Turn Signal Troubles

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RichardJ916 said:
All had 1157's my mistake...not 1156
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AJ makes a good point about the bridged filaments too. If one broke and is contacting the other that could be messin with ya too, might want to check those just for grins.

Anyway, let us know if you find that other cam that you hid from yourself, lol, and if it works.
 
I dont think it is the Bulbs, switch out new one in the front, and switched the 2 rear one to each other to see if the problem with switch over to the oher side and still having troubles on Drivers side..
 
I would not leave ANYTHING to chance, do THIS

1..........Pull ALL 4 bulbs. TEST them on a battery with clip leads. Make CERTAIN none are bridged

2..........Make CERTAIN the sockets are GROUNDED. This is easy. Turn on "some power" that gives you lights.......like parking lights. Use your meter at all four sockets. Ground one probe, and stab the other into the socket shell. More than a tenth or two volts means poor ground

3........CHECK the socket PIGTAILS. If the pigtail insulator is screwed up, or "some low quality replacement" it may be indexed improperly, "twisting" in the socket and bridging across both bulb contacts

4........Disconnect the signal switch and check it preferably with a "large wattage" test lamp (like a tail / stop lamp) and a battery. This is because a lamp will put some LOAD on the contacts and may not show up with an ohmeter.

Get your diagram and draw it out.

You have these inputs into the switch

A........Signal flasher power TO the column switch

B........Hazard flasher power TO the column switch

C.......Brake light switch power TO the column switch

You have these outputs.....

a.........left front

b.........right front

c........left rear

d........right rear

So you can easily check the switch.

I.....clip lead battery to the brake light terminal of the TS switch connector. You should show output WITH THE SWITCH centered on both left and right rear. With the switch left, you should have power to the RIGHT rear and vise versa

With the switch in first left, and then right, check that you do NOT have any power on either front wire at any setting of the TS switch

II....clip lead power to the signal flasher wire into the switch. Centered, no output anywhere. Left, should have power both left front and left rear. Opposite for "right" turn

III....clip lead power to the hazard flasher wire and check all terminals. No output. Turn on the hazard switch. You should have output on 4 wires.......left / right front and left / right rear
 
COSGIG has a switch that I am going over to pick up tomorrow night...I want to thank each and every one of you that have help in this matter. It the switch does not fix the trouble I will revisit here and check other options. I have swithed out all bulbs, new front socket, and switched the rear bulbs with each other and the problem still is with the rear drivers side. I will look at a ground trouble tonight but with all the help here the switch will be an easy part for me to try here.

Thanks Again....

Richard
 
Sounds dumb, but mine did just that and it was a burned out sidemarker bulb that caused it by not allowing the complete circuit to ground. My buddy told me that's what I would find and I laughed at him. He was right, I was wrong.
 
Never thought about side bulbs, thought the side marker lights would not be part of the turn - brake lights but you never know. I have to run and pickup switch tomorrow it will be easy to plug into harness without removing old unit. I will let all know what happens then...
 
Since you can easily swap a switch, that is a good thing. Side markers are not involved.
 
If a park lamp fixture is finding a ground only at the adjacent side marker, there is a ground fault at the park lamp fixture.
The only instance where a park lamp grounds through a side marker is where they are wired GM style and blink together.
 
I also replaced the turn signal circuit board inside the wheel and it didnt fix the trouble.... Now what
 
"Simple." Or seemingly so..........

Get a test light, a meter, and a bag of Radio Shack clip leads if you do not already have.

"Rig" a long test clip if need be, with a fuse holder that you can clip to a battery source. This can be in the fuse panel.

Ge your diagram, draw out the colors and connections to the kick panel connector going to the rear, and "light up" all of them "one at a time."

At minimum you should be able to apply power to one wire at a time and light up

Only the two rear tail lights and rear markers

Only the left stop light

Only the right stop light.'


WHAT YEAR MAKE AND MODEL? and don't tell me "it's blue" Rusty
 
I just read this. I think you have no ground at the left rear stop/tailight, or somhow the left tailight and stop/brake light connections are shorted. That would cause crossfeed of the left turn signal energy over to the right side via the left tailight filament or the taillight lines. That would explain your first set of symptoms. I would start at the signal switch connector in the column and carefully check each connector all the way back to the rear valencefor swapped wires or a small stray wire strand or metal shaving between pins.
 
nm9stheham said:
I think you have no ground at the left rear stop/tailight, .
Click to expand...

I guess I'm so used to assuming that's the FIRST thing to check

nm9stheham said:
Ior somhow the left tailight and stop/brake light connections are shorted. That would cause crossfeed of the left turn signal energy over to the right side via the left tailight filament or the taillight lines. That would explain your first set of symptoms. I would start at the signal switch connector in the column and carefully check each connector all the way back to the rear valencefor swapped wires or a small stray wire strand or metal shaving between pins.
Click to expand...

This would cause much more that he describes. Interconnecting one turn wire with tail would result in

Park / tail or head switch on would light up the left rear lamp VERY bright, and if the signal switch was centered, it would ALSO light up the right side stop light

However, that is why I made the post above, individually feeding the rear wires, one at a time, while disconnected. This eliminates (separates) the "front" from the rear, and would show up such a problem
 
Michigan is not that far. Drive that baby over here and let's figure it out. I'll supply the beer, tools and garage. Minnesota and Michigan are practically neighbors!
 
Here is something else, when I unplug the connector inside of kick panel turn on the left turn signal and apply break the front left still acks the same meaning it goes full bright like a break signal woulld. So nothing has changed by unpluging the connector to the rear of the car. The reason I did this was to remove the rear from the picture. It's still the same as when the rear was connected. Now what.
 
RichardJ916 said:
Here is something else, when I unplug the connector inside of kick panel turn on the left turn signal and apply break the front left still acks the same meaning it goes full bright like a break signal woulld. So nothing has changed by unpluging the connector to the rear of the car. The reason I did this was to remove the rear from the picture. It's still the same as when the rear was connected. Now what.
Click to expand...

There's only so much left

A screwed up bulb

A screwed up front socket

Wiring melted / pinched together

Bad TS switch

I thought I posted this last night, but there were site connection problems for awhile.

There is only so much wire in that harness

It goes from the brake light switch, through a short section of harness to the TS column connector.

The wires going to the front lamps come back out the switch connector, through that short section of harness of "about a foot" (or a little more)

The front wires branch off I think right at the switch. Look at the switch connector. Doesn't it have TWO tans and TWO greens coming out of the connector?

One of each of those goes up to the dash lamps

The other two go out through the bulkhead connector.

There is no brake light power 'out in front' of the bulkhead. Thus it would seem the crossover is INSIDE the car.

Also, you can check the TS switch is / is not the problem by DISCONNECTING the TS switch

Do so and.........

apply the brake. You should get nothing anywhere. If something lights up, it's in the harness probably under the hood.

Look up the connections for the switch connector. You can jumper power into various pins and see if you get the proper result.

Look in your service manual section 8 at the wiring diagrams

Look at the connector in top drawing, notice it's pointed on one end. This tells you which end is which

With the connector UNhooked from the TS switch, and your rear harness kick panel connector UNhooked, you should have the following power:

Top wire, 18W (White) should have power when you apply the brake

4th wire down, 18R (Red) should have power from the TS flasher

5th wire down, no 18P (Pink) should have power from the hazard flasher

Hook a clip lead to a power source.

Clip it to 6th pin down, 18T (Tan) and ONLY the right front signal bulb should light, and the dash turn indicator if it works


Clip power to 7th from the top 18 LGN (Light GreeN) and ONLY the left front signal bulb and the left dash turn indicator should light
 

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