot of rust etc. But yes generally people replace the whole spring which comes with new bushings, I may go that same route as my leafs on the Dart are 54 years old...:)
 
I bought the new springs because the leafs that were on My Duster were from which ever Mopar that has a 22" back set . I bought Mopar super stock A-body leaf springs and the Man I bought them from had already put the bushings in He also gave Me new U-bolts and spring plates . Now the rear end parts are all new and A-body parts and the rear end sets where it is belongs
 
Dartswinger70 said:
How did that work? was the rear tire not centered in the wheel house?
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No it wasn't because the old leafs that were in it when I bought the car had 22" back set so the rear and set in the back of the wheel well and now it sets in the center looks good I'll post some pictures in the member restore section soon
 
Make sure the driveshaft yoke sits the correct distance into the transmission tailshaft housing after putting those springs in! If it now sits in the right place that means the previous owner didn't lengthen the driveshaft after putting in those 22" front section leaf springs and the tailshaft bushing might be worn or damaged.
 
MopaR&D said:
Make sure the driveshaft yoke sits the correct distance into the transmission tailshaft housing after putting those springs in! If it now sits in the right place that means the previous owner didn't lengthen the driveshaft after putting in those 22" front section leaf springs and the tailshaft bushing might be worn or damaged.
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I had to take the drive line to a shop .He had to shorten My drive line about 2". I took measurements to Him after looking at it he said everything on the drive line was fine .
 
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