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Visual horsepower. Kind of like my hood scoop. They're good for 100 visual horsepower.

The Accel is so dated. And so freaking big! I only see them gathering dust at swap meets these days. I like the MSD Blaster myself.

My local NAPA has it in stock for @ $25. Echlin part # DL6120.

Yes, that is how it is supposed to ground, but they never seem to. Both my running Mopars have wires run for ground and my Duster will also when I get it running.

Not sure an alternator can overcharge. The voltage regulator's job is to limit the voltage it receives. Sometimes you will find a bad VR, but usually you will find it is not grounded well enough. I typically run a new ground wire rather than relying on VR to body ground. Also, virtually every...

I have round H6024 bulbs that I just bought the conversions for. Got them on Amazon. I found higher wattage bulbs that are technically illegal but I love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G72SKQ/?tag=joeychgo-20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BDWRAK6/?tag=joeychgo-20

I use Hella conversion lights with an H4 bulb with a higher wattage high beam. I used Slansixdan's relay kit, but have had a fallout with him, and I like crackedback much better. My next relay kit will be from him.

Ballast stays in use unledd you are running an MSD ignition box like the ever popular MSD 6AL2.

Pretty sure I found it. Now if I can just figure which wires go where. There are a lot of spliced wires in this spot and aren't factory colors. Only one is power, and I know the alternator b+ goes to that.

Tab wire from brown along with switched power to MSD box. Starts, runs and turns off. Still not charging. Only 10.6v to the alternator. My brother wants to go to a car show tonight and says cheat and run power from your battery to the alternator. I said no one likes a cheater, and he said...

Okay, the yellow and brown have power only during cranking. No key on power. The brown wire was cut of my factory harness and wasn't being used. I ran a wire from the MSD box to the yellow wire and the car started but the starter drive remained engaged the entire time it ran. If I run the wire...

That is interesting. I'll check the yellow and brown wires. Everything in the car seems to go dead on cranking, but I will physically check those two. Without cranking power to the red MSD wire the box didn't see hall effect and won't fire the coil. One I run direct power to that red wire the...

I have 12V at all four terminals key on, but lose all power to all four terminals on cranking. I jumpered the ballast years ago, it supplies full power, not stepped down power. At least when everything is working. I replaced the ballast anyway since I had one. No surprise, it made no difference.

I need some help. My 73 Dart Sport, 408 stroker / 200 4R, has been running great for 6 years. A month or so I came home from a car show and it would not shut off. Key turned off, key in hand, but it stayed running. I didn't notice it before, but I drove it a week later and noticed it wasn't...

I should have said fuseable link. My old link was bad and I replaced it with a maxi fuse. I'm going to ground the field and see if the alternator will charge like hell. Then I'll have an idea if it's one or two problems.

It uses a standard Mopar alternator, the same one used by every Mopar in the day. The only major wiring change is to the MSD ignition box, which removes the ballast resistor and also the ignition module. I have a custom dash with Auto Meter gauges with electric senders. That removed the old...

I have a 73 Dart Sport 408 with MSD 6AL-2 programmable ignition. As in every year I drive this car to Mopars in the Park, something breaks. This year I got home, turned off the key, and the engine kept running. I had to pull the ignition fuse to shut off the car. I couldn't look into it right...

I need a new ignition switch, and while I'm at it, I have an ignition lock cylinder that matches my for keys I am going to put in. I am having trouble getting the middle section off the column. I thought there was a bearing around the shaft that would slide off with a little persuasion, but the...

Some of my wiring ran behind the booster and when I applied the brake the pivot pinched and grounded a wire and my Dart died every time. Fixed the wire and rerouted it and the problem was solved. Maybe you have the same issue?

Oh, yeah, I bought my last set on eBay really cheap.

The plastic clips on the wiper transmission are broken under your dash and the linkage has dropped off. Happens all the time which is why I now go wiperless on my 73.

TIPM. We see a lot of them, and don't buy a used one because most of them have failed as well. They are expensive, but if you own a Pacifica you will eventually buy one. Listen to blown71duster and check it out, but we have replaced many of them here in the shop. Hell, if you own any mid 2000...

I ran across this at a swap meet. I was looking for a billet distributor with no vacuum advance for my 440 build. I plan on using the old MSD 6AL-2 out of the Dart with it. My brother tells me it's an Accel. Anyone know what model in case I need new springs or parts?

Just a thought ... try msdigntion.com and register. Hit the forum for troubleshooting and an MSD tech will answer and help you. I have had starter kick back since I changed from a MSD 6al-2 to a programmable. I've been looking for advice, trying different things, and generally getting frustrated...

I bought mine from fastlanewest. It is nice, but the dash panel itself is very flimsy. How is yours? Is the plastic good and strong?

Done it all on my 408. Changed to a 6AL-2 programmable, and I'm going to put the old 6AL-2 into my Ramcharger 440. It's the only way to go.

Michigan is not that far. Drive that baby over here and let's figure it out. I'll supply the beer, tools and garage. Minnesota and Michigan are practically neighbors!

Sounds dumb, but mine did just that and it was a burned out sidemarker bulb that caused it by not allowing the complete circuit to ground. My buddy told me that's what I would find and I laughed at him. He was right, I was wrong.

I wanted to do that, but my experience with my GPS I use when hunting and also the speedometer app on my phone had me worried about accuracy and satellite accessibility. That's why I went with electric gauges. I'm sure they work well, but ...