Search results for query: *

I've always used the black ones with GM baker sealer. I never had any leaks, but they sure weren't reusable. I ordered the Moroso. I'll see how they work. Modern transmission pans come with a steel frame with a print seal gasket in it and are reusable. That's what I was looking for.

I looked in their site and they only listed had gaskets.

The last ten years I had hydraulic rollers and still had to adjust them at least once if not twice a year. I could hear valves floating at about 6000 rpm so I decided to try solid rollers this time. I'll have to see if it makes a difference.

Looked at Cometic and they only have head gaskets. I never thought of Moroso, which is weird because I have a set of their fabricated aluminum valve covers. They do make a Perm-align valve cover gasket. Think I'll try it unless I get some other good advice.

I change my VC gaskets fairly often and have now gone to a solid lifter cam and will spend more time adjusting lash this year. Are there any reusable VC gaskets out there? I can't seem to find any. a lot of cars nowadays have them on the transmission pan. It would save me quite a bit in the long...

I sold mt SV as well. I wanted the low end torque.

My Air Gap and my Super Victor did the same thing. I run the Mopar Performance covers. I ground the seating surface of the valve covers at an angle to match the intake. You can't tell by looking at them unless they are off the vehicle and you look at the bottom. Then I use Fel Pro gaskets with...

I had a Super Victor on my motor originally but I wanted low end torque, so I went to the RPM Air Gap. I love it. I ran Edelbrock carburetors for years and loved them, but I was thinking about going to E85 and most of those carbs came on the Proform chassis, so I plumbed it all into a Holley 750...

Not quite. 12.02 is the best I can get, but that was at Rock Falls, AKA Slippery Rock. Hooking up is an issue.

I drive mine on the street - a lot. That's why I went with the 200 4R overdrive. I admit I street race any fool who tries and I do get to the track every now and then. I have a nitrous plate I haven't installed yet. I can't quite hit 11 seconds on just the motor. I figure the nitrous will get me...

Dana 60 with 4.10 gears 28" Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag Radials P275/60R15 3500 stall, though I originally had a 2500. I run a GM 200 4R overdrive transmission car weight @ 3000-3200 lbs With overdrive 3000 rpm at 80 mph With OE 904 transmission 4000 rpm at 70 mph

Here is what I have: 1992 magnum block Scat 4" stroke crank Scat forged i-beam rods Diamond flat top pistons (11.8:1 compression) Total seal rings Engine Pro main, rod, Cam bearings Fluid damper Cloyes double roller timing set Cometic head gaskets Edelbrock performer rpm heads (gasket matched w/...

I'd have to look at my receipts. It's been 7 years or so. I think I bought on on Amazon. And I went with a Coolflex hose.

I leaked no mater what I did. I got some good advice on this forum. Buy a o-ring sealed housing. I did and have never had a leak since.

Sooooo ...... who makes them?

I went with an Edelbrock Performer on mine. Edelbrock 600 cfm carb. Quite possibly the slowest vehicle I have ever owned. Thus the 440 I'm building for it. I have the stupid air filter turned sideways in these pics.

I have run both Edelbrock and Holley on my 408 and had none of those issues, though I do run a dual snorkel hood scoop now, I didn't always. I run a stock mechanical fuel pump as well. What transmission are you running, a 904? And what are you using for ignition? I suspect timing issues. I have...

Taylor Made on my 408 with TTi headers. Don't need to worry about heat or shielding because there is a ton of room with the TTi.

When I took out my 318 and put in the 408, my first response was, "Holy **** this thing is fast!" That was five years ago. I'm heading to the track tomorrow and plan on beating it up some more. I love this motor.

You'd probably be even happier with a Scat stroker kit ... just sayin'.

I have Comp Cams hydraulic rollers and I have to adjust them every year, as does a friend of mine who has them. I also adjust to zero and 1/4 turn. I can always feel mine unless they are collapsed, which #5 exhaust is. It would be weird that you can't feel several.

Got her done and buffed out and waxed for the Memorial Day car show. Runs great. Starts every time.

I get sick of hearing it by the second week of the season. I usually say no, it's just a slant six, or no, I didn't want that small of a motor.

The 340 really deliver high rpm. They loved to wind up. Every freaking body in the world tells me " Great car! What's it got, a 340?" That said, I run a 98 360 block 408 stroker. Next time it'll be a 340 just to shut up the gawkers.

I finally found time to track down the issue. The interior spade terminal on the bulkhead connector was too loose and not allowing the male end to seat tightly. I could wiggle the wire and it would power off and on. Let me just say that the working quarters were extremely tight. I couldn't get...

I found intermittent power at the input to the ballast resistor. I was testing it and had no light and when I wiggled the huge mass of wires the light came on. I wiggled it back and forth and the light went on and off. So I know I have a bad wire somewhere in that mass of taped wires. I figured...

I have a wiring diagram for the Dart, but it used a four prong ballast and the Ramcharger uses a 2 prong. Anyone have a wiring diagram?

I wiggled it to see if that was the case. Once I have power, it stays until I crank or jumper the wires. I don't think it's a broken or abraided wire. I'll change the terminal ends anyway, just because there is a lot of corrosion. Ignition box maybe? I probably have another one at home somewhere.

New development. I wasn't seeing any power at the input to the ballast. I messed around with the terminal and got power. I hooked the jumper and had power to the other end of the jumper. I plugged it in to the output and lost all power, in and out. After a few seconds I got power again. I...