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It can be restored. There are carb shops that specialize in restorations. They will totally disassemble carb and re-plate. Expect about $3-400.

Do you have power brakes? A bad diaphragm may be causing your vacuum leak.

The old rusty motorcycle tank cleaning technique works well. Load tank with lengths of small chain and nuts/bolts. Put in about 2 gallons of gas. Shake the tank like crazy in all positions. Drain tank and inspect. Repeat as necessary. Rinse with clean gas.

I've heard stories of the lid breaking from backfires. I would research that. I have seen new linkage in reproduction but I don't remember where. Beautiful setup, I will follow your progress.

You can re-create the end ball with soldering.

It is the same with alternators and starters too. This is why alternators no longer have the output that their part number suggests.

These look all the same to me. The only thing that is important is the end taper.

I was taught that the quickest way to find dead center of a car is to drop a tool.

The problem you are having is more related to the variable rheostat on the sender. This is a problem area for all reproductions. As for shape- there is only one correct shape. You should check other sites as to what is correct.

I would try advancing the timing a little.

All good suggestions. Start by simply removing the air cleaner and starting up the engine. Let it run awhile, gasing it, using some fuel. Do you smell anything? Carb? Fuel pump?

This is frustrating. Another idea- what material is the float made of? Brass? Can the float have a small leak (they usually are) and filling with gas? I think gas will seep into areas that water can't. I would sink the float in a can of gas to test this.

Sometimes the tank itself doesn't ground well, that is why the factory added a ground strap on the fuel line itself bridging the rubber line. Is yours missing?

Sounds like it is not venting. You must confirm that it is venting by blowing air from the exit back into the tank.

I don't think it's a matter of height but more of an increase in plenum volume.

We need more info. There is no "rubber plug". There is a gas gauge sending unit with a rubber "O" ring and a filler tube with a rubber grommet.

Disconnect inlet side of pump and attach hose to bottle of gas. Spin motor. You should suck that gas empty rather quickly. If not, order that pump.

There is another fast idle adjustment also. Start with the thermostatic spring adj. in the middle of the range. In this position, where does the fast idle screw sit on the cam? I would locate it on the lowest step by bending the link.

Mopar vacuum advances are not hooked to manifold vacuum, they are attached to ported vacuum, above the carb butterfly. Disconnecting the vacuum line during timing is only a safety concern to eliminate any possibility of a false reading. Set timing with vacuum disconnected. Vacuum advance should...

Offer your younger friend a beer to do it.

You need to draw file the gasket surfaces so they are flat.

#3 is right, you don't need a "T" fitting, it won't be running that long. I have never seen a "weak" pump, either they work or they don't. Running the engine with the line dumping into a bucket will tell me if I have a "healthy" stream of fuel or not.

Pictures are so close-up that we can't see the carb.

I would think that a factory 4-bbl line would work as many of these engines came with a AFB. Maybe a new fitting at the fuel pump.

Positive side of coil is only 9v running.

Maybe "ignition", a source that is only "hot" in the ignition position.

The bog issue. The arm from the accelerator pump diaphragm needs to line up under the head of that large screw w/spring. This allows for adjustment. It looks like your arm is bent and not contacting. Or my old eyes aren't working.

5/16"

Carb may be flooding. Float level? Porous brass floats? Too much pressure? Vapor lock?

Put all SS lines and fittings on my '68 cuda because they will never oxidize- they will always look great. No pre-bent lines will be perfect, they all need a little "tweaking". So there will be times when I had to mildly adjust some bends. That was a little annoying but doable. In the end they...