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With headers I can immediately feel the increased RPM response. The only reason to not run headers is the budget.

Handing? Let me put it this way- no Mustang or Camaro ever beat me in a drag race.

I was there in 1968 and ordered my car personally as I worked at the dealership. P/S was not on the order list nor was A/C if you got the 383. This car arrived at the dealership April/May. It was manual steering. You would think that was a "late" 1968. I have since acquired another similar car...

The original BB pan is available.

These are spacers, not bushings. Since you have a mixture of non-factory parts, you will need to trim the spacers to allow proper belt alignment.

I think you are showing a 3/8 PU.

Hole enlargement needed. See Mancini.

What's wrong with using the Schumacher mount? The Schumacher kit uses "B" body insulators.

Pictures please.

I guess I don't know what a "budget build" is. I would recondition the stock rods with ARP bolts.

Are the intake and exhaust valves at the same height?

Most prefer cast aluminum covers as they seal better.

Should work assuming that the pump's hose threads are the same.

Part# DS743 looks correct. Tube for 'A' body BB are different as rear motor mounts have been cut off so dipstick tube mounting is different from standard BB. If you have an original block then this is the correct tube.

Part of your problem is that carb was not a Mopar. You also may have the wrong cable bracket (can't see it in picture).

I loved this cam. A little lopey , rowdy yes. I could feel it kick in at about 3K. Used to manual shift the TQ to keep the RPMs up, then when you punched it, it would come alive!

Decking a block is not to achieve more compression, that is done with the proper pistons. The purpose of decking is to "square" the block, improving the gasket surface and insuring it is parallel to the crank making each cylinder more even. Decking a "B" block may erase away the number pad.

Sorry, but you will not meet your 400HP goal with factory "A" body manifolds. Originally they took a 330HP 383 motor and put those manifolds on it for "A" bodies and it knocked it down to 290HP. With what those manifolds are bringing, you can buy headers. Good stock heads can work if the...

You should carefully consider what performance you expect from this engine. Is this just a stock rebuild, or are we expecting a higher level of performance? This will determine what parts go to the shop and what level of machine work. The performance expected will determine what parts will be...

Exhaust manifolds for BB 'cuds's are for "low decks". 440's are "tall deck".

I own an original 383 cuda 1968. With homemade motor mounts it is hard to advise you but your pass. side seems too close.

If I recall correctly, that hole is somewhat larger than the bolt. I assumed that was to allow some flexibility on install. Make sure that bolt has a flat washer on it to capture the mount. Good luck. Update- car now runs, you're next.

I have messed up too many balancers. Buy the correct installer. I think I have only used it twice, but I don't mess them up any longer.

Prof. is right- additional paper goes toward aluminum. RTV in corners, some around ports is OK.

Motorhome trannies are very different in the tail piece, not easily put into a car. I would go with the builder. Then I would know what's in the motor and it will run. At this point you only have peoples stories.

At least in '67 and '68 the engine is the same from the "B" and "C" bodies. Rated at 330hp in a "B" body but 290 in a "A" body. Same engine, cam same everything.

Did you follow proper break-in procedure?

I own an original '68 cuda, 383, 4-sp, P/S car and I love it. If I was to "build" a '68 cuda, I would definitely go small block. I like the idea of a sbm 426 with Tremic.

You probably have fuel problem. You have a dual plane manifold-right? They seperate right from left, odd/even.

I think you have found the one website where members cannot leave anything stock.