Search results for query: *

800 for a hemi?? Wow,,guess they starting at 4000 here in norway. @trebor75 have you measured how far down in the holes the pistons are at tdc? I think you should have milled the heads more

yeah,thats a great one, me 2 want that one, but I thought(spell?) of a stripe along the body, horisontaly... to break up the body a little? maybe... ? 2 winters! you have been working hard!! my progress slowed way down when the kids began to pop out of my better half about 7 years ago... I keep...

what?? did it last only 40 yrs? I would for sure put a claim to get it on warranty! new core would be like new! nice eng.room btw!

How long time did it take you from start to end? Looking gooood! I would have added some stripes or something to that body and color

Whats that techumseh engine in the foot area for? Cruise control or servo assist? Some spesial option I guess... :finga: Looking lik great project!! Good luck

About the rear, you have to change the steel plate, I have not done it, but there is one fella in here at least that has swapped front and back from a 74 down to a 70. Alot of work.

Im sure its just me missing it, but I think you need a bypass-hose between the thermostat and radiator, so that the water will sirculate in the engine when there is no need to run through the radiator... As it looks like now, the flow stops when the thermostat is closed?

well, I dont know about that:D if I sum up my parts, I still far from the total:protest:

Guess it will work... Depends on the camshaft also(cyl pressure) But i think a closed chamber may handle more CR than open chamber due to better mixing of gas and a smaller area with trapped gas making it easier to have control over pre ignition. Also the squich area cools the gas some when...

Good feeling:-) turned out better than new!

How is the weight? Are they close to std? Or did you balance the thing back in the days? :-) There were a good piston guide in one of the latest mopar muscle magz, discribing the weak thing with hyperaut. Pistons. Anybody? Or do I have to visit the pipermine?

Any spesial reason you use those old forgings? If we dont care about money i bet you free up some horses with a newer design piston.... The "crack" looks like a casting issue to mee... You may fill it back up with soot to cover it, or take the dremel and try to dig into it a little? Maybe...

If you gonna patch those steps, I would have used thin plate ss and tig welded with ss rod. Then its wery wery little metal (maybe just a mm beside the weld on the chromed plate) that would be prone to rust without threatment of one kind??

Great to have a income you may count on! Happy for you. I may smell motivation in this thread now;-) Hows wheather? Reading in the news you guys have got even more snow? Over here, everything is raining away....

Part 2 please:-)

Must say this is a funny thread to follow;-) im also is jalous(?) at your skills. Good luck with this nice mopar:-)

Thats pretty impressive! :cheers:

I think this was some new information!? Guess Dan and Kevin is studying their library night and day by now:D

I like your work! keep it up! your gonna get a supernice car:-) BR

a picture at least!? you have to show us Dukes restingplace:) BR from overseas

Remember to check the spigot bearing in the crank! You may get vibrations then if its missing... Nice car! Hope you soon get a new transmission and may (ab)use it:-) best wishes

Ulf has to open a paypal account and then everybody can donate sponsor money to get the car overseas sometime in the future! I think he Owe you that one since he put his build up here on fabo?? I would guesstimate shippingcosts to about $2000 one way...

Sorry for my bad english;-) what i mean with engine break is that when you select low(1) or reverse, the reverse band is engaged. This is locking the sprag or free-wheel in the trans. This will cause the engine to "hang" in the gear if you let of the gas after reving it in 1. This will not...

Nope,thats the high-band for 3. You need to drop the pan to adjust the reverse band. One easy way to check if this is the issue, is to check if the motor brakes in 1st. Take it for a spin, set the shifter in low/1, and rev it then let of the pedal, and if the engine drops to idle, the low...

congrats! you got a very nice car! only thing left is to use it:-)

yeah, the video was nice:-) guess you long for the next! good heads and camshaft really wake up a 360! hmm...ok,good luck on the exhaust routing next time! maybe you can do something with the motor mounts to make it fit better?! hmmm..wish my wife was that deep into my hobby...its no interest...

Hi! nice car! wish I had your engine combo:-) maybe its been said before, but doesnt the w2-heads have the ports further up than the j-heads? thus giving you the headder issue? keep on working, and take care of your better half!

Hi! nice project! but..I see your propotionig(?) valve for the brakes are mounted on the front brakes? I think (not sure) its best to mount them on the front brake line that goes to the rear brakes! this way you get full pressure to the front brakes, and reduce the pressure on the rear drums. I...

nice project! :-) about the heat issue... did mopar deliver different sizes on the water pump pulley? if the water pumpe spins too slow, it will also cause overheat problems? but then the problem will be only idle and cruise,and not on the highway I think... I dont remember vlearly, but think...

thats a clean body in nice shape! keep on! br from overseas!